@ossobuco,
I'll add that benighted me sped through Milano to get to Ivrea, famed for the piazza orange hurling fights, me with the piazza history bug. It was approaching the end of the trip and I was tired and crabby and Ivrea seemed graffiti covered and inhospitable and I got out of there the next day with zilch exploring, unlike my usual way. Well, not zilch, but not much past checking the key piazzas. I know of course, in the light of day, that my short time there can't be taken as representative. I even have six degrees types of connections to Ivrea. What I'll remember most is not my own time there, but a photo in a bell'italia magazine of one of the piazzas totally inundated in the remnants of thrown oranges, orange pulp, and juice.
At the time, I had thought it might have been better if the LA gangs, Crips and Bloods, back in the beginnings of their formation, had used the oranges from the then plentiful orange orchards... instead of taking up arms.