Clary's Travel Digression

I have to wink? (I get a small box, Walter, that doesn't open..)

Here's the article without the photo -


The Very Model of a Modern Major Opera House
Milan's Refurbished La Scala Steps Up to the 21st Century

By Daniel Williams
Washington Post Foreign Service
Monday, November 29, 2004; Page C01


MILAN -- Near the stage of Teatro alla Scala, inside a second-level box, stands a fireplace. The box belonged to Giuseppe Piermarini, architect of the 18th-century theater, and the fireplace was useful in many ways. Central heating was unknown, and since operas were all-day affairs, it was convenient to have someplace for servants to cook up a cutlet or polenta to ease hunger between acts. If the performance was a bust, a nice, soft-boiled tomato could be made readily available to be tossed onstage.

The original form and light blue color of Piermarini's loge was a surprise discovery recently, as La Scala has been completely renovated for the first time since it was built in 1776.


Milan's La Scala stands ready to reopen on Dec. 7 after a two-year makeover, which includes the latest in acoustics and stage mechanics, a revamped floor, and new rehearsal rooms and offices.

Not just a plaster fix here and there or a repair after World War II bombing or construction of a lobby where one never existed or a wiring of the place for electricity. Instead, a new theater has grown up within La Scala's neoclassical walls, which for opera lovers is Yankee Stadium, Madrid's Las Ventas bullring and London's Globe Theatre rolled into one.

On the surface, it is still the familiar La Scala, with its dowdy neoclassical shape, yellow walls, gilt decoration and oversize chandeliers. But a two-year makeover has made it altogether something new. It contains the latest in acoustics, up-to-date stage mechanics, an expanded stage, more seating, a revamped floor and new rehearsal rooms and offices hidden among towers at the rear of the building.

"It is the old Scala and yet is a new Scala," said Artistic Director Mauro Meli. "The old Scala is the history of music. The new Scala must demonstrate that it is the greatest theater in the world."

Such talk may seem excessive for a building that lacks the spectacular looks of such temples of music as Paris's Opera House or the Metropolitan. Yet, La Scala's subdued elegance symbolizes the refinement of a city where a well-made pair of shoes or a finely cut jacket is an expression of civic pride. The annual Dec. 7 opening night at La Scala is arguably the most elegant fashion evening anywhere in the world. The flashiness of Rome or glitz of Los Angeles is out of place at La Scala, whose facade looks something like the entrance to a public library.

Its renovation was a major civic event. Newspapers fretted over whether it would be finished for the annual concert on St. Ambrose Day, which celebrates Milan's patron saint. Only during World War II was the Prima, as the opening performance is called, canceled. This year, "Europa Riconosciuta" by Antonio Salieri, which debuted at the original building, will reinaugurate the theater. Workers are hammering away to make sure the deadline is met.

The media debut earlier this month was more like a political rally than a cultural event. The right-wing mayor and his municipal sidekicks went out of their way to knock leftist naysayers who complained that the restoration had destroyed important relics or complained about the new towers that house the intricate set-moving mechanisms. Mayor Gabriele Albertini boasted that construction was completed on time -- within two years -- and that cost overruns were kept at 10 percent of the total 60 million euro cost, or just over $78 million.

"In Italy, this is very unusual," he said. "Opponents tried to intimidate us, but the most modern stage in the world speaks for itself. It cost less per square meter than redoing a Milanese apartment."

Everyone seemed to agree that the building needed a full renewal. Innovations abound. The floor, repaired quickly after the 1943 bombing, was torn up to excavate rubble. The replacement floor is 12 layers of different materials, including marble dust. It has a section where wood is supported by struts to make it hollow like a string instrument; thus, harmonious notes are prolonged rather than absorbed. The boxes, too, are lined with reflective material that bounce notes back into the theater rather than absorb them.

Patina was preserved. Venetian-style terrazzo has been recovered and polished in the hallways. Marbleized painting decorates the walls, and air conditioning has been refurbished. Because fire exits have been expanded, La Scala can now seat more than 2,000 spectators, compared with the previous 1,500. Seats are equipped with electronic screens to provide English, Italian and French translations.

