alchemize wrote:Gary, Culligan also quoted me a UV system for only another 2 grand
That I need to do more research on...
Yes you do need to do more research. I sell UV lights, and I have sold hundreds over the years and some rather large ones, none have come close to $2K.
alchemize wrote:I like the premise of a twin-tank softener as yes, I do run laundry at night, or shower late, or have kiddies get up and go pee. And I like the idea of lower salt usage, and "never running out". I recognize I'm paying a premium but after the initial quote from Culligan it seems like quite a bargain! Is there ongoing added expense other than the up-front? Won't some of that be recovered by lower salt or potassium chloride usage?
Then I suggest you check out my twin tank models; you'll love the prices. They use Fleck control valves with the exception of a dual Clack (not on my web site) which has many advantages over Fleck or Kinetico twins. And with the Clack I can go upflow or downflow but there is no advantage to upflow if the softener is correctly sized. Again, no, there is no salt savings using a twin tank type softener.
Also, Culligan uses a Fleck valve on their twin tank softeners. With most twin tank type softeners, you get water through only one tank at a time and when one tank is being regenerated, you share its water flow to drain with your shower or any other water use in the house. The Clack I mention and a model of Kinetico, gives you water through both tanks at once until one is regenerated.
To use a regular twin, both tanks must be the correct size to provide the needed SFR gpm.
As to "never running out", a correctly sized two tank type softener rarely to never runs out of capacity before regeneration; especially a Clack WS-1 with its variable reserve feature. Also, a correctly sized softener regenerates once every 8 nights, so water use would have to be between 2 AM and 3:15 AM that night to cause any problem.
alchemize wrote:As far as the valve, I probably described it wrong. There is plumbing already in place ready to be connected to a softener, one heads to the water heater and one heads to the cold water supply, with connectors and cut-off valves already installed. Then there is piping that by-passes that - leading outside and to the barn. Does that make sense?
I've seen thousands of old installations so yes, I understand but... you cut out back to the inlet and outlet lines and replumb to the new by pass valve. The line to the barn has to tee off the inlet line to the softener.
alchemize wrote:Thanks so much for your feedback, I love learning these kinds things.
You're welcome. For more free no obligation information click the WWW button below.
I read all 28 pages and found a lot of useful information. I came out to the conclusion that the best water softener to get is either one with a Fleck or Clack WS-1 valve. I dont know much about my water quality but from the reports HERE I have about 18 GPG of hardness. This will be for a 4 people 2-story home with 3 1/2 bathrooms. I searched around and the best price I found for the Fleck 7000SE 48k on demand softener is about 100$ cheaper than the Clack WS-1 48k version. Which one should I go with? Any suggestions?
