Whole House Water Systems

Great.. thanks...

The formula is 7.85 mg/l per gpg of ion exchange. Ten gpg water would have 78.5 mg of added sodium per roughly a quart of water softened water. A glass of skim milk has roughly 5 times that, a slice of white bread 120-160 mg of sodium etc..

I do not support running raw water to a kitchen sink but do so to outside faucets if possible.

Installation is simple plumbing in and out and takes maybe 2.5-3 hours with assembling the unit. The Clack WS-1 control valve is an excellent choice for a DIYer.

I am thinking about getting this setup.

Our water tested at 425 ppm or (25 gpg)

Water Filter http://www.waterfilter-usa.com/pc600-premium-whole-house-water-filter-13-bathrooms-p-267.html

Softener http://www.waterfilter-usa.com/pelican-advantage-series-24000-grain-softener-p-320.html

I will be using potassium for the softener.

Thoughts? Am I going in the right direction?

There is only 2 people in my household. So I did the math from another site and I came up with needing about 22000 grain.

I havent tested for Iron, but I doubt its an issue.

What is a link to your site? So I can look more at how to size it.

What do you think about that filter? It seems cheaper since the $156 media every 5 years as compared to a Aquasana Rhino where I have to replace a $$640 tank every 3 years.

There are numerous sites to help determine the sizing of a water softener.


http://www.watervalue.com/fleckCapacitySetup.html

http://www.pure-earth.com/softcalc.html

http://www.qualitywatertreatment.com/water_softener_sizing.htm

These should help you understand how single-tank softeners are set up. Twin tank softeners use different parameters.

Andy Christensen, CWS-II

I suspect you know that a number of posts in this thread have been deleted, but I helped him find what he needed.

Those links, none mention anything about the SFR part of sizing a softener. BTW, I have helped customers from two of those three sites to program their softeners because they were told to use the default settings of the control valve.... and they aren't told how to change them.

Deleted? Hadn't noticed. Why were they deleted? Did I write something inappropriate? Sorry about that.

Why was my last post deleted? Now I forgot where I was in the planning process.

I was asking how to size properly for potassium.


Using a 24000 grain softener, what size cuft should I use when using potassium to get good efficiency?

Andy can help you with that, he's allowed to post links, he reports me when I do that.

I guess I will end my quest for advice on a softener here on this board since the admins took it upon themselfs to make my search even harder than it was to find out all the details I needed.

I still dont know what size to get. Thanks to all who tried to help tho.

I think Im going with a 2.5 cuft and a 44000 grain as my water hardness is at like 1000ppm

You can always Google... sizing a water softener

EvilFubAr,

Did you get any information from the sites I listed before?

There are a few options you could follow. If you go with a single tank electric metered system., you would safe with a 9" tank with one cubic foot of resin. The regeneration and reserve capacity settings could be adjusted to fit your needs.

This would regenerate about every four days at a high salt efficiency.

If you went with twin tank systems, there is a much different method of sizing the equipment.

I have no influence, let alone control, over which posts get deleted or which members get banned for inappropriate behavior. Those that are affected by moderators' decisions usually know what has happened--and why--better than anyone else. Here, I haven't got a clue. So I can't help you there.

Andy Christensen, CWS-II

If he buys a Clack WS-1, he doesn't figure a reserve but a 1 cuft only has a 9 gpm constant SFR..


That type softener should regenerate once every 8 days on average. Every 4 days would use roughly twice the volume of water.


They still need to be sized for the constant SFR of the number and type of fixtures/house and family.


You do when you play moderator and report posts; if needed I have proof that you are doing that here and on other forums.

Anyone can, and should report posts. We accept all reports.

Can anyone recommend a decent water test kit that will tell me an accurate ppm of my hardness.

The stupid strips I got go up to 1000, but the colors go from 400 to 1000 so I really cant get an accurate reading. Plus my colors didnt even match close to anything on the chart. Im assuming my water is off the chart hard.

I did test for iron and got pretty much 0 reading.

How important is testing for magenese?

and btw, I never said anything abusive. Id like to know if I did.

For a one-time usage, buying a test kit may not be the best route. Call a local water professional and they will give a free test (along with an equipment recommendation and quote, no doubt).

Some stores will allow you to bring in a sample and test it for you there. I agree that test strips are not very accurate. Although manganese can be an important contaminant and can also be challenging to remove, the vast majority of cases, it is quite minimal and easily managed by a properly-sized softener.

I'm sure yout didn't say anything offensive or abusive. Not to worry. Those who are interested in helping you will continue to do so.

Andy Christensen, CWS-II