The original La Scala was sponsored by Empress Maria Theresa of Austria, who felt that Milan, a provincial capital of the Habsburg empire, needed a proper theater. It was built atop the abandoned medieval Santa Maria alla Scala church. "I think we have done a good imitation of Maria Theresa of Austria, who made Piermarini's theater in two years," said Albertini.

The theater effectively belonged to the patrons who owned the balconies -- sort of the original skyboxes. The enclosures were decorated according to the tastes of the owners. They were, in effect, satellite living rooms. Paintings hung on the walls, striped wallpaper was all the rage, the front curtains could be drawn to offer privacy, and coteries of servants served food. The uniform red-and-gold-velvet wallpaper was a later innovation, to symbolize royalty. A staircase ran from the balcony level directly to the street, all the better for the discreet arrival of mistresses. Floor spectators stood.

Piermarini's double box contained gilt-framed mirrors to intensify light from the candles that lit his balcony. The smoke exited through holes in the ceiling. The box is being preserved as in his day, though smoke is no longer allowed.

Business should be better than ever. Because the new machinery permits the mounting of three operas in a single day, La Scala will increase its production schedule and potentially make more money. "It's very emotional to return home and find La Scala more splendid than ever," said Meli.

You have to register, I wanted to say - and added an emoticon

Ah, my emoticon windows were paralyzed for a moment!

Well, I got the article posted anyway. It makes me thirst to be there in Milano..

No, no, you guys have got it all wrong. La Scala is a picture house in Glasgow. Right along from the Alhambra, a famous Glasgow theatre where I used to see the Christmas panto..

Personally, I'd rather go to a Glasgow picture house than an Italian opera house. Just my personal entertainment preference. But I guess we'll try to take in la Scala, if it's open on Christmas Day or Boxing Day. After that we'll be out of the Four Seasons on our ears and looking for cheapo pensiones somewhere pretty - Osso, any recommendations anywhere in Italy? Have time, happy to travel by train...

Pretty - Well, I think Parma is a pretty city, but I saw it in April. I stayed at Hotel Button, extremely handy to a good walk around, not at all expensive, and run by nice people, at least in 1999. Lots of cheesy and hammy possibilities, there and Reggio Emilia, which I haven't been to. This is the region of parma ham (culatello di Zibella, for example, and parmigiano reggiano, and parma violets.) There's the Farnese theater to see, and Bordoni's type studio and the Farnese gallery and the delicious baptistry and a Corregio ceiling in a little place off from the post office. When I was there, the women getting about on their bicycles seemed to have some of the same color wool blazers as some of the houses... gray green, subdued coral, gray, ivory.... probably a bit of serendipity of housing upkeep and buyers' choices.
I think there are some superb restaurants but we kept going back to the same place run by two sisters...

I also like Lucca and its surroundings. My taste might be a little spare for others to go by. I like museums with hardly any visitors, and old roman amfitheatri and walled cities with a park all around the wall..

But my long time most loved place, the one I painted seventeen 12 x 16" paintings after I got back home from - which brought me back to painting after years away - was a tiny inn called Casalta. It is listed on the internet, I'll give a link later.

Casalta is in Strove, a village near Monteriggioni, which is, in turn, very close to Siena, something like 9 miles, I think to the northwest. My husband and I went there because I found it listed in the old small american express guide as good, small - 10 rooms, and serving good tuscan food, all turned out to be true and they had fluffy towels, all for $46. a night in 1988. (my cousin has checked it out since.) .. I am thinking as I type this that it would be closed now. So I'll quit with the promotion, because it was that specific place that worked so well as a place to drive from and walk from and explore non touristy tuscany.

Another italy maven has promoted Umbertide to me.. somewhere in Umbria near Perugia or Assisi... haven't been there myself.

Given where you will be, Milano, I would consider looking into the Piedmont area, re great wines and food. I have of course articles saved and will scrape them up if that area interests you - Piemonte or Emilia-Romagna, Parma being one of many places there. Then of course there is Bologna The Fat.

But wait, I have a place in one of my guide books I have eyed for a long time... back in a minute.

Here's Frommer's on Hotel Button. I thought it was just fine.
I had picked it, after a lot of mulling over, and actually called them to reserve from California and we exchanged faxes. (this was before I had email, or understood email at all.)

