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Thibodaux, Fontaineaux, the place is buzzin'

 
 
Reply Mon 10 Oct, 2005 08:31 am
A couple of nights ago I roasted a chicken and last night I boiled shrimp with an eye to putting on a big pot of gumbo for dinner tonight.

I haven't made gumbo for a while so I thought that perhaps a little review of method might be in order.

I came across this recipe and I loved it so much that I thought I would share it with you:

Quote:
Gumbo is an unusual kind of food - basically a spicy, thick soup or stew. It is common to the southern States in the USA which border on the Gulf of Mexico, most often associated with Louisiana. Due to its uniqueness and rich variety, it has grown in popularity and is now found throughout the USA and elsewhere.
The word ?'gumbo' is derived from a West African word (nkruma) for okra (known as bamia in the Middle East). Okra is a hardy green vegetable found throughout the Southern USA and the Middle East. It can be boiled, fried, served in gumbo, or eaten raw, if you happen to be a cow. When okra is cut and cooked, it releases a sticky substance which provides the thickening properties that are required for gumbo. It would be reasonably accurate to say that okra is a required ingredient for gumbo. It should be noted, however, that filé powder, made from ground sassafras leaves (introduced by the Choctaw Indians), can be used to enhance the thickening of the gumbo.



To properly prepare gumbo, one must first prepare oneself. This is frequently accomplished by consuming large quantities of Southern Comfort in short periods of time. An alternative method is to read tabloid exposés of the sexual exploits of prominent politicians. The real purpose of the preparation period is to create a state of hunger and boredom that is likely to cause one to examine the contents of the refrigerator. The reason this is an important step in gumbo preparation is that the second essential ingredient for gumbo is ?'leftovers'. In case you grew up in a privileged environment and are unfamiliar with the concept of leftovers, then a definition is in order: Leftovers are those possibly edible items that have not yet been fed to pets or donated to soup kitchens. If you have been dining at a soup kitchen, all the more reason to prepare yourself with more Southern Comfort.

As I recall my grandmother's preparations (her name was Minnie Pearl Givens-Herskovitz-Bitzer - really), gumbo was primarily a way to create more space in the refrigerator without throwing anything away. She did have seventeen cats and twelve dogs, so she actually never threw food away. Gumbo was one step ahead of what went to her pets.

Once one has gathered the two essential ingredients (okra and leftovers), one must then decide on a basic approach. Basically, there are two different approaches: those which involve a roux (pronounced ?'ruu' with a slurred ?'r' due to the previous consumption of Southern Comfort), and those which do not involve a roux. To roux or not to roux is the gumbo preparer's basic question. If one chooses not to roux, then one is most likely to create a tomato-based soup for the initial gumbo base. A roux is created by combining flour and fat and heating - more fat than flour but not by too much. The fat may be lard (common in the Old South), butter (common in the new South), olive oil (common in the Middle East), safflower oil (common in the Far East), or bacon drippings (common in Minnie Pearl's kitchen, since she saved all kinds of leftovers in her four refrigerators). The roux should be cooked over medium heat, not burned, and perhaps light to medium brown in color. If one has decided not to roux, then prepare a quart or more of tomato-based soup, and check again for leftover Southern Comfort, since one has an important decision coming up.

One must next decide what the featured ingredient(s) will be in the gumbo. Typically this will be shrimp, crabmeat, chicken, sausage, ham, or perhaps salami. Of course these can be mixed, which would be entirely within the spirit of gumbo - a mixture of leftovers. I recall my grandmother most often using a mixture of shrimp and crabmeat since we usually had gumbo a few days after having gone fishing and crabbing. Once one has identified the featured ingredient(s), these should be set aside well out of reach of curious cats and dogs, and saved for later.

The middle phase of gumbo preparation is cutting up all of the other leftovers and adding them to a large amount of water, or the tomato-based soup if one has decided not to roux. This stock typically contains chopped onions, garlic, celery, tomatos, carrots, bell peppers, potatos, corn, peas, beans, and so on. It should be brought to a boil and then cooked for at least one hour.

One must now decide on spices. Of course, the spicier the better since eating spicy gumbo will induce a desire to consume large quantities of beer and other liquid refreshments. Mild spices such as bay leaves, filé, parsley, sage, rosemary, and thyme are common. One must also add spicy peppers - preferably, habañero peppers, but cayenne or jalapeño or pequeño or other varieties are acceptable, as is a mixture, in keeping with the prime directive (blend in but don't mess with mother nature).

