1
   

Rotten Egg smell in softened water

 
 
DWC
 
  1  
Reply Wed 29 Mar, 2006 10:08 am
H2O_MAN wrote:
waterforlife wrote:
You could be getting the odor from sulfide reducing bacteria OR hydrogen sulfide in your water.


You can't have one OR the other.

It breaks down like this... H2S=Anaerobic decay aided by bacteria produces hydrogen sulfide, which in turn, produces sulfur.
Before you spend any money, put the water softener into bypass and see if the smell is still there. If not, use a good softener mineral cleaner in the brine tank and see if the odor disappears. In addition, does the odor come from all water outlets or just one? what I have found is that you may be getting an odor from the overflow in the sink and drain from a buildup of soap makeup hair and other stuff that will collect in the drain. If this is the case when you first run the water the gas will be forced up and out the overflow and seem to be coming from the water itself. If you can, physically clean the drain and pour clorox into the overflow and the drain. On the hot water side if present, remove the "Anode Rod" It is usually a hex nut on top of the tank. Pull the rod out and cut it off about two inches below the plug and put the plug back in. You may also need to drain the tank.
0 Replies
 
DWC
 
  1  
Reply Wed 29 Mar, 2006 10:09 am
Rotton egg odor
Before you spend any money, put the water softener into bypass and see if the smell is still there. If not, use a good softener mineral cleaner in the brine tank and see if the odor disappears. In addition, does the odor come from all water outlets or just one? what I have found is that you may be getting an odor from the overflow in the sink and drain from a buildup of soap makeup hair and other stuff that will collect in the drain. If this is the case when you first run the water the gas will be forced up and out the overflow and seem to be coming from the water itself. If you can, physically clean the drain and pour clorox into the overflow and the drain. On the hot water side if present, remove the "Anode Rod" It is usually a hex nut on top of the tank. Pull the rod out and cut it off about two inches below the plug and put the plug back in. You may also need to drain the tank.
0 Replies
 
Robar
 
  1  
Reply Wed 29 Mar, 2006 03:51 pm
We had to have the Rainsoft control fixed (would not turn off after a cycle) and the tech said that the unit was holding too long in parts of the cycle because of a worn part in the timer, apparently for some time. He fixed it and we have not had the smell since. I don't understand it, but whatever works, I guess!

BTW- why was this response from DWC posted twice? Just wondering.
0 Replies
 
H2O MAN
 
  1  
Reply Wed 29 Mar, 2006 05:30 pm
Robar wrote:
We had to have the Rainsoft control fixed (would not turn off after a cycle) and the tech said that the unit was holding too long in parts of the cycle because of a worn part in the timer, apparently for some time. He fixed it and we have not had the smell since. I don't understand it, but whatever works, I guess!


I'm glad everything is working as it should - keep us posted if things change.
0 Replies
 
Robar
 
  1  
Reply Wed 3 May, 2006 05:18 am
RAINSOFT DOES IT AGAIN!
Just wanted to let H2O Man and others know the trouble we have had lately. We had a problem with our Rainsoft system not completely running a cycle. The water was moderately soft and lasted only a couple of days. After the tech "fixed" it, (Replced the Tri-guard) the water had air bubbles in it and was still not soft. The tech came out again and "fixed" it again (put the old Tri-guard back in) , but this time the thing would not shut off! We then sat without good water for a week waiting for the tech to come. It took three phone calls to get the tech out there. I ended up calling the dealer/owner who called back and was extremely rude, curt, sarcastic and condescending. If I could afford a replacement, I'd get rid of it now.

I would like to know if there are third party repair folks out there and how I can find them. Any thoughts?
0 Replies
 
H2O MAN
 
  1  
Reply Fri 12 May, 2006 03:43 pm
Re: RAINSOFT DOES IT AGAIN!
Robar wrote:


I would like to know if there are third party repair folks out there and how I can find them. Any thoughts?


If you were in my service area I would have up and running in no time.

My advice: Get in touch with customer service @ the RainSoft factory or find a well established local independent water treatment company and see if they can fix your system.

HTH ~
0 Replies
 
satman67
 
  1  
Reply Wed 19 Jul, 2006 08:47 pm
1st of all you need to know how much sulfur you have parts per million
there are several companies that offer a free water test. be careful of the sulfur level a carbon filter may be good for 2ppm if you have alot of sulfur
4 or more oxidisers work and aerators do better. they are big and look like a eye sore. but i live in south florida and thats all you see
0 Replies
 
satman67
 
  1  
Reply Wed 19 Jul, 2006 08:57 pm
you know i see on here robar you had plenty of complaints on rainsoft but i have not seen praises. chlorinate your lines. sulfur builds up in pipes and it will release every now and then. let it sit for about an hour and then flush it thoroughly. next if it is in the hot water more. you can remove the anode rod and plug the hole you might want to pour a cup of chlorine in it as well to help with the sulfur. maybe you should contact kinetico at kinetico.com it is the only true water on demand system no electric to worry about and there is no other system that cleans in soft water and rinses in soft water. no internal parts to come in contact with hard water, they also have a sulfur guard system that will treat up to 3 to four parts of sulfur. and no one can beat the warranty, noone
0 Replies
 
H2O MAN
 
  1  
Reply Thu 20 Jul, 2006 06:28 am
The problem is not sulfur.

The problem is Hydrogen Sulphide (H2S). It is a gas found in ground water.
This gas is easily reduced when filtered through Catalytic Carbon.

Another option on problem water is a more complex chem-feed system.
I use a Stenner pump to feed sodium hypochlorite into a retention tank
and then filter through a tank of granulated activated carbon. This system
usually requires an acid neutralizer up front and a softener at the end.
0 Replies
 
 

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