When we got there, the older fellow at the desk seemed to know me, perfectly courteous with a real welcome.

http://www.frommers.com/destinations/parma/H34624.html

I am remembering now... one of the nights I was there, with my sharing room room-mate (hiss), we had stopped at Caffe Orientale in Garibaldi Square, to buy... chocolates, and I had left my wallet on the counter. It was brown and the counter was brown and I am sorta nightblind. Anyway, a fellow from the cafe brought it to the hotel, I guess I had a hotel receipt in it, and we all convened in the lobby. All intact, of course, and so I now have a more personal connection with Parma, they know me for a fool and were nice about it.

ps, I think the older fellow at the desk might have been the family dad, or brother. Calm and nice.

I dunno, consider a place like Volterra. Tourists only stay there a half a day, but it is a monumental place if tourists go away. Although charming might not be the exact first word I'd pick.

Trouble is, with towns of fame, people get crosseyed, at least mentally, dealing with the Other Who Is Visiting.

I am thinking the place I am trying to remember, not yet being able to find the exact guidebook - is something like Brighisella, a tiny place with a good cook. Probably defunct by now.. but the kind of situation I keep my eye out for.
For example, back in '88, I was keen on Montigliari vineyard, near Panzano in Chianti. Have no idea how wonderful or not that is now. I don't think it is famous, although I think the wine is highly valued...

OK, I'll be quiet, but it's been fun.

osso, With your love of Italy, you are now my special resource person, so before my trek in May, I'll expect some recommendations on sites, sounds, and restaurants. With the refurbished La Scala, I may spend a day there just to revist.

One advantage of not being a very regular poster on a2k is the wonder of finding old threads that I loved and lost. This is one of those threads.

Osso, it would be a crime for you not to write a travel book on Italy. I love your writing and your unique perspective on places and their personalities.

For those of us who don't give a twit on what everybody else does, your writing is a refreshing look at 'all' the possiblitiies, not just those that can be read about in the New York Times Travel section.

Please consider doing it---in your spare time, of course.

Of course I'd love to write about being me, Diane, but alas, I need to eek out a living. Grumph..


I haven't been to so. italy, though I have a few friends who were in great places... but so what.

I have read myself more about the inbetweens, and I could get political about it all. Southern italy has a thick history and the emergence of the mafia wasn't all rising from evil encarnate, however they may place themselves in the world now, but rising from their own lands becoming hostile.
Not that I'm pro mafia, godno, but they didn't develop out of nothing.

Ah, my last favorite book on the subject was Peter whatsit, Cobb? Midnight in Sicily. He's an australian.

Ciao, tutti! Loislane17 and an Italy-lover is back online after a lovely excursion back home to NYC and CT over the holidays.

Osso, it's Peter Robb from Midnight, and I share your love of that book. Difficult but wonderful. The mafia were considered (and were) more like Robin Hoods when they first burst on the scene. Kind of a good guy gang stealing from the wealthy and cruel landowners and distributing to the poor.

Many's the post that Osso and I have spent nearly putting ourselves into a trance about Italy! sigh. I am heading back next October with 3 friends to show them the Ancient Roman and Etruscan sites and stay in bizarre little spots-and I think of you! One of them is a scholar on Ancient Rome, so I think it will be big fun. I can't wait!

I've done a lot of travelling to the south: Sicily and Calabria and all around Naples bay. It's awesome. Although I was initially nervous about the trip, my friends and teachers at Italingua, an Italian language school here in SF, taught me a few good phrases in dialect, and I ended up having long talks about the relative merit of certain Pino Daniele albums (not in dialect-in Italian!), where to get the best food, who I should never trust in town and on like that!

One wonderful soul gave me an old and enormous book on the translations of the hand gestures in Naples. It is a treasured volume of mine now.

I found the people generous, friendly and wow! can they talk, sing and cook. Sometimes at the same time of course.

Anyway, Osso, you could just assemble some of your greatest posts and you'd have the makings of a new Kate Simon-whose book, Italy: The Places in Between is set the standard for "off roading" in Italy to me.

loislane, Between you and osso, I'm going to be loaded up with more than I'll be able to handle when I'm in Italy. LOL Southern Italy is my primary goal for this trip, but I'm also looking at tours to Dubrovnik and environs including Slovenia. I really don't need Venice, but would like to stop over in Milano one more time. Before or afterwards, I need to be in London and Germany at Walter's home town. It will be about three weeks total.

