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I'm Going To Spain

 
 
patiodog
 
  1  
Reply Mon 23 Feb, 2004 08:18 pm
Off-topic, but one of my best camping nights ever (near a road, anyway) was at Montserrat, near Barcelona. The bells ringing down the canyon under the full moon were unbelievable. Real cacphonic bell ringing -- not that automated melodic stuff you get in a lot of places. A nightmare of tour groups during the day, though...
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Sugar
 
  1  
Reply Thu 11 Mar, 2004 09:40 am
Maybe instead of taking the train everywhere, we'll just walk....

http://www.boston.com/news/world/europe/articles/2004/03/11/170_people_killed_in_madrid_explosions/
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quinn1
 
  1  
Reply Thu 11 Mar, 2004 09:42 am
Saw that this morning Sug and thought of you...was going to suggest it to you actually
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patiodog
 
  1  
Reply Thu 11 Mar, 2004 05:22 pm
goddamn...
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Piffka
 
  1  
Reply Thu 11 Mar, 2004 11:29 pm
What a terrible shame about the bombings in Madrid. I wonder, will they ever find out who did it? Don't let the fears of terrorism stop you though, Sugar. You'll have a great trip!

I have stayed in Malaga in the penthouse at the Hotel A.C. Málaga Palacio (which I recommend, though Lord, it is spendy) and while it has its charms, if you are really looking for a beach town... consider Nerja.

Nerja is 50 km. east of Malaga -- a half hour drive -- and small enough that in four days you'll feel like you know it well and maybe the surrounding towns too, including the two closest white villages, Torrox (where I stayed for 10 days in 2000) and Frigilliana, both of which are award-winningly picturesque. Further down the road, fronting the Medi and on the way towards Granada, is a little-known Moorish hill fort on the sea with its own small museum. Also cool. In Nerja, I know a great and inexpensive place to stay, very friendly (they even told us they'd pick us up at the Malaga airport if we didn't want to rent a car). That place is called Paraiso del Mar. http://www.jpmoser.com/images/p-paraisodelmar3.jpg
It is a small hotel right next to the state-run parador in Nerja. Paradors, btw, are wonderful for travelers even when you're not staying there. They're a great place to stop and use their facilities while having some coffee, food or a drink. There is a Parador within the Alhambra that has access to the gardens at night, but I was told the waiting list for a room is over two years.

I really think a car is necessary in Andalucia... beware -- there's a really good place to rent cars at the Malaga airport and a really bad place, Avis. You'll find that driving is easy in Spain. The toll roads are gorgeous and not that expensive. You can casually drive from Gibralter (note: I don't recommend actually going into Gibralter) to Nerja in half a day with the Mediterrean next to you all the way. It is fun to see all those fabled towns like Marbella, Torremolinos, etc. Estepona, btw, has an amazing Andalucian stable (that you can tour for free) and a riding academy with shows on, I think, Tuesdays and Saturdays. The other days, you can just walk in and watch them practicing... and there's a small restaurant if you want a drink.

Granada is great for the Alhambra and Generalife, but I was ready to find someplace else after touring. I'm interested in what your guy likes about the town! There is an interesting part of town on the hill going to Alhambra with a lot of shops selling touristy things including my favorite, fantastic ribbons that look like miniature oriental carpets. I admit I am a scenery-loving, let's do something outside, and ooooh, look-there's-something-ancient kind of traveler, so I have a short attention span. I love museums but not all day every day and I really love to just sit and enjoy the view while drinking something tall and cold.

If Washington Irving is the author to read while you're in Granada, Earnest Hemingway is the author for Ronda. I highly recommend adding Ronda to your itinerary. There are two main things to see in town... it has the oldest original bullring in Spain. There is easy safe parking next to it and an inexpensive entrance fee to tour the ring and see the bull-fighting museum. The second amazing thing to see is Ronda's bridge. It
http://www.andalucia.com/ronda/images/c1403_2.jpgreally shouldn't be missed and <big tip> the restaurant next to the bridge is justifiably famous for its fantastic gazpacho and views into the canyon between Ronda's two hills. In three weeks in Europe in 2001, we thought we ate our best meal there (granted we didn't go to France or Italy).

