This one is a couple of blocks from me. Perfection. There's also a little Italian greengrocer a few blocks east of here - almost always fresh rabbit behind the the counter - and the most astonishing parmagiano.
Royal Beef
Master butcher Paul Estrela is busy with a customer: an elderly lady who is picky about the two lamb chops she wants for her dinner. He is courteously helping her select the very best, so I chat with his wife, Carmen, who is in charge of the deli side of the store. Her inventory always interests me: a combination of the highest quality (several types of Parma prosciutto, whole wheels of Parmigiano-Reggiano and grana padano, a Fruttato olive oil skimmed from the top of the first gentle pressing) to please the savvy gourmets who come here from across southern Ontario for Estrela's meats; and of boggling bargains to suit neighbourhood tastes (Oliveira da Serra Portuguese oil at $6.99 for 750 mL). She gives me a taste of an asiago that tastes of cream instead of ammonia, then we chat about her breads and fresh produce. Estrela's customer is satisfied, which pleases him. Now it's my turn. I first started to learn about meat in the late innings of the last century by watching this man use a knife. Estrela was into slow food before the term existed, putting a lifetime of expertise into the selection and aging of beef, cutting to order, taking the time to satisfy himself about each piece of meat he sells. These days, he carries Alberta's finest, as he has always done, and also Angus Pride number one prime, "the Rolls-Royce of beef," as he calls it, "so consistent, killed at a certain weight, at certain times of the year. Ask for steaks cut from the fifth, sixth and seventh ribs because they have a larger skirt of sweet meat than the wing end. Look at that marbling." Yes indeed. My eyes stray to his counter: little marbled racks of Ontario Dorset lamb, grass-fed veal, our province's famous pork and impeccable poultry. No wonder restaurants and other butchers with less expertise rely on his wholesale assistance. Paul Estrela is an artist.
Address: 1968 Danforth Ave. (at Woodbine), 416-421-1029.
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