@georgeob1,
georgeob1 wrote:
I had the feeling the city center had been modelled on Haeusmann's Paris of the 1870's, though I haven't researched the matter and don't know that for sure.
That's right.. Bucharest was nicknamed "Little Paris" way back when.
georgeob1 wrote:If you take the trouble to look for them, you can still see a few apartment relics of East Germany in present day Berlin - sloppy simple geometrical concrete construction, low ceilings, poor fixtures and devoid of architectural interest or embellishment.
"Plattenbau". Identical looking pre-fab, cheap apartment blocks, often endless expanses of it - and they can still be found all across the former Eastern Bloc.
I remember the first time I was at Budapest's Flórián tér; I think it was a year before the end of communism, and our mom had dragged us out there by tram and metro for the bit of Roman archaeology that's there. I was more impressed by the view around. Just this endless, massive circle of identical, uniformly grey, square-boxed towerblocks, in the rain, traffic rushing through the middle. I'm no small-town boy but I thought it was terrifying. It seemed to symbolize the oppressive harshness of life under communism. It looks
a little better now that everything's gotten a lick of some colourful paint, and there's a lot more green.
But the role of this Plattenbau is a little more complicated than their ugliness would suggest to visitors. At the time they were built, apartments in these "lakótelepek", as we call them here, were quite sought after. Not just because the shortages that marked life in Eastern Europe in general, but because they were genuinely a step up from the houses many people had been living in before. Water, gas, electricity, bathrooms, kitchens - they were more modern and better equipped than what the masses were used to, especially in the villages.
Not all *that* different, in that sense, from the identikit, cheap high-rise developments that went up in suburbs across Western-Europe in the 50s/60s (and the US had its own "projects," right?) -- a good few of which have by now been torn down (in London, Amsterdam, etc), and many of which now are among the most notorious parts of towns (eg in the French banlieues) -- but which back then were a real step up and a source of pride for the residents who'd moved there from slum-like working class neighbourhoods.
It's always striking to me when I see photos of West-European cities in the 50s/60s, how "East-European" they looked. The modernist brutalism of the new suburbs. The neglect of the inner cities. The difference was that they'd kept evolving; Budapest etc still looked that way in the 80s.
The sheer scope of how many of them were built all across Eastern Europe was something else though. And to me, the "lakótelepek" still kind of all look the same, though not as viscerally oppressive as they used to seem. But apparently there's quite the hierarchy among them here in Budapest. Some of the high-rise ones in outer neighbourhoods (including one nicknamed "Havanna") are somewhat notorious. Others, especially low-rise ones and closer to downtown, are pretty popular.
The communist track record on architecture really is a bit of a mixed mess. Often the pre-war neighbourhoods were left to rot away while the regimes focused exclusively on building those massive new districts full of towerblocks, supposed symbols of the socialist 'New Man'. There were some excuses for that - the massive destruction of WW2, the acute shortage of housing, the financial efficiency of piling up prefab towerblocks compared with renovating low-rise, fin-de-siecle buildings. But it wasn't all necessity, it was ideology too, and so many once-grand neighbourhoods fell apart in a sorry state of neglect even four decades later, when WW2 really wasn't much of an excuse anymore. Ceausescu's deliberate mass destruction of communities stands out as a crime. And yet, there was a flip side too. You see photos of Polish cities after WW2 ... just complete and utter destruction. Hardly a building left standing upright. And an impressive amount of that was painstakingly rebuilt, reconstructed, restaurated. I've seen a couple of books with before-and-after photos, and - credit where it's due. Plus, some (though not much) of the modern stuff, like the Moscow metro, was impressive in its own right. Then again, that's all offset by the prestigious but tasteless Stalinist kitsch of eg East Berlin's Karl Marx Allee or Warsaw's "wedding cake" Palace of Culture and Science, an unwanted present from the Soviet "comrades"... they surrounded it with shiny new skyscrapers now, to try to hide it a bit.
OK, so, um... Trump, right. Trump and relevant contemporary events...