Just outside Ronda is a great place to stay, a B&B where my daughter and I stayed for a few days. A little pricey, but worth it. It's run by an youngish & arty Dutch couple... English-speaking, very friendly and their 3-course dinners are amazing... definitely a place worth seeking out. Hotel Fuente de la Higuera http://www.hotellafuente.com/images/front.jpg

While in Ronda there are two particularly interesting short-trips: a fantastically complete Roman amphitheater http://usuarios.lycos.es/pacolorente/TeatrosRomanos/acinipo1.jpgout in the middle of a sheep pasture in Acinipo 20 km. from Ronda and an amazing prehistoric art cave, Cueva de la Pileta (about the same distance away in the other direction)http://www.serraniaronda.org/assets/images/PiletaCabra.jpg that ordinary people are allowed to see, for a small fee. The cave tour is mostly done in Spanish, but you'll get the idea. (Hint -- I had a tiny flashlight on my keychain which was a comfort in the dark.) The mountains between the Medi and Ronda and between the Medi and Granada are beautifully scenic, so driving is just an amazing pleasure. Btw, the only place we were ripped off was for street parking at the Alhambra. DO NOT BELIEVE the gypsies when they say there is no parking lot. Evil or Very Mad Also, tickets for the Alhambra/Generalife are hard to get -- buy them way ahead of time, even before you leave the states. The first time I went to Spain, in 2000, although we were there for two weeks we just couldn't get tickets... they were all sold out.

For clothes, spare is better, watch the weight of everything you take and just remember, it'll be hot. It's a fact though, that looking good gives you better service. Light summer dresses would be perfect with a comfy pair of walking sandles. If you could find a good-looking backpack/purse you'll be so happy. It is nice to have your hands free. A linen blazer gives you instant respectability. Wear shoes that you absolutely know are comfortable. If you want to go to that Pileta cave, for goodness' sake, wear tennis shoes (and you'll need a warm sweater, too.) Also, do you know HOW BIG the Alhambra is? It's an all-day-on-your-feet kind of place. In Nerja, skimpy swimsuits and strolling to the beach in a gauzy coverup & sandals is perfectly fine. (You can't do that in Malaga.) You'll need a beach mat of some kind... you can buy them there, of course, as well as beach towels, though they may not be the quality you're used to.

Wherever you go, you're going to enjoy it. Spain is great -- low-key and friendly. Everybody wants you to have a good time when you're there.
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margo
 
  1  
Reply Fri 12 Mar, 2004 12:42 am
Piffka wrote:
There is a Parador within the Alhambra that has access to the gardens at night, but I was told the waiting list for a room is over two years.

Piffka
That was a wonderful response - full of useful information - and set this travel tart's itchy feet a'tapping!

I saw the parador beside the Alhambra - and hoped to stay there one day (you could only afford one day!). I didn't realise that it was booked out so far in advance.

Perhaps I should book now, and go whenever my booking turns out to be! Confused
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ossobuco
 
  1  
Reply Fri 12 Mar, 2004 01:15 am
I have an old copy, well probably not sooo old, but old to me, of W. Irving's Granada... with uncut pages..

which I'd really like to go to. I liked your info, piff, that is just the kind of thing people like us need to know in the first place and we never know til we get there.

Thank you...
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Sugar
 
  1  
Reply Fri 12 Mar, 2004 09:34 am
Thanks Piffka! The photos and info are making me look forward to it all the more!
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Piffka
 
  1  
Reply Fri 12 Mar, 2004 10:51 am
Well, it was a pleasure to research again. Lovely Andalucia, even Christopher Columbus waxed ecstatic about it...


He's buried in Sevilla. I heard it could be hotter than you can imagine, what with the heated tiles & endless sun. Be sure to find a place with a garden. There are some fantastic hotels I researched once in...

Quote:
...the neighbourhood of Santa Cruz, the old Jewish Quarter, includes the Cathedral, the Giralda, the Archivo de Indias and the Alcázar

...pleasures for all five senses... Adorned with beautiful patios, multitudes of flowers and unbelievably narrow streets, Santa Cruz borders... the most spectacular complex of monuments in the city.


That sounds like the cooler parts of Granada... Omigod, I just had a thought. Sugar, do you think your guy found a room in the Alhambra Parador and that's why he wants to stay in Granada???

