Okay, here goes....
My Fantastic Journey to Peru and Ecuador for 15 Days In May 2003
Where to begin: but the greatest difficulty will be trying to keep this nice and short, because there are so many good experiences to share.
Here are the highlights of my journey:
Our tour group arrived in Lima on May 1, and we were met by our trip leader/tour guide, Corina Duran. We checked into our hotel, the Sonesta Posadas del Inca, at about midnight, for two nights. Corina was raised on a farm not far from Cuzco, and during our stay in Cuzco, she introduced us to her husband and son. She attended the university in Cuzco to become a tour guide, and she is asked by the university to lecture students on a regular basis. She has plans to get a graduate degree in Lima, and teach at the university in Cuzco when she says she no longer has "butterflies" in the pit of her stomach when she leads tour groups. She is a fantastic tour guide and trip leader. We were very lucky to have been in her group to share the fifteen days in Peru and Ecuador.
The highlights in Lima during our two days were our visit to the private archaeology museum, Museo Marco, where displays of old artifacts from the old cultures of Vicus, Mochica, Nzca, Lambayeque, and Chimu are prominent. Many gold pieces dated before the time of Christ, and erotica. The San Francisco Cathedral and crypt where bones are segregated by parts, and one circular pit with skulls and bones. Our dinner was at the la Rosa Nautica seafood restaurant on the pier where we had an excellent four course seafood dinner.
We flew to the Inca Capital City of Cuzco on May 2, checked into the Novotel Hotel, once a private residence, and now converted into a first class hotel, and located less than half a mile from the main square. Cuzco is located south-east from Lima, and sits 10,909 feet above sea level. On some of our excursions outside the main city, we were above 12,500 feet above sea level. Some of us took Diamox and drank coca tea to lessen the effects of high altitude. The Inca creation dates from 1,200 BC, and many of the original building blocks still stand. The one significant architectural skill the Incas had was their ability to build rock structures that matched perfectly from one stone to the next. Some stones on buildings have seventeen corners, and they all have perfectly matched connecting stones whether they are straight or curved - there are no spaces between the stones. Cuzco is named from the quechua voice "Q'osqo" which means the World Navel.
We spent four nights in this delightful Inca town to observe the people, the many squares, cathedrals, the ruins, and the surrounding high and low lands. We walked between narrow Inca walls and buildings, up and down steps during the day and night, visited some cathedrals and a school, and enjoyed lunch with a family of Cuzco. We were treated to two cultural shows with music and dancing while enjoying our dinner for our four night stay. The Cuzco Cathedral was built over the Quiswar Cuncha or Wiracocha Inca's Palace. The walls have an inclination of 13 degrees, the same as the inclination of the earth's axis, so earthquakes have had very little effect on these structures. Plugs in the walls coincide with astrological dates and times. The cathedral has a collection of over 400 paintings, one of which is attributed to Van Dock. The most impressive of cathedral custody is the 22 kg of gold, 331 precious pearls, 221 emeralds, 263 diamonds, 89 Amethysts, 62 rubies, 43 topazes, and 5 sapphires. The oldest street in Cuzco is named "Hatun Ramiyoc Street" - Big Stone Street. Most of the city's Inca ruins are in the Pumacurco district where we spent most of our four days. :wink:
We visited the Great Sacsayhauman Fortress on the outskirts of Cuzco, which is claimed to have protected the Inca capital from enemies. Some stones are 20 feet high and 10 feet wide and weight over 500 tons. These gigantic rocks are fitted so perfectly together that a knife blade cannot penetrate the space between them.
We visited a food market in Cuzco where vegetables, fruits, spices, fish and meats are sold. They have corn so big, one-forth of one ear is equal to one whole we are most familiar with. They have many tropical fruits, and their papayas are as big as melons. It's a fun and fascinating place to visit.
On May 4, we boarded a bus for Urubamba, about half way to our destination, where we boarded the train for Machu Picchu, which means "Old Mountain." Machu Picchu was founded by Hiram Bingham, an American explorer and professor of History, who revealed the Sacred Lost City Machu Picchu to the world in 1911. Sponsored by Yale University and the National Geographic Society, Bingham returned the following year to direct the excavations and investigations of Machu Picchu. No treasures of gold objects were found, but the remains of 150 female and 23 males were found on Machu Picchu.
It is now believed that the Inca City of Machu Picchu housed an exclusive class of noblemen and the privileged divided into two big areas; the agricultural sector of terraces and the urban. The area is surrounded by orchids, finches, and lizards. The stone walkways constructed by the Incas are still used by hikers into Machu Picchu. They were built to control the vegetation from overtaking the access roads on the mountain sides. We were able to hike a part of the Inca Trail for one of the best views of Machu Picchu. The clouds were cooperative, and they parted to let the sun shine on the Lost City for a few moments for our picture taking. It was awesome.
