very direct Tokay

What is our question?

What does it mean? Especially "direct".
I need confirmation, even if my guess was right.

Tokaj (or Tokay) wine is about 14% alcohol, which is slightly more alcoholic than many table wines but less alcoholic than many dessert wines. Someone can get drunk quickly on Tokaj about as easily as one can get drunk on any other kind of wine, but because Tokaj is a sweet dessert wine I wouldn't recommend it.

Journalists and other people who write about wine are notorious for using far-fetched metaphorical descriptions, for example characterising wines as "cheeky", "shy", and so on. If someone called a wine "direct" I'd assume he meant something on the lines of "unsubtle", "straightforward", "in-your-face" or whatever.