@Finn dAbuzz,
I haven't been since I spent the month in Italy in '99. At this point I am mostly interested in the buildings, the spaces, the art, the quiet (outside of services), even the spaces outside, the role of churches in towns and cities. There's a piazza in Rome where the surrounding buildings have the same shapes as the baroque church facade. I try not to disturb anyone there with my looking. I used to be a fervent catholic, and when I left I was pretty angry, but all that was back in the early sixties and the anger against religion is gone, though I've mixed feelings about its effect on humanity and the earth - but it's made by humans and will continue to exist.
I still like gregorian chant, and remember organ music on easter well - and know (once knew better) about the role of religion in some developments in music.
On that Italy trip, I probably went into twenty churches, chasing Caravaggio and Rafael and Michelangelo and lots of others, but also, chasing the spaces and the quiet.