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Rainsoft reinstall questions

 
 
kmt1001
 
Reply Tue 24 Jun, 2008 07:40 pm
Hi all! I'm new here, but found you while trying to find some help with the setup of an older rainsoft system. A friend was kind enough to give me one that she no longer needed due to the fact that she has city water now. I however have well water that's high in PH and manganese. It's a dual tank system, model #'s RF1044C and AM744T. I need to make sure that we are installing it properly. If someone could either forward me an installation manual or perhaps list step by step instruction it would be appreciated. Thank you so much in advance for your help!!!!
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Type: Discussion • Score: 1 • Views: 3,248 • Replies: 22
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H2O MAN
 
  1  
Reply Wed 25 Jun, 2008 08:13 am
High Ph? What is the Ph?

You have a small 7x44 softener and a 10x44 carbon filter with a back washing valve.

The 10x44 will be installed first. the inlet is the pipe that enter the valve center rear.
The outlet exits the side of the valve and turns back.
You will want to rebed the tank before installation. GAC or Neutralizer as needed.
The softener follows the filter and the inlet & outlet are in the same configuration.
The brine/salt tank is attached to the tri-guard via a small black plastic line.

Let me know if that helps and if you need more help, H2O MAN



_________________
My H2O quality improvement career began in 1988 and I have provided free consulting online since 1993.

WHAT CAN H2O MAN DO FOR YOU?
0 Replies
 
kmt1001
 
  1  
Reply Tue 15 Jul, 2008 03:09 pm
PH and rainsoft
I meant low PH, it's 6.0 and I need it to be 6.5 at least. I'm also very high in manganese, .08, need to be .05.

Now we have the rainsoft system hooked up...I think properly. Can you explain how the water is supposed to flow through the system? When does it cycle through the brine tank?
0 Replies
 
Andy CWS
 
  1  
Reply Tue 15 Jul, 2008 05:33 pm
Sorry, I answerd your other post before this one.

H20man. are you sure she has a carbon filter or a nuetralizer? The former customer was on well water. Her pH is low. Just made me think.

Andy Christensen, CWS-II
0 Replies
 
kmt1001
 
  1  
Reply Wed 16 Jul, 2008 05:08 am
Can you answer a basic question for me? will this system address both the PH and the manganese issue?
0 Replies
 
Andy CWS
 
  1  
Reply Wed 16 Jul, 2008 06:30 am
kmt1001 wrote:
Can you answer a basic question for me? will this system address both the PH and the manganese issue?



No, I cannot answer that question until you clearly describe your equipment and, especially, the media that the tanks contain. Moreover, I cannot answer your question without knowing the age of your system as it is used and may be shot. No, I cannot answer your question until the settings of the units match your water quality which I am unaware. Yes, you have low pH but does the tank have Calcite media in it? Calcite plus Magnesium oxide?

How hard is your water? Is the manganese soluable or insoluable? A quality softener can remove dissolved manganese

Whenever a person gets used equipment from another, it is rarely appropriate for the new environment unless special considerations are taken and adjustments made.

I have a pair of used boots, will they fit you? No idea. Would you buy them? Of course not. Water systems are some of the hardest working items you have in your home. They struggle daily to keep up with demand, make major changes in water quality, have a shelf-life and are in need of constant repair and/or maintenance.

If I said: Yes, it will work fine for you, I would be shooting myself in the head and you may come back later and tell me I was full of it. So a basic answer to a basic question would be: NO.

It may work, but...
My suggestion: Call Rainsoft and have them come out a do a service call. It won't be free--you didn't buy it from them--but at least you get a qualified technician to answer your question.

Good luck on that system. It may be a good deal after all, but avoid taking more shortcuts if you want quality water.

Andy Christensen, CWS-II
0 Replies
 
Andy CWS
 
  1  
Reply Wed 16 Jul, 2008 06:32 am
kmt1001 wrote:
Can you answer a basic question for me? will this system address both the PH and the manganese issue?



