Rotten Egg smell in softened water

I think you're smelling sulpher

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Re: Rotten Egg smell in softened water

Robar wrote:

We have a Rainsoft water conditioner. Lately the water smells like rotten eggs. It only lasts for the first few seconds the cold water faucet is open. It seems to remain in the hot water. A water specialist said that the water needs aerated. How do I do this and is there another way? thanks.

A backwashing filter with 1.0 or 1.5 cu. ft. of Catalytic Carbon will remove Hydrogen Sulphide gas from your water.
Catalytic Carbon will reduce other taste, odors and VOCs.
Cat Carb is superior to aeration.

The water heater makes the condition worse. If your heater has a sacrificial anode rod - remove it.

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Carbon Filter
Mr. H2O Man! thanks for the response. I took a ride on the web for the catalytic carbon filter and it looks like the commercial ones are $500 for a whole house unit. Is there a better or at least a less expensive way to do this? These have controls for backflushing, etc. Thanks again! It's really nice to know you're out there!

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Re: Carbon Filter

Robar wrote:

Mr. H2O Man! thanks for the response. I took a ride on the web for the catalytic carbon filter and it looks like the commercial ones are $500 for a whole house unit. Is there a better or at least a less expensive way to do this? These have controls for backflushing, etc. Thanks again! It's really nice to know you're out there!

That sounds like a good deal for a backwashing filter with cat-carb and DIY installation.
Shoot me a link and I'll check it out for you.

It need only backwash once every two or three weeks unless you have dirt and sediment.
You should plan on rebedding every two or three years.

Glad to help ~

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Cat Carb Filter Link
Here's the link. I wonder if it would be better to just add separate filters at each sink and for the shower? Would that be more cost effective? I'll have to take a look at that, too, I guess. Thanks again.

http://www.hbwatersystems.com/html/catalytic_carbon.html

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Re: Cat Carb Filter Link

Robar wrote:

I wonder if it would be better to just add separate filters at each sink and for the shower? Would that be more cost effective? I'll have to take a look at that, too, I guess. Thanks again.

The valve pictured is the low-end Fleck, but in this case it's all you need.
You can set it to backwash once every 12 days.
Go for the 1.5 cubic foot filter.

Also, in this case you don't have an option other than point of entry/whole house filtration.
Little point of use filters will not do the job and will not treat the water heater.

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spend money wisely
I have seen too many people misapply equipment to try and solve problem water. You really should get your water tested by an expert. You could be getting the odor from sulfide reducing bacteria OR hydrogen sulfide in your water. There also should be tests done to make sure the system you get for the odor, doesn't malfunction and need service or cleaned out every other month from other non odorous problems you don't notice. You would hate to put good money after bad.

It takes a lot of training to properly size and apply water treatment. Its not something you can just learn from reading a couple paragraphs on a website.

Just ask the treatment professional a lot of questions when he's there at your home testing your water. You should be able to tell if he knows what he's talking about if he looks you in the eye and has confidence in his voice. Make sure he cares about your problem and is there to solve it and not just to make a quick sale.

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Mr. Waterforlife - I'm skeptical
Mr. WFL - I appreciate your comments very much. However, I have had "specialists" check the water and unfortunately they are automatically biased because they rep a company that sells treatment equipment. I can and will only trust someone who has no financial interest in me - except to be paid for his expertise, of course. The Rainsoft "specialist" was also a salesman and when I told him I was not interested in his $2k upgrade, his tone immediately changed. There do not appear to be any unbiased water specialists out there, I'm afraid. If you have any suggestions, I am all ears. Thanks.

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OR

waterforlife wrote:

You could be getting the odor from sulfide reducing bacteria OR hydrogen sulfide in your water.

You can't have one OR the other.

It breaks down like this... H2S=Anaerobic decay aided by bacteria produces hydrogen sulfide, which in turn, produces sulfur.

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safe bet
There are two different types of sulfur. Just like there are two different types of people in the business. The ones that service the equipment and the ones that apply the equipment. I apply equipment for a living and know a little about service. Not the other way around.

It sounds like you don't have a good salesman in your area interested in only solving your problem. That is too bad. If that person would concentrate on only solving what is needed and not to oversell, the referralls and repeat customers he would get would more than make up the difference in his pocket book. I was trained by a service tech who had been with the company for over 35 years on how to apply equipment. And man who he give me an ear full if I oversold a customer.