Add the spices to the simmering mixture. If one has chosen to roux, then one may now add that mixture as well. Simmer for another hour, and check on the supply of Southern Comfort.

One is now ready for the final stage: adding the featured ingredient(s). This should be done with great caution, since it may cause the large stock pot to now overflow if your measurements have not been carefully pre-planned. Simmer for another hour and taste.If you are able to taste the gumbo and recognize that it is spicy, then you have not consumed too much Southern Comfort and may now have another drink.

Gumbo is best served with spicy cornbread and eaten in the company of good friends. If these additional things are not at hand, then have another drink and enjoy!

Additional Notes:
1. Leftover gumbo may be stored in the refrigerator or freezer and may become one of the ingredients in the next batch of gumbo, making this a partially recursive recipe.
2. Lynchburg Lemonade may be substituted freely for Southern Comfort.

Copyright 1998
Michael Spector


http://soeweb.syr.edu/Faculty/Spector/personal/gumbo.html
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sozobe
 
  1  
Reply Mon 10 Oct, 2005 09:03 am
I was hooked from "....if you happen to be a cow." :-D

Tell us how it turns out!
0 Replies
 
boomerang
 
  1  
Reply Mon 10 Oct, 2005 09:24 am
It does start out a bit dry but then it really gets funny.

I would love to have a cookbook made up of narrative recipes -- I like cooking suggestions more than cooking facts. In my kitchen, measuring devices are used for baking but not much else.
0 Replies
 
sozobe
 
  1  
Reply Mon 10 Oct, 2005 09:38 am
I took a folklore class where we had to interview people, there was a term, "folkways" is coming to mind but I can't remember. Anyway, I got some narrative recipes that way, SO cool!!!! (I remember one was about how to make chopped liver and included all sorts of digressions about I think the teller's aunt -- what I remember is that the teller did NOT like this woman and insulted her in all kinds of highly entertaining ways.)

Man, where is that paper? That was fun.
0 Replies
 
eoe
 
  1  
Reply Mon 10 Oct, 2005 09:47 am
It is very funny but I gotta tell ya, I have never known gumbo with beans and peas and corn in it. Well, that's not true. In Savannah, my sister-in-law prepared what she called gumbo with a tomato base and those ingredients and it was very tasty but in my neck of the woods, that's called a vegetable stew or soup, minus the seafood, of course.
My mother's gumbo always began with a roux and consisted of okra, the triage of bell pepper, celery and onion, shrimp, ham and either crab or chicken parts (legs, wings, thighs, etc). It was eaten over rice.
And her drink of choice while cooking was a can of good 0l' Budweiser, with a pack of Pall Malls on the side.
0 Replies
 
boomerang
 
  1  
Reply Mon 10 Oct, 2005 09:54 am
I've never had a tomato based gumbo either, eoe and thought it was an interesting turn myself. It does make me think of "red-eye gravy" though which, if I recall, is gravy made with tomatos when there wasn't any meat in the house.

I want to go have dinner with your mother!

Mr B and I went to a fancy steak house here once and they had gumbo on the menu for $14 a bowl. I thought that sounded pretty expensive for leftovers!
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boomerang
 
  1  
Reply Mon 10 Oct, 2005 10:39 am
Yeah soz, where is that paper?

I would love to see more recipes written in a similar vein.

Typically I make my roux and assemble to soup on top -- this time I'm going to assemble my soup and add the roux later, like this recipe suggests. That way, I can simmer the stock for a chuck of the day and thicken it all up later.
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boomerang
 
  1  
Reply Mon 10 Oct, 2005 07:09 pm
Hey! My gumbo turned out pretty darn good.

I was alarmed because when I added the okra the stock went really dark -- which makes me worry a bit about the quality of okra we get here. Okra is a real oddity here and it takes a special trip to the one store I know that sells it.

I forged ahead though and it looks a bit crazy but it tastes really good.

I turned out to be a perfect gumbo kind of day. Very fallish nip in the air. Plus, my lovely neighbor came over to invite Mo and I to the park. She just had her second baby and is losing her mind. Her older boy, just about a year younger than Mo, ended up spending most of the day at our house after the park and, no worries, dinner had been cooking since before noon.

