4dr Honda Accord or Mazda6?

Get a car with the seat lifting/lowering thingy. I'm 5'11" and my Honda had that. It was the greatest thing to never hit my head when getting in.

...Except when short people drove my car, moved my seat and never put it back in its original position... I hate when people do this.

http://autos.yahoo.com/newcars/comparison/results.html;_ylt=AmMw9WKWEa5xwl7my9qLrfoOc78F?pagetitle=overview&carid0=14001&carid1=16321&compare=Compare+cars


side by side comparison, wich ISNT a fair comparison as the mazda only has ONE review..

b ut this may help you.

and finall.. ( i will stop flooding your thread )
here is a page that backs up alot of the info I gave ya. It is helpful in comparing vehicles if you decide to go the used route.

http://www.autooninfo.net/ReliabilityPercentranksMotorVehicle.htm

and know this :
Chrystler, dodge, jeep, eagle mitsubishi = same company
Toyota, lexus = same company
Ford, lincoln, mercury, mazda = same company
Chevy, GM, saturn = same company

so if you choose to buy used and are looking at one of those, dont be bullied by a salesman if they try to tell you one of those are better then the other. They are made by the same company. they essentially are the same product.

Kia, dont touch with a 10 foot pole!!!

happy shopping. :-)

Oh, and acura is made by honda. Just a more expencive version. You can shop them for used vehicles and get a wonderful vehicle as well.

I was looking at the Jeep Liberty. Better on gas than the Xterra. Also seemed more reliable despite a little smaller. However, Xterra is so dang sexy and can fit a lot of his field stuff for the military.

liberty has a bad tip over rating.

and yeah.. the xterra is SO much nicer looking.
if you want to keep your gas mileage high, every 10,000 miles, check you rtire pressure , ALWAYS.. ALWAYS.. change your iol at 3,000 miles and tune-ups.. never miss one.
you will see it will stay about the same and wont break your bank.
dont fall for the ' premium gas' either.
there are only a hand full of cars that really NEED premium gas and sorry babe.. you cant afford one!!
( that is what the dealer told me about that premium gas and i was like WTF? who are YOU talking to like that?? , but then he explained and now I wont touch the stuff )
Any 6 cylinder or below can operate on an octane rating of 93 or less. the ones that require premium are the realllllly expencive sport cars.
another tip i learned from a mechanic..
Always use the same type of gas. Dont bounce between gas companies . If y ou start using Shell, always use shell. introducing new gas / alcohol/water ratios to your engine causes unecessary engine wear and will raise your gas needs QUICKLY.



oh wait.....

didnt i say I was going to stop babbling on your thread?
sorry...
hehee I cant help it. I am a car dork.
But i hope i helped you SOME in my constant talk.

The gas info was very interesting. I get HEB and on-base military gas station ....gas ...whatever co. that is.

So basically the same 2 places depending on where I'm at. They're the cheapest here.

Jeep Liberty - stay far far away. They've had a lot of recalls - are also associated with those Firestone tires that are death traps. <insurance head speaking here>

Personally I run only Michaelina's tires, they also make good stroganoff and lasagna.

Joahaeyo, I used to sell used foreign cars, and I'm telling you Honda's are MUCH MUCH better cars than Mazdas. No comparison. Don't get me wrong, the new Mazda6 is a nice car, and is fun to drive, but if you plan on keeping the car for the long haul, get the Honda.

-Superior build quality. You may not be able to tell when they're brand new, but the Honda will stay "solid" much longer than the Mazda. From what I've seen, once the Mazda's start getting some miles on them, they're shakier, rattle more, ect. They're cheaper built cars...that's why it's a little cheaper to buy than the Accord.

-Reliability. If you're going to keep it past warranty, they break down more. A Honda is lower maintainance. The Mazdas typically have strong engines/transmissions, but little things like wheel bearings, check engine lights coming on, suspension wear faster than Hondas.

-Resell. Only Japanese car that holds it's value as well as a Honda is Toyota. Mazdas depreciate very quickly...and the reasons are listed above.

I've always thought of Mazdas and Mitsubishis as the "American" Japanese cars...they're as good as an American car.

as an aside, when I was looking for a pickup (little one) I did some serious research on Nissan/Mazda/Toyota, the Toyota was far and away the best built (and the most $$) I got the Toyota.

theres no such thing as a "v4", there are only inline four's, if you want a car with power and comfort, why dont you go with the jdm accord, better known as the ACURA TSX........

Damn, My Saab (2 of them) cheated me.

They've put V4's in motorcycles, too. So there's such a thing.

But 99.999999999% of the time in cars, they are inline 4's. I can't think of a single car that's had a V4. Obviously Saab used to.

Saab, both the model 96 and 97 had v-4s

Cool, I just figured they were inline.

I'm on my 3rd 4 door honda accord. No complaints, I would like to try something else, just for a change, but I'm so satisfied with Honda it would be foolish.

That's my 2 cents.

Slappy, I heard the best time to buy a car is at the end of any month, as the sales people might be more inclined to make a beter deal due to quotas.

Is it true?

I'm really not sure if that's true. I didn't work for a franchised new car dealer, so there were no month end sales.

I know at the new car dealers, they do have monthly goals, so the salesman may work extra hard, but I'd think they(or any salesperson) would work just as hard for any other sale.

Hmmm, thinking, tell us a secret, you were on the inside.

Let's see...extended warranty prices are negotiable. You buy them through a 3rd party, sold by the dealer. So if the warranty really costs $495, the dealer could sell it for up to, $1495 for example. So you could always ask them to lower the price...most managers would probably decline, but it's worth a try.

In MA, the dealer can mark the loan up 3 points. So if the bank approved you at 5%, the dealer can mark the loan up to 8%. Actually, some banks in MA only allow 2.5 points now, because of litigation suits going on in states where there's no max markup. So if you're getting a car loan, your best bet is to see what rate you can get on your own, then see if the dealer can match or beat it.

Guides like Kelly Blue Book, NADA, Edmunds, rarely reflect the true trade in value of your car. So walking in a dealer armed with those things make you look like an internet-consumer dork with no clue. And if you're trading in a car, the best way to do it is not mention the trade until after you've negotiated the price of the car you're buying. It just makes it easier, so you negotiate one thing at a time, and you now what you're truely buying the new car for.

What else? My company worked pretty ethically(at least for a car dealership), so I didn't do a lot of dirty stuff you might hear about. Car dealers get a worse rap then they deserve...it's the whole buying/selling process that makes people uncomfortable, and car dealerships are still set in the stone age as far as selling process.