Help! Rainsoft no longer working! :(

Yes, you're right. The repair cost may not be worth it. I'm guessing the repair will cost about $400 at least.

I thought it over and I will be looking into the Clack WS-1. I found this really really great site too which recommends it, http://qualitywaterassociates.com/ Wink

So, if I already have a resin tank and a brine tank, would it be OK for me to just purchase the control valve? Or will I need the entire system?

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harrorainsoft wrote:

So, if I already have a resin tank and a brine tank, would it be OK for me to just purchase the control valve? Or will I need the entire system?

Before you spend money on Clak consider the Fleck 2510 SE.
It is a metered valve with digital controls and it has a long proven track record.

Both are available to me, but I prefer the Fleck for myself and my customers. http://h2oman.us Cool

Another advantage to installing the Fleck 2510SE is that it is a direct bolt-on replacement.
No plumbing required ~ you can use your existing resin tank, brine tank and drain line.

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Ok, I will look into the Fleck as well. Great site by the way. Love the white text on white background trick. Smile

Quesiton about the Fleck. If it stopped working for some reason, would it be easy to fix myself? Are the parts readily available at lowes or home depot?

Also, what is the warranty on either of these systems? The rainsoft Q2 has been running since '92 when the original owners purchased it. Can I expect the same from either of these systems?

Greatly appreciate all the help and advice!

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Ooops! for some reason I was thinking about the Gold series and not the Q.

Check your email

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harrorainsoft wrote:

Quesiton about the Fleck. If it stopped working for some reason, would it be easy to fix myself? Are the parts readily available at lowes or home depot?

All Fleck control valves except the Proflo have/require 1-3 special Fleck tools used to remove and install the 5-6 seals and 4-5 spacers between them (varies with the model of valve and IIRC the 2510 has the largest number).

Those parts are in a hole in the valve body from roughly 1.25" to 2.5" ID. The 1/4" to 3/8" thick spacers barely fit that hole and the seals are eventually compressed by an end cap and steel plate with 2-3 bolts.

In many cases, after a few years of being compressed, the seals grow fast/stick to the inside diameter of the hole. And when you attempt to take them out, you end up tearing them out in pieces. Then to get the spacer out, you must clean any rust build up and all the pieces of seal or the spacer will not come out. When you get the spacer out, then you do the next seal, clean out the rust if any and the stuck on pieces of seal and then you take the next spacer out. You repeat that process 4-6 times.

The spacers are roughly 1/4" - 3/8" thick and are barely smaller OD than the ID of the hole. The hole is from 4" to roughly 6" deep and being 1.5" to 2.5" wide (ID), tell me with only one index finger able to get in the hole in the spacer (roughly 3/4" to 1" ID) how you would get the seals and spacers out of it without special tools?

Without the special tools, you buy them or call a local dealer for service or send the valve to an online dealer that rebuilds them. I've only heard of 3-4 guys that have been able to replace the seals and spacers in a 5600 valve without the special tools. No one but h20 has said they rebuild 2510s without the special tools....

No one sells Autotrol, Clack, Erie or Fleck parts except water treatment dealers.

harrorainsoft wrote:

Also, what is the warranty on either of these systems?

Non prorated 5 years on Clack and Fleck.

harrorainsoft wrote:

Greatly appreciate all the help and advice!

You're welcome.

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Not this again...
Well, allow me to retort!

Fact: Special tools are available from Fleck, ALL control valves on the market have special tools available.

Fact: You do not need special tools to replace the piston, seals and spacers on a Fleck 2510.

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Gary Slusser wrote:

No one sells Autotrol, Clack, Erie or Fleck parts except water treatment dealers.

In only the time it took to Google it...

click here for Fleck parts & service literature (this place rents the special tools for those who need them)

click here for Autotrol parts & service literature

click here for Erie parts & service literature

harrorainsoft,

Since more Fleck control valves have been put in service (over the last 50 years or so) than ALL OTHER BRANDS COMBINED there always seems to be someone everywhere who services and sells parts for Fleck. Just about as convenient as if parts were at the Home Depot but you'd be dealing with someone who knows what the parts do... although they won't have that cute orange apron on.

I have repaired more than 10 Fleck 5600 control valves with my own hands and without the special tools. No trick to it other than having the necessary mechanical skill.

Those who can, do. Those who can't, use special tools or pay a professional to do the job for them.