No, I cannot answer that question until you clearly describe your equipment and, especially, the media that the tanks contain. Moreover, I cannot answer your question without knowing the age of your system as it is used and may be shot. No, I cannot answer your question until the settings of the units match your water quality which I am unaware. Yes, you have low pH but does the tank have Calcite media in it? Calcite plus Magnesium oxide?

How hard is your water? Is the manganese soluable or insoluable? A quality softener can remove dissolved manganese

Whenever a person gets used equipment from another, it is rarely appropriate for the new environment unless special considerations are taken and adjustments made.

I have a pair of used boots, will they fit you? No idea. Would you buy them? Of course not. Water systems are some of the hardest working items you have in your home. They struggle daily to keep up with demand, make major changes in water quality, have a shelf-life and are in need of constant repair and/or maintenance.

If I said: Yes, it will work fine for you, I would be shooting myself in the head and you may come back later and tell me I was full of it. So a basic answer to a basic question would be: NO.

It may work, but...
My suggestion: Call Rainsoft and have them come out a do a service call. It won't be free--you didn't buy it from them--but at least you get a qualified technician to answer your question.

Good luck on that system. It may be a good deal after all, but avoid taking more shortcuts if you want quality water.

http://www.rainsoftoftoronto.com/rainsoft-manuals.html
Andy Christensen, CWS-II
0 Replies
 
Gary Slusser
 
  1  
Reply Wed 16 Jul, 2008 10:11 am
Re: PH and rainsoft
kmt1001 wrote:
I meant low PH, it's 6.0 and I need it to be 6.5 at least. I'm also very high in manganese, .08, need to be .05.

Now we have the rainsoft system hooked up...I think properly. Can you explain how the water is supposed to flow through the system? When does it cycle through the brine tank?

To correct a low pH you use a solution feeder or backwashed or upflow acid neutralizing filter. You do not have either; you have a carbon filter and a softener. The softener will remove the manganese. You want your pH to be 7.0 or a bit higher, not just 6.5, which is still acidic.

Your softener very possibly adds water to the salt tank as the first position of a regeneration. Then it pauses for some time, like 2 hrs to allow the water to dissolve salt and then it finishes the regeneration by backwashing the bed and sucking salt water from the salt tank and rinsing the bed of excess 'salt' etc.. That last part usually takes about 1 hr to 1.5 hrs..

But your new old softener is not working as you state in another post.
0 Replies
 
H2O MAN
 
  1  
Reply Wed 16 Jul, 2008 10:46 am
Andy CWS wrote:
Sorry, I answerd your other post before this one.

H20man. are you sure she has a carbon filter or a nuetralizer? The former customer was on well water. Her pH is low. Just made me think.

Andy Christensen, CWS-II


RF1044C = RainSoft Filter, 10x44 tank, Carbon





kmy1001, you need at least a 10x54 Acid Neutralizer with a heavy duty control valve that back washes automatically.
The Ph needs to be elevated to between 7.0 & 7.2

Manganese can be reduced by a properly sized, fully functional softener.
0 Replies
 
Andy CWS
 
  1  
Reply Wed 16 Jul, 2008 01:31 pm
Thanks for the decoding. Sometimes it's too simple. Yes, she need to rebed it as a neutralizer. Do other settings have to be made for backwash flow rate, time and sequence?

Andy Christensen, CWS-II
0 Replies
 
Gary Slusser
 
  1  
Reply Thu 17 Jul, 2008 02:04 pm
Andy CWS wrote:
Thanks for the decoding. Sometimes it's too simple. Yes, she need to rebed it as a neutralizer. Do other settings have to be made for backwash flow rate, time and sequence?