To cover all of your bases, and without testing your water, an aeration unit with a chlorine feed would probably take care of your problem with sulfur. Of course if you are on a driven well you can always try chlorinating (shocking) your well first and removing that rod from your heater ( if your heater's rod can easily be removed ) and see how well that works and how long it lasts.

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Re: safe bet

waterforlife wrote:

... It sounds like you don't have a good salesman in your area interested in only solving your problem. That is too bad. If that person would concentrate on only solving what is needed and not to oversell, the referralls and repeat customers he would get would more than make up the difference in his pocket book.

I suggest all interested parties do a Google search for "RainSoft service".
The results will be eye opening.

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Chlorination or carbon!
I have had two suggestions so far from this forum's experts; one was to add an activated carbon filter and now to add a chlorination system. First, I moved to the country partially because I DON'T WANT CHLORINE in our water. Second, what is the right solution? It is not a terrible problem. It is just mildly noticable. So which is it, chlorination or carbon filter? I would like some consensus on this before I move in any direction.

Second, I now have another problem. The Rainsoft tech "fixed" a problem we were having with the timer last week. Now we have these little specks of something floating around in the water. I know he changed the valve O ring seals too, because the valve actuator sheared a pin on the actuator shaft. Now I'm wondering if the old seals were being abraised as they moved and this is rubber from them. This has been going on now for 5 days. The tech said to "let it go a few days and see what happpens". Suggestions on this one? Crying or Very sad

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Re: Chlorination or carbon!

Robar wrote:

I have had two suggestions so far from this forum's experts; one was to add an activated carbon filter and now to add a chlorination system. First, I moved to the country partially because I DON'T WANT CHLORINE in our water. Second, what is the right solution? It is not a terrible problem. It is just mildly noticable. So which is it, chlorination or carbon filter? I would like some consensus on this before I move in any direction.

I stand by my original recommendation -
A backwashing filter with 1.0 or 1.5 cu. ft. of Catalytic Carbon will remove Hydrogen Sulphide gas from your water.
Catalytic Carbon will reduce other taste, odors and VOCs.
Cat Carb is superior to aeration.

The water heater makes the condition worse. If your heater has a sacrificial anode rod - remove it.

IMHO a chlorination system is overkill on your mildly noticable situation. Also, all chlorination systems require a post carbon filter.

Robar wrote:

Second, I now have another problem. The Rainsoft tech "fixed" a problem we were having with the timer last week. Now we have these little specks of something floating around in the water. I know he changed the valve O ring seals too, because the valve actuator sheared a pin on the actuator shaft. Now I'm wondering if the old seals were being abraised as they moved and this is rubber from them. This has been going on now for 5 days. The tech said to "let it go a few days and see what happpens". Suggestions on this one?

I'm not sure what the problem is here, but I would bypass the system to find out if it is the source of your specks.
With the system on bypass flush cold water @ the bath tub(s). Then remove any screens and flush cold water at all faucets, now drain about 3 gallons from the bottom of the water heater.
Re-check for specks. When they are gone put the softener back in service. If the specks return - you know they are coming from the softener.

HTH ~

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Thanks!
I was at Sears yesterday and they were recommending the chlorination as well. I mentioned the "H2O Man" and the very nice guy there said , " In all honesty, he probably knows a lot more than Sears! I'd go with him!"

As far as the specks, your suggestion was going to be my task this past weekend. Unfortunately a car emergency took precedence. I will let you know what I find for your future reference. Thanks again.

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Chai Tea wrote:

I think you're smelling sulpher

Yes. I have the same problem every now and again and they tell me it's just sulpher. My plumber, who also does heating systems also said the same thing.

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Rainsoft - an the beating goes on...
Does anyone know how to contact Rainsoft headquarters customer service? I had the tech out to do a repair and he and the salesman told me that any part that touches the water was covered under warranty, but the Triguard apparently isn't because it showed up on the bill. The sales person was very curt and dismissive and I'm tired of it! Does anyone know who I can talk to there - or are they all the same and it's futile to even try?

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To H2O man - The specks appear to be disappearing. It seems to have been related to the seal replacement, that's all I can say about it. I hope it's okay from now on.

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Thanks for the update Robar. I was really curious to know what it was as I've had the same problem.

Oh, and welcome to A2K :-D

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Re: Rainsoft - an the beating goes on...

Robar wrote:

Does anyone know how to contact Rainsoft headquarters customer service?

http://www.rainsoft.com/warranty_mail.asp

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Rotten Egg smell in softened water

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