With or without special tools no repair has ever been made by a tech reaching through the phone :wink:

The warranty on Fleck and Clack control valves is a five year parts only warranty if bought long distance and YOU do the labor (if you can). The warranty is only from the original seller you bought the control valve from. You can not deal directly with the manufacturer. If you buy from a local water treatment professional more than likely the warranty will be parts & labor since local water treatment professionals tend to service what they sell.

It only costs you time to shop around BEFORE you buy. It costs you money and aggravation if you buy the wrong thing from the wrong source.

The more information you have the more informed a choice you can make. Idea

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Andrew Cross or Gross, the owner of softenerparts.com is a water treatment dealer.

When you repaired those more than 10 5600 valves.... so you are saying you replaced the seals and spacers without the Fleck special seals and spacer tools, I'd have to see it, I've replaced hundreds of them and the seals and spacers in 1500 and 25x0s.

Any dealer or their supplier can honor a warranty claim.

Dealers that offer a parts and labor warranty are very few and far between and labor is only the first year. To be able to do that, they overcharge ALL their customers for the few that will need any warranty work.

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Gary Slusser wrote:

When you repaired those more than 10 5600 valves.... so you are saying you replaced the seals and spacers without the Fleck special seals and spacer tools, I'd have to see it, I've replaced hundreds of them and the seals and spacers in 1500 and 25x0s.

Regardless of how many 5600s you have repaired over how many years you need to use the special tool and I don't.

I'm sure there are many skilled water treatment professionals out there that disassemble and reassemble Fleck valves without the special tools and don't think twice about it. The gentleman who showed me how didn't own the special tool and he's been repairing Fleck valves for 30 years.

I said in my post "I have repaired more than 10 Fleck 5600 control valves with my own hands and without the special tools. No trick to it other than having the necessary mechanical skill".

So, for clarification, I am saying that "I replaced the seals and spacers without the Fleck special seals and spacer tools".

Don't blame me because you can't do it without the special tool.

Special tools are designed to make a difficult job easier for the average parts swapper. Skilled technicians (in many fields) rarely use special tools as they have a higher level of skill and have mastered the task.

Your refusal to believe that I and H2O_MAN can do that without using the special tool is amusing but perhaps, with enough practice and honing of your mechanical skill, someday you may be able to do it also. Sorry, I forgot you don't provide service you just sell.

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justalurker wrote:

So, for clarification, I am saying that "I replaced the seals and spacers without the Fleck special seals and spacer tools".

Don't blame me because you can't do it without the special tool.

Special tools are designed to make a difficult job easier for the average parts swapper. Skilled technicians (in many fields) rarely use special tools as they have a higher level of skill and have mastered the task.

Your refusal to believe that I and H2O_MAN can do that without using the special tool is amusing but perhaps, with enough practice and honing of your mechanical skill, someday you may be able to do it also.

Sorry, I forgot you don't provide service you just sell.

Damn straight Skippy!

I've done the job in the field with just a screw driver and my own two hands.
The dual piston 3900 was the biggest challenge so far, but I got it done and it is functioning 100%.

People that leave the installation/service arena to just sell quickly forget what it is like in the field.

Skills: Use them or loose them.

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Can someone here fleck my special tool?

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Thanks for all the info and help guys!

So, the 2510SE control valve is a direct bolt on replacement for my Q2. What about the Clack?

And how much do I save if I re-use my existing resin tank, brine tank and drain line?

And I don't see a drain line anywhere on my system. Shocked

I've taken pictures, but I have no idea how to upload them on here. Embarrassed

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Yes Clack, Erie and Autotrol screw into the tank the same as Fleck does; they are all industry standard.

How much you save depends on who you buy it from but... I used to replace a lot of control valves and resin rebuilding old softeners. I even had adapters to swap controls on all of Ecowater made big box store brands; GE, Kenmore, etc. until I started selling softeners online.

Now, compared to the price of a new softener purchased online, it costs between 65-85% of a new softener with the same control valve and it is not worth the effort it takes to rebuild one.

If you're comparing buying the control valve online to the price of a new softener from a local dealer, man the "savings" look great. But if you are going to replace your own control valve and maybe resin, you can install your own softener and don't need the local dealer and their high prices so the only comparison is online to online.