Some of the main constructions on Machu Picchu are the City Entrance Gate, Temple of the Sun, Nusta Palace, the Serpent's Window, the Main Bath, the Sacred Plaza, Temple of the Three Windows, the Principal Temple, the Sacristy, the Southern Cross, the Intihuatana (a step-like sculpture), the Condor Temple (actually shaped like a condor), Temple of the Moon, the Three Doorways, and the Royal Palace. The Sacred Rock is formed like the mountain behind it. We spent most of the afternoon until five PM on Machu Picchu before we took our bus back to our hotel. On May 5, we departed the hotel about 7:30 AM to return to Machu Picchu before the crowds arrived for the day. All eleven in our group opted for the hike on the Inca Trail, but only five of us made it to the top. *a-hum. At 8,000 feet, it's not the easiest climb in the world.
On our return trip to Cuzco, we stopped at Ollantay Tambo, another Inca archaeological ruin between Machu Picchu and Cuzco. There is a beauty fountain carved in a block of stone, named Nusta Bath.
Early the following morning, we traveled to Corao, a farm village where we visit a kindergarten. The young children, all under five years old, were waiting for their teacher to appear, standing by the road side. Our tour guide, Corina, instructed the children to move to the school grounds, so we followed. David, in our group, speaks fluent Spanish, so he started to talk with the children, and led them in song and clapping of hands. Bob had a recorder, so he recorded the children singing, and played it back to them. It was the first time they heard their own voices. The teacher finally appeared just before 9:30 AM, and led the children into the class room. We passed out pens to the children, and said our goodbyes. It was a very special morning. We drove a short distance to Pte Pisac, another Inca archaeological site located on the surrounding hills. The view of the valley below is breathtaking. After a short hike, we take our bus down to the town of Pisac for some shopping in the open market place. I bought two small books, "Photografic Guide To Cusco And Machupicchu," and "The Essential Guide, The Lost City, Machu Picchu." I also bought a Inca designed dish for .49c - last of the big spenders.
On May 7, we flew to Guayaquil, Ecuador, with a stop over in Lima. We were treated to a quick city tour of Guayaquil by our local guide, Roberto. We visit a flower market where a bouquet of arranged flowers cost less than $10. Before checking into the Continental Hotel across the street from a park and cathedral, we visit the park to look at land iguanas. After our check-in at the hotel, we went on a stroll to the new waterfront park before dinner. It's a beautiful park and promenade, completed only two years ago. Many people were enjoying themselves on the waterfront, watching plants flow to the right on the river. We were told that after sunset, the plants will be flowing to the left. We walk back to our hotel just before sunset, and prepare for dinner at the hotel. Four of us decide to return to the waterfront for another stroll for a little over one hour, and we walk from one end of the waterfront to the other. The cool breeze feels good, and invigorates our energy for our brisk walk back to our hotel.
The next morning, we got our wake-up call at 6:45 AM to prepare for our 9:45 AM, 1.5 hour flight to San Cristobal Island, the Galapagos. We are given first class seats on the AeroGal airplane, for my very first time. This is good karma for all of us in our group. This journey to the Galapagos Islands is going to be very special - I could just feel it in my bones.
The Galapagos Islands is where Charles Darwin performed his research, arriving on the islands in 1835 on the British ship the HMS Beagle, that resulted in his book, "The Origin of Species." The Galapagos Islands were declared a national park in 1936. All visitors to the Galapagos Islands must pay a $100 fee, and must be guided in the parks by a certified Naturalist. Our Naturalist-Guide was Juan, a big, burly, black man with a ready smile, born on the island, and living with his mother. There are 301 Naturalists and 98 boats that ply the Galapagos Island waters - current as of May 2003.
The giant Galapagos tortoises gave the islands their name due to their similarity to carapaces to a British riding saddle called "Galapogo" in Spanish.
We embark on the motor craft the Millenium, one of the largest and newest yachts for 16 maximum passengers. We are introduced to the boat staff, 8 staff for 11 passengers, plus our Naturalist and our tour leader. That's ten staff for eleven passengers - a pretty high ratio on any cruise. We stay seven nights on the Millenium, and visit Espanola, Santa Cruz (Santa Rosa), Rabida, Bartolome, Santiago Island (James Bay), Santa Cruz (Black Turtle Cove), Plaza Island, Santa Fe, and Kicker Rock (our last cruise tour without landing before returning to San Cristobal for our flight back to Guayaquil).
Juan informs us that he will give a daily orientation at 6:30 PM every evening before dinner to outline the itinerary for the following day's activities. Some will be dry landings, and some will be wet landings. We will have many opportunities to snorkel or just stay on the boat and rest.
