@dlowan,
Ah, found this thread…
Yes, Bywater is lovely. I'm in the Marigny, right at the edge of the FQ on Esplanade. I walk the Marigny and Bywater daily when I'm there. Sorry I didn't see this sooner. There are two main areas for galleries that feature local artists (as well as Jackson Sq). All along Royal St in the FQ and along Julia St in the warehouse district (walkable from the FQ, but the opposite direction from where you were staying). I hope you enjoyed the rest of your visit. Yes, the humidity is brutal. Thank goodness for air conditioning!