Who you buy from includes online dealers, not just comparing local to an online dealer. Get the price for a 2510SE and give me a call for comparisons for a Clack WS-1 and a new correctly sized softener using one.

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harrorainsoft wrote:

And how much do I save if I re-use my existing resin tank, brine tank and drain line?

Email sent ~ Cool

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Justalurker,

I've seen many posts where Gary claims you bought a Clack WS-1.
I recall reading you admitting to it, but all you ever say is that it's only good for a doorstop.
You never mention why it was no good. Did it break? Did not soften water correctly? Hard to maintain? Loud?

I'm very interested as to why you dislike the Clack WS-1 so much, and not interested in why you praise Fleck so much (as there are tons of posts about that).

And, what are you using now for your water softener?

The reason I'm asking is because you're an end customer like I am, but you have a passion for water softeners. And I've read many of your posts and admire your passion for water softeners and giving advice to others.

Thanks.

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harrorainsoft wrote:

You never mention why it was no good. Did it break? Did not soften water correctly? Hard to maintain? Loud?

harrorainsoft,

I'd gladly answer your questions in detail but it would result in another personal attack on me, my wife, my family, and my taste in music :wink:. Since the moderators on this forum don't see fit to moderate and keep the posts civil I'll simply say this...

I paid a lot of money and bought a Braswell softener from a respected local dealer and earned my bachelors degree in water treatment purchasing and got a real education in how not to buy water treatment equipment.

Nine years later I bought a Clack WS1 softener from you know who and received my doctorate in how not to buy water treatment equipment.

In both instances neither the hardware or the sellers performed as was promised BEFORE the money changed hands.

I NEVER said that the Clack is only good for a doorstop. I said "my Clack works perfectly as a doorstop". Actually, it props the shed door open and is a loaner I offer to people in the area. I prefer it not to be in service at my house unless I've installed it temporarily to experiment on it. I own a Clack WS1 and lived with it over a considerable period of time. I base my opinion on the Clack's performance(?) in my system.

I currently own three unique softener setups with a total of five different control valves. Rather than blindly accept what salesman say I prefer to know and see for myself. It is amusing how simple and straightforward softener control valves are and how easy they are to repair. It's really amusing how much better they could be. It is interesting how differently different control valve designs can act in service versus what their literature, sales drivel, and gossip portends.

Some lessons are best learned by living the experience and developing a taste for Alka Seltzer.

Whatever you decide you'll learn a lot.

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justalurker wrote:

Whatever you decide you'll learn a lot.

Thanks for your response.

I agree, and before I strolled upon this forum I thought that either repairing my broken rainsoft or deciding on a new one would be easy. Apparently, I was dead wrong. Razz

I've been trying to get a quote from local "professionals" before making a final decision, but they are hard to contact. I guess they don't like picking up the phone. And I'm no longer in a rush, as I'll be on a business trip for the next few weeks.

So justalurker, if you were to recommend a water softener of your choice, which would you recommend?

Also, I believe that my water softener is welded to the copper piping that it is attached to. But I'm not sure. If it is, then I will have no choice but to have someone install the system for me.

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harrorainsoft wrote:

I've been trying to get a quote from local "professionals" before making a final decision, but they are hard to contact.

If you are fortunate to have knowledgeable local water treatment pros then I suspect they are very busy and worth chasing down.

harrorainsoft wrote:

So justalurker, if you were to recommend a water softener of your choice, which would you recommend?

I'll take the Fleck, I mean the fifth on that question.

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Harrorainsoft, you asked for specific detailed answers and got a runaround vague change the subject nothing is my fault reply.

Caution, you may miss the passion about fulfilling his threat to me on or about Aug 15 2005 to prevent me from making any and all online sales that he could.

Also, because of his hidden agenda against me, he gives a lot of bad advice to people asking about softeners.

p.s. require current date pictures of those control valves and/or softeners he claims having set up at his house. We can compare them to pics I have of his softener in his garage.

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Gary Slusser wrote:

Harrorainsoft, you asked for specific detailed answers and got a runaround vague change the subject nothing is my fault reply.

Caution, you may miss the passion about fulfilling his threat to me on or about Aug 15 2005 to prevent me from making any and all online sales that he could.

Also, because of his hidden agenda against me, he gives a lot of bad advice to people asking about softeners.

Harrorainsoft,

Sez him Rolling Eyes

I rest my case.

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Help! Rainsoft no longer working! :(

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