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Car Body Paint Touch-Up / Surface Prep

 
 
CDobyns
 
Reply Mon 11 Aug, 2014 12:44 pm
I've got a '95 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo that we've taken good care of, and/or just been remarkably lucky with owning - as it's had very few problems mechanically, and its black paint still has a near new appearance.

I've had a mostly great experience recently touching-up, or simply outright painting a couple of replacement parts (for this vehicle and others), that were pre-primed and off the vehicle. I figure that's about 9 parts attributable to the pre-primed parts and just general improvements to the OEM paint formulation and delivery nozzles, and about 1 part having to do with my expertise.

I'm getting ready to paint the only place on my Jeep, where for some reason the paint job has clearly begun to fail (the left, front upper surface of the quarter panel), but virtually nowhere else.

These pictures would seem to indicate that the clear coat and the paint have begun to oxidize and fail, but the primer seems to be holding up okay.
http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z319/CGDobyns/IMG_0395_zps74b2b8fd.jpg
http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z319/CGDobyns/IMG_0393_zps5205826c.jpg
http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z319/CGDobyns/IMG_0394_zpsaf315a58.jpg

Since this oxidation and breakdown of the paint is just on the upper surface, I thought I would mask off and repaint that area, and just down vertically on the panel, where there's a convenient horizontal crease in the panel, that will help "blend" where the repainting ends, and the touch-up paint begins. Since the last time I can recall working on this kind of on-car touch-up, was helping my dad repaint the rocker panels on our '62 Rambler station wagon (when I was 8 years old, no less . . .), I thought I would ask for some help on the surface prep that's needed, in order to make this touch-up appear reasonably decent when it's finished.

What sort of "sanding" (or whatever) is needed to give the surface area a more flat, even surface, to accept paint - maybe without compromising the primer coat which seems to be in perfect, intact condition. Is that wet-dry sandpaper, steel wool, or will just abrasive language directed at the panel do the trick? (I suspect that last option will not do the trick, but it seemed like fun to say it . . .)
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cicerone imposter
 
  1  
Reply Mon 11 Aug, 2014 08:44 pm
@CDobyns,
Look up on the internet for auto body paint touchup. I think one of the necessary steps is to give the surface some sanding. Here's an 8 step instruction that will probably help you.

http://www.wikihow.com/Touch-Up-Car-Paint
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carloslebaron
 
  1  
Reply Sun 12 Oct, 2014 03:24 pm
I think that I better sand hard and put a new coat of primer first. For some reason the paint didn't stick with the primer in that area, and the clear coat just paid the price or helped to the paint for peeling off. So the best is to re-do the whole process again.

I would paint the whole area between the division of body parts, lets say, if the affected area is the top of the fender, I would paint the whole fender.
cicerone imposter
 
  1  
Reply Sun 12 Oct, 2014 04:02 pm
@carloslebaron,
That would be fine if you could match the color.
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carloslebaron
 
  1  
Reply Sun 12 Oct, 2014 07:48 pm
Yup. For this reason I think is better to paint the complete area, like the complete bumper, the complete fender, etc.

Even when the color won't match perfectly with the rest of car, is less noticeable because there is a black line -created by the edges of the body parts- that might dissimulate the difference.

Actually this is what body shops do besides of trying to match to their best the original color, unless the whole car is painted.
cicerone imposter
 
  1  
Reply Sun 12 Oct, 2014 07:52 pm
@carloslebaron,
My car is nine years old, and I had some small body repair and paint done recently, and it matches pretty well. I also try to keep up maintenance on my car with regular washing and waxing - which I believe are important.
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