Everything is simmering and bubbling and smelling wonderful. I'm going to stick Mo in the bath, get some rice on the range and crack open a beer.

God help me, I find myself wishing for a Pall Mall and a kitchen full of friends.

Soz, eoe, there are sure to be leftovers if you have some frequent flier miles you need to use up!
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eoe
 
  1  
Reply Mon 10 Oct, 2005 08:41 pm
Sounds good.Thanks for the invite.
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sozobe
 
  1  
Reply Mon 10 Oct, 2005 08:51 pm
E.G. and I just now had a "we aren't having another kid, are we?" conversation, so this was kind of nice to see:

Quote:
She just had her second baby and is losing her mind


I mean, not nice for her, of course, and lucky her to have you around to take care of the older guy for a while.

As for the gumbo, I'm so there!!!

Reminds me of a topic I wanted to start, too...
0 Replies
 
mac11
 
  1  
Reply Mon 10 Oct, 2005 08:57 pm
Wonderful recipe, but I'm with eoe about traditional gumbo. (I grew up in Louisiana, but Mom & Dad were Yankees. Hence no gumbo was cooked in our house - ever - but I ate a lot of it everywhere else.)

No beans, peas, or corn. And it is always served over rice or with rice spooned onto the top of it. Oh and another variation was turkey gumbo, useful for that post T'giving turkey carcass.

I'm glad yours turned out so well, boomer. I'm definitely in the mood for some gumbo now.
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boomerang
 
  1  
Reply Mon 10 Oct, 2005 09:52 pm
Yeah soz. Lovely neighbor is a good Mormon girl and second son is sweet and gentle but older boy is insane with grief. She is having a hard time.

My neice has a daughter (Monkey) the same age as sozlet and Mo, she is expeting another baby in December. Monkey is already mad.

That has to be a hard decision to make. Haven't been there, haven't done that, myself though.


Raised by Yankees in Louisianna, mac?

Lordy, lordy, lordy.....

You're lucky to be sane and competent enough to type! When you write your biography, I'm first in line to buy it.
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sozobe
 
  1  
Reply Tue 11 Oct, 2005 08:24 am
Has Monkey been an only child 'til now?

Definitely hard. What it comes down to is that nobody (me, E.G., sozlet) wants that right now, but we aren't sure if we should just push through that and do it because it's the right thing to do... but you can just tell from that sentence formulation what the answer is, can't you?

By the way did you see my "cooking with kids" topic? Would love to get any ideas you might have.

And mac, I'll be second in line!
0 Replies
 
eoe
 
  1  
Reply Tue 11 Oct, 2005 10:14 am
Still a little warm for gumbo in this part of the country. But because my taste buds are now going wild, maybe I'll do a little shrimp etoufee or a jambalaya this weekend.
0 Replies
 
boomerang
 
  1  
Reply Tue 11 Oct, 2005 10:25 am
I could live on etuoufee.

Mine never turns out right. I don't know what I'm doing wrong.

Luckily there is a restaruant here that serve a good bowl.

Once in a while they even have sweet potato pecan pie.

If I close my eyes, I'm almost home.
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Tomkitten
 
  1  
Reply Fri 21 Oct, 2005 11:47 am
Thibodeaux
Wll, it's been a long time since I've eaten real gumbo. We used to have it pretty much once a week, with a big bowl of white rice passed around for everyone to take a helping and dump it in their bowl.

And I miss file powder. I don't know if you can even find it up here.
0 Replies
 
mac11
 
  1  
Reply Fri 21 Oct, 2005 01:10 pm
Tomkitten, I'll send you some if you're desperate. You can't have gumbo without it, IMO.
0 Replies
 
Tomkitten
 
  1  
Reply Fri 21 Oct, 2005 01:45 pm
Thibodeaux
Thanks, mac, you're very kind, but I don't cook any more.
0 Replies
 
Tomkitten
 
  1  
Reply Fri 21 Oct, 2005 01:48 pm
They don't understand okra "up here".
0 Replies
 
ossobuco
 
  1  
Reply Fri 21 Oct, 2005 04:16 pm
Gumbo file


I see fresh okra in my market here sometimes...
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