EcoWater 3000....... Repair or replace?

Thank you ctwater! I will look for the part, study the manual and get to work... I will post what happens... 8)

Thank you ctwater. I don't seem to be able to locate the 688 disc kit you recommended on the internet. Any suggestion where I can find it?

Before having the dealer out, find out if they installed it. If so when and what service history they have including the water test(hardness, pH, chlorine). If the unit is over or around 20 years old ask for a salesman come out for a free estimate of a new unit( $200 is a lot for a service call). Good Luck

Do you have a bypass installed on your unit? If so, all you need to do is place the water softener into bypass mode and that will allow you to only be on city water. Where is your system leaking from? There should be a label somewhere on the unit that tells you the model number. It is usually inside the brine tank near the top. That model number will help the experts on this forum to possibly assist you in troubleshooting and hopefully repairing your system.

I have an EcoWater ERR3000R20 unit. I kept having water entering my brine tank. I searched the internet for a possible solution. I did the preliminary items first: cleaned the venturi system, ensured the drain line was clear, cleaned the brine valve and ensured the float was moving freely up and down the rod in the brine well. These were all easy procedures. My unit had plenty of suction at the venturi and would produce soft water with no issues. It was just the water filling the brine tank that was annoying. I disconnected the brine hose from the venturi and there was a steady stram of water coming from the connection. I deduced that there had to be a leak between the water inlet and the venturi system. I figured it must be a leaking o-ring, scored disc or a bad seal. I decided to get brave and take the main valve apart to see what it looked like. I was amazed at how simple it was to take it apart and perform an inspection of the internal parts. I had first checked the parts breakdown in my user's manual to see the various parts and in which order they went into the valve body. I went to the hardware store and purchased some food grade silicone grease to apply a thin coat to the o-rings and seals. First I unplugged the power from the unit. Then I turned off the water supply into the unit using the cutoff valve. I then opened the hot and cold faucets at the sink . Then I placed the water softener in the bypass mode. I took these steps so the system would be de-pressurized. I worked on one side of the valve at a time. There was no evidence of scratches or damage on the discs. The o-rings and seals looked good to me. I lubed them up with the silicone grease, re-installed the parts in the proper order and placed it back in service mode. The water had stopped flowing from the venturi connection where the brine hoses screws in. It has been several days and so far I have experienced no further problems with water in the brine tank.

Hello to anyone that can advise; I need to replace the plastic lid on the well softner container - cannot seem to find one any ideas?

I have a ECR3000R30 that is leaking. The water test is good just leaks all the time. Would a rebuilt kit be in order. If so i will need a part # to order it. Thanks P47

Greetings, I have the similar Eco but it is a R20 don't know if it matters however, I had the same problem here is the answer: It is your inlet disc #7078591 in your manual. I am trying to find one for sale but can not thus far. I fixed the problem for two years by taking it out and using non-toxic water glue to seal the cracks in it. So always depressurize then open up the valve assembly, it will pop due to pressure, the inlet disc has to be pulled out and examined thoroughly you should find cracks or it broken. You will find the part listed in your manual if you have one or you may get off line. Hope this helps.

Josh

I have a ERR3300R20 and it seems to be going through potassium very fast. Three bags in one month. It sounds like it is constantly running as well. Do you have any advice for me. Thank you.

Scottie

I am about to scrap my 3000 R20 +Plus because the brine tank keeps filling-up.
I had serviced the venturi and it's filters, the brine filler and re-lubricated the valve faces but still no joy.
Being a DIY I have a hard time justifying $500-600 for another unit (the Ecowater being VERY overpriced and will not be purchased again) for something that seems like it could be fixed.
Saturday morning, decided to give it another go and then I saw it, water dripping from the top of the resin tank, down the side, into the brine tank. Probably was dripping behind the resin tank before which was why I did not see it. This would also explain why the top of the resin tank was wet and shows some resin residue. I thought the water was from the valve when I disassembled it and the resin from a spill when the installer filled the tank.

Now I know how to proceed and hope this 'discovery' is helpful to someone else.
I would recommend wrapping a paper towel around the resin tank to detect if there is a leak where you cannot see it.
You may all want to know that the owners manual can be found here: http://www.portasoftnj.com/docs/ECO3000.pdf

Hmm. I see your Eco Water 3000 is big and best. We cant through it as. According to me you go to the agency from where you buy it. If they dont make any change. then You take hard and legal action against them

I just stumbled onto this site. Here is my dilemma - I have a ECR3000R-30. Date code is 06282. My water pressure went way down a couple of days ago so I thought maybe something went wrong with the water softener since the well sounded like it was kicking on & off like it should. I pushed the bypass & my pressure came back up but soon I started getting sand through the faucets - a lot of sand. Apparently the screen in my well is shot. So, if I filled my softener with sand, is it cleanable or did I ruin it? thanks for your help.

My ECO 300 R70 is also from 1996. I wonder you have whole rebuild kit available. How many resin my ECO needs .

Just saw this post. Do you still have the Echo water system?

You can reach me at [email protected]

Hi all,

I have read this series of replies with great interest, as I also have an Ecowater System Model 3002 R40 installed new in 1996 that is starting to show its age (aren't we all?). Serial number 1467. Lately, the unit has developed a constant leak out of the main valve assembly of the unit. the leak is contained to the valve assembly, and the drain hose is channeling it to the drain... But it's a steady leak.

My water quality is good, via a deep personal well; I believe it's a cracked o-ring or gasket seal inside the valve unit itself.

My question would be how easy would this be to fix? I did build the house myself, so I know how to fix stuff, but the idea of shutting off the water to the house and fully disassembling the unit does give me a pause. I don't have a bypass valve.

Do you know where in the world I'd be able to locate a gasket kit for this unit even? It's quite old, right? I was, however, surprised to find o-ring replacements for the screen assembly at my local Sears parts store two years ago. That was nice.

Thoughts? Can the main valve assembly be broken apart and reassembled easily? Think I'm diagnosing the problem correctly?

Much thanks!

Steve in Rosemount, MN USA

I have an EcoWater softer 3000 and the bar does''t move. Replaced the Venturi but still nothing. The usage per gallon shows 0. Do you know what is wrong anyone. Should the hadle be in service or bypass mode? can't tell which?

Hi Dave ,

Where are you located? My EcoWater system is down and I can't find anyone who wants to repair it. If you could give me a price or let me know how I can locate a repair guy that would help me a lot. My system is 14 years ole and has been used heavily so I am thinking it is time to replace it.
Thanks,
BMac in VA
[email protected]

I have an Ecowater ERR 3000-R20 and it's been working great but recently I noticed the message screen says "Error 1" and "service required". I'm pretty handy but don't know where to start to diagnose what might be going on. The water coming out of the tap seems to be building scale in the clear teapot we use which is typically a sign that we've run out of salt in the brine tank but the tank is half full and looks normal. Can anyone give me any ideas of what it might be?

Can anyone send a picture of their circuit board.

hello is this for the 3000 r20 plus ?