Our first tour is to the Galapagos Park Information Center on Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, where we are introduced to the many geological landscapes, the flora and fauna, of the Galapagos. There are 17 varieties of finches, the shapes of their beaks influenced by the environment. Some are short and stubby, while others are long and sharp, and everything in between. The islands are the perfect environment to show the effects of evolution on the flora and fauna. The geological makeup of each island is different; from sandy to lava laden, from few vegetation to forests, from cactus to flowers, and from few fauna to many. What is striking about the Galapagos fauna is our ability to approach them to take close-up pictures - and I?'m talking inches. Where else on this planet can one approach birds without them flying off? It's an amazing place for photography.
We head directly south to Espanola Island, a five hour trip on our boat from San Cristobal. Our sightings today includes sea lions, sea iguanas, lizards, mockingbirds, masked boobies, albatross, blue footed boobies, Galapagos hawks, a heron, and the 'famous' blow hole. We cruise to the east side of Espanola to Gardner Bay for a wet landing and snorkeling. I tried to take some pictures of fishes, but the water looked too murky.
On May 10, we arrived at Puerto Ayora of Santa Cruz Island. We ride a bus to Santa Rosa to see some craters where the land had collapsed. We see passion fruits, doves, and tortoise, and also visit the lava tunnel. After lunch, we visit the Darwin Research Center where 100 scientists continue their research. We saw the incubation of turtle eggs, small and very large tortoise. Some live 200 years - we were told. I bought a cap and polo shirt at the Darwin Research Center store. Part of the purchase price goes to support the center.
The following day, we visit Rabida and Santiago Island?'s James Bay. On Rabida, we see the American yellow warbler, cactus growth on lava rocks, pelicans, Galapagos morning glory, doves, cherry tomatoes, red sand beach, pelican mating, hermit crabs (hundreds), and some snorkeling. The water was rough, so the snorkeling was hard. Flippers and rough water doesn't go together very well. I was hyperventilating, and drank some sea water. Ugh! On Santiago Island's James Bay, we walked over some tide pools created by lava rocks where we saw hundreds of red crabs, heron, sea turtles, sea lions, and a blue heron.
On May 12, we disembarked the Millenium at 6 AM at Bartolome to climb the 372 +/- steps to the lighhouse. We saw some tauila plants; volcano (inactive for now); lizards drinking water from the wet moisture on the board walks; blue, red and orange colored lava, and the GAP Adventure boat. On our way to Sullivan Bay, we saw and took pictures of pinnacle rock of Bartolome Island. The black lava is called "ah ah lava," because when the natives walked on it, they said "ah ah." Juan told us that the Hawaiian's were responsible for creating these words. The smooth lava is called "bahoohoo" or easy to walk. There was a volcano eruption in 1904, exactly 100 years ago.
The following day, we visited North Seymour Island, north of Baltra Island, the other airport of the Galapagos Islands. We saw baby seals feeding, frigates flying-gliding (slow enough to take some photos), blue footed boobies with eggs, and red breasted frigates. The green trees with thorns on North Seymour Island are called "Parkinson" trees, because they shake when the wind blows.
On May 13, we visited Santa Cruz Island's Black Turtle Cove, where mangroves are the norm. This is a very special area of the Galapagos, because this area is famous for sting reys, sharks, and sea turtles. We were lucky enough to see all three in one place, a rare site even for the experienced visitor to the Galapagos Islands. This was the first time for our trip leader/tour guide, Corina, who's been coming to the Galapagos for over four years.
On Wednesday, May 14, we visited Plaza and Santa Fe Islands. On Plaza Island, we saw land iguanas, seals, American yellow warblers, California seals, Darwin finch, and sessuvian (or red plants). Iguanas live up to sixty years, and start to reproduce at six. On Santa Fe Island, we saw seals, Galapagos dove, iguanas (both land and sea), mocking birds, and eagle reys.
On the morning of May 15, we got a early morning boat ride to Kicker Rock, a three and-a-half hour ride from Puerto Baquerizo Moreno of San Cristobal Island, for our farewell cruise and breakfast. We arrived at San Cristobal at 9:30 AM for some shopping time and relaxation to wait for our flight back to Guayaquil at 1 PM. We got first class seating again, and our flight was on time. We arrived in Guayaquil at 3:30 PM, one hour later than Galapagos time. Roberto was waiting for us, and he took us to the market for some last minute shopping. Four left our group for the post trip to Quito and the Amazon for five days. The remaining seven of us returned to the Continental Hotel, and I stayed in my room to repack everything. I had to use the special colorful bag I bought in Machu Picchu to carry all the extras I bought during this journey. Several t-shirts, a polo shirt, 2 hats, a dish, six ceramic corns, a table cloth, alpaca scarf for my wife, a alpaca cardigan sweater for me, and a gold pendant for my wife.
We were awaken the next morning by the 5 AM wake up call, and I arrived home after 17 hours of travel time. What a journey!
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Epilogue: I must now face the task of organizing over 800 photos, correctly title all them, and select about ten percent for a photo album. 
May 19, 2003
LOL c.i.
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