Andy Christensen, CWS-II


No they can't dump the carbon and add AN mineral without changing some other parts, and recall that the valves are not made anymore? Also the tank is too small for use as an AN filter with their pH and probably their family size, number of bathrooms and type of fixtures etc., like a need for the carbon filter.
0 Replies
 
H2O MAN
 
  1  
Reply Thu 17 Jul, 2008 02:21 pm
Sorry Slusser ~

Yes, the RF1044C can be converted to an Acid Neutralizer by a simple media re bed, but it's really too small for the job.
The RF valve is the same for all RainSoft filters of that time.
It will work, but I like at least 1.5 cubic feet of media in Acid Neutralizers.
0 Replies
 
Gary Slusser
 
  1  
Reply Thu 17 Jul, 2008 11:40 pm
You are forgetting about the DLFC, and possibly the bottom distributor basket.

The DLFC gpm is more than a bit different for a carbon filter than for an AN filter due to the much heavier AN mineral but... yes, physically they can put AN mineral in the tank but the filter is not going to work, and they may end up with small pieces of mineral in their plumbing; so I simply say they can't do that.
0 Replies
 
H2O MAN
 
  1  
Reply Fri 18 Jul, 2008 05:09 am
Gary Slusser wrote:
You are forgetting about the DLFC, and possibly the bottom distributor basket.


No.

You are forgetting that I know so much more about the old brass RainSoft valves than you.
You are not really qualified to give advice on these.
0 Replies
 
Gary Slusser
 
  1  
Reply Fri 18 Jul, 2008 11:11 am
Maybe you forget that I have built thousands of softeners and backwashed or regenerated filters. Or that I too have worked on many Rain Soft softeners and filters and that I know there is a DLFC (drain line flow control) on each and every control valve in the world, including Rain Soft, and that you can not successfully backwash heavy AN mineral with the DLFC button used to backwash very light weight carbon; including when using the same size tank.
0 Replies
 
H2O MAN
 
  1  
Reply Fri 18 Jul, 2008 11:32 am
You are still giving incorrect advise.
0 Replies
 
Gary Slusser
 
  1  
Reply Fri 18 Jul, 2008 08:07 pm
Every softener or filter has a DLFC (drain line flow control) and they are rated in gpm. The gpm rating is different for the individual size of the tank used AND for the type and volume of resin or mineral in the softener or filter.

The reason for that is the specific gpm required to backwash the varied volume of resin or mineral.
0 Replies
 
H2O MAN
 
  1  
Reply Sat 19 Jul, 2008 06:46 am
Once again:

You are forgetting that I know so much more about the old brass RainSoft valves than you.
You are not really qualified to give advice on these.
0 Replies
 
kmt1001
 
  1  
Reply Tue 22 Jul, 2008 06:38 pm
Ok...now not for nothing but it would appear that there seems to be an argument everytime you guys all get on the same answer, so please can we not have that here.

Now, here's the continuation of my fun and games with the water system. Our "friends" at rainsoft, came out and changed the charcoal medium tank over to a calcite medium. And connected the system on Friday. The water test was yesterday. It passed for PH with flying colors...and failed manganese miserably.

Now after spending nearly $800 to have them come out and do a system check, a reinstall (keep in mind that all the plumbing was run up to the tank) and a change of filter medium. They're telling me that it may now be an additional $650 to rebed the softener tank?!?!

How bad are they trying to screw me?
0 Replies
 
Gary Slusser
 
  1  
Reply Wed 23 Jul, 2008 09:38 am
kmt1001 wrote:
Now, here's the continuation of my fun and games with the water system. Our "friends" at rainsoft, came out and changed the charcoal medium tank over to a calcite medium. And connected the system on Friday. The water test was yesterday. It passed for PH with flying colors...and failed manganese miserably.

Now after spending nearly $800 to have them come out and do a system check, a reinstall (keep in mind that all the plumbing was run up to the tank) and a change of filter medium. They're telling me that it may now be an additional $650 to rebed the softener tank?!?!

How bad are they trying to screw me?

I would have sold you a new 1.5' (10x54" TDH tank) AN filter, with a Clack WS-1 control and by pass valve and a top dome hole tank so you can add mineral without removing the control valve each time, for a delivered price of less than $700.

You can buy new resin for like $100/cuft delivered to your door. It takes maybe an hour for a DIYer to replace resin.

So I think you've already been had but you'll have to judge that yourself.
0 Replies
 
 

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