Not need Venice??? I beg your pardon? Speaking of, don't know CI if you've checked out this site, but it's one of my favorite blogs ever:
http://veniceblog.typepad.com/
Right now there are some great pictures people have sent in on the making of Casanova in Venice. Loads of fun seeing folks in period clothing on cellphones!

As fer down south--might you go to Sicily, or will you be north of that south?

Loislane is the one who should write the book, and perhaps has.. I have saved a lot of her posts on abuzz, not only for the data on where to stay... with which she was generous.
I always paid attention because I think we have some of the same taste for interesting but not terribly expensive inns, and her sense of what is interesting to see and do and be in... is similar to mine.

Of course, I am quite dumb about how to transfer that info that I catapulted onto some cds... if I could ever find it again.

Loislane has done a lot of serious photography of italy, right, lois?

Lois has been to italy almost yearly; I have only been there a few times but make a lot of noise about it.

Our old friend, Paola, who died this past year, did write a book, a tour guide of Italy, with her husband. It is presently not available in English, but an english edition was in the works.

I haven't been south at all, myself, though I've read a lot, not the same thing! A friend recently has been nudging me to move to Ortigia, which is the old town part of Siracusa (Syracuse) in Sicily.... but I have a lot of personal obstacles against making that kind of jump, starting with not having the right bank account. Plus, I wouldn't know anyone there, and haven't even been there. Still, it's a mark of the friend's enthusiasm for the place.

and yes, Peter Robb is the guy.

Go, Osso!

I was pleased to read that La Scala reopens this month.

A trip to La Scala 20 years ago was an absolute highlight of my first time in Italy. We saw the local symphony orchestra, conducted, I think, by Lorin Maazel, and it was just brilliant. A friend of mine, who had worked in Milan, got a friend of his to organise the seats - I couldn't find where to go - no directions matched our ticket numbers. Turns out we had a box - to ourselves! Just amazing! God knows what it cost - my friend paid for them.

The Sydney Morning Herald ran a piece on the opening of La Scala last weekend, in the travel section. I noted that, at a time I may possibly be in Milan next year, the Barber of Seville is the featured opera. Thinking, thinking.....

<Wonder if they've finished that cathedral yet - when I was there it was covered in scaffolding?>

Ahh, yer making me blush, Osso! You know, it's not the number of times you go but how you feel when you get there! I've actually detoured to Belgium, Paris, London, Ireland and Africa and been without my true love Italy for 2 years now. Feels much much longer.

I had started on a guide to planning your own travel to Italy, and taught a course in same. But I was stumbling around about format: it was just too much talking. bree suggested I try making it like a cook book format with the important points up front in bullet fashion, and then the more chatty text to follow! I love that idea but I've been so focused on photography (oh, dear-sorry) that I kind of put it aside.

Funny you should mention photography, I'm setting up for two shows: one next weekend and and then the week after. I had an excellent reception at my first cafe' show a few months ago, and sold quite well. Mostly it was great fun to talk to people about Italy!!

Ortygia was wonderful!! It's a tiny peninsula of Siracusa. There's a hotel there called the Gran Bretagna overlooking the sea--some of the rooms still have their ancient frescoes on the wall!!
Good ruins, great food, I mean astounding food--I had the best cozze of my life there (mussels!)--and the water all around feels good to me.

An appropriate amount of ruins and a cool church or two, plus some great winding little streets. Oh and it has the most overdone and hilarious St. Christopher I've ever seen. I think I have the pic somewhere, and when I learn how to get photos up on a2K, I'll post it for you!

I always say, when someone asks if I'm ever moving to Italy, that I haven't seen it all yet. Right now, my short list is about 40 towns long! It includes Ravenna, Tuscania, several Sicilian towns, the usual big 3, Vicenza, Santa Fiora, Spoleto, Ischia, Vulcano...oh it goes on and on. But I still haven't seen Sardegna, Puglia, and most of the way northern alp-y type towns, and not enough of Liguria and Molise. I can't make an informed choice until I've been at least to every province!

Truth is, with the Euro turned and the dollar dead, it's much harder to conceive of that life. Ah, the glory days of the Lira!