Is it really your honeymoon? Your man seems Massively Cool Romantic........ . .... Best wishes for happiness to both of you!
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margo
 
  1  
Reply Fri 12 Mar, 2004 01:31 pm
Maybe that's the place for my next landmark birthday - got a cuppla years to go!
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Piffka
 
  1  
Reply Fri 12 Mar, 2004 02:10 pm
Good idea, Margo. I wonder if it really is that hard to get a reservation? I only tried a couple of times and all Paradors are hard to get into. A lot of tours book rooms, I think. Here's a link...

http://circumvista.com/Images/Main/large/2388a.jpg

http://circumvista.com/Images/Main/large/2388d.jpg
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Clary
 
  1  
Reply Mon 15 Mar, 2004 06:06 am
COMFORT, COMFORT COMFORT - Walking round somewhere like Granada is wonderful, one of my favourtie cities and I've visited it many times, but unless you have really comfortable sandals (much the best, let the air through) you are going to suffer! The little streets of the Albaycin district are cobbled and steep, so you need to have sure footing as well as comfort. Cool classic cotton, I'd recommend! Get up early, have a croissant and coffee in the square while it's cool, aim to be in museums and air-conditioning in the heat, certainly take a snooze after lunch, which shouldn't be too heavy, then go out again at 6, ending up after walking and drinking, walking and drinking and watching people, at 10 o'clock at a really nice restaurant!

¡Disfrutate!
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Piffka
 
  1  
Reply Mon 15 Mar, 2004 12:45 pm
Oh wow, I'm just thinking how much fun it would be to plan a stay at the Granada parador for Margo's b-day. Y'know, there are some nice big houses I've seen that could be rented by groups for more economical lodgings.

<sigh>


Totally agree with you, Clary, about comfort sandals and I've never even been to Spain in the worst of its heat. It can be chilly too, on the shoulders of summer though, there's no denying.

Anyway, I love that schedule you set up, Clary. Just about perfect... but when do you fit in the beach?
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Clary
 
  1  
Reply Mon 15 Mar, 2004 05:14 pm
I'll be with you, Piffka and Margo! Hey, no beach in Granada - you have to mosey on down to the Costa del Sol for that!
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Piffka
 
  1  
Reply Mon 15 Mar, 2004 05:58 pm
I know, I know. Very Happy But it's less than a two-hour drive (even as slowly as I go) through that precipitous mountain pass. Lovely scenery.
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margo
 
  1  
Reply Tue 16 Mar, 2004 12:37 am
Piffka wrote:
Good idea, Margo. I wonder if it really is that hard to get a reservation? I only tried a couple of times and all Paradors are hard to get into. A lot of tours book rooms, I think. Here's a link...

http://circumvista.com/Images/Main/large/2388a.jpg

http://circumvista.com/Images/Main/large/2388d.jpg


Great idea, Piffka - make a celebration of it!

I've got a couple of years to go, but I'm giving it serious consideration! I reckon you could only afford to stay there one night (or I could, at least!) but it looks lovely, and...the chance to walk in the gardens un-disturbed (well, not entirely - I'm already disturbed! Twisted Evil ) But I'd be up for staying somewhere else - it's a bloody long way from here to Spain (something like 26 hours flying) - so I want to see a bit while I'm there. Skip the beaches, though, for me. Beaches I have here.

I stayed at the parador in Arcos de la Frontera, for 1 night, then a friend and I walked down the street to a smaller hotel, with exactly the same view, but slightly smaller rooms, for less than half the price.
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Piffka
 
  1  
Reply Tue 16 Mar, 2004 09:54 am
I forget, when's your birthday? I know those durn Paradors are not value for money.
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margo
 
  1  
Reply Tue 16 Mar, 2004 12:44 pm
April 2007 we're looking at!
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urs53
 
  1  
Reply Thu 18 Mar, 2004 07:33 am
We stayed at the Parador in Ronda right next to the canyon. I would say it was worth the money, Piffka!
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Clary
 
  1  
Reply Fri 2 Apr, 2004 10:51 pm
margo wrote:
April 2007 we're looking at!
Oh poor, Margo, don't you get a birthday every year?!

Plenty of good hotels that aren't paradores and costing the earth en Espana.
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