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Replacing Hollow Doors

 
 
Montana
 
Reply Mon 8 Oct, 2007 09:24 am
I'm doing some work in our kitchen and we ordered 2 doors to replace the older doors. I've never put up new doors, but I've seen them do it on home improvement shows, but never with hollow doors.

I need to know how to cut and prepare hollow doors. Can I use a regular skill/circular saw to cut the bottom of the door to fit?

Do I prepare the door for the hinges like I would a solid door, or is it done differently?

All help would very much be appreciated :-D
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Tico
 
  1  
Reply Mon 8 Oct, 2007 11:29 am
Hey, Montana! You doing doors instead of turkey today? Very Happy

I've never actually installed doors, myself (mainly because tools do not get along with me), but I do know that hollow doors have a solid frame around the perimeter. They call the horizontal pieces "rails" and the vertical pieces "stiles". The bottom rail should be about 6" high. (Tap the door with your knuckle and listen for the sound difference to find where the rail ends.)

I think it should be okay to cut off up to 2" from the top or bottom without weakening the frame. The problem comes if you are re-using an existing door jamb -- the door pull (the knob) strike, on the door, will not line up with the existing strike plate, on the jamb, and you will have to move the plate. But if the door and jamb are not predrilled for these, then it won't matter.

Hinges should be the same for hollow or solid core doors. 2 hinges for a hollow core door are fine. Solid core doors sometimes are better for 3.

Don't forget to seal the cut surfaces of the door (with paint or something) so the door does not warp, later.

Happy Thanksgiving!
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roger
 
  1  
Reply Mon 8 Oct, 2007 01:44 pm
What Tico said. The saw cut would be neater if done, or at least finished, with a router and straight edge, though I wouldn't run out and buy a good router for the purpose.

Use wedges to position the door in the doorway, if it's not prehung, especially if you are doing the job by yourself.
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Montana
 
  1  
Reply Mon 8 Oct, 2007 05:50 pm
Thanks you guys. Just me and mom for Thanksgiving this year and my time is limited, so I need to keep on truckin.

I didn't work very hard today as it's not an easy task when you stuff your face and need a nap Laughing

Happy Thanksgiving to you too Tico and all. I know it's only Thanksgiving here, but you guys get Columbus day :-D
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JTT
 
  1  
Reply Mon 12 Nov, 2007 08:31 pm
Re: Replacing Hollow Doors
Montana wrote:
I'm doing some work in our kitchen and we ordered 2 doors to replace the older doors. I've never put up new doors, but I've seen them do it on home improvement shows, but never with hollow doors.

I need to know how to cut and prepare hollow doors. Can I use a regular skill/circular saw to cut the bottom of the door to fit?

I hope I'm not too late. Yes. you can, Montana, with a steady hand.

Measure the doors to make sure that they are close enough in size for the new one to replace the old.

VERY IMPORTANT: Remember to check to find the hinge side and the latch side. The latch side is cut at a small angle to the face of the door so it will have some clearance when it approaches the jamb but when it's closed it won't have too wide a space.

The hinge side is 90 degrees to the face of the door. Don't mix these up or you'll have a mess. The hinge stile needs a surface that's perpendicular, 90 degrees to the faces of the door.

Figure out which is the hinge side, stand the door up to the old jamb, visualizing which way it will swing, then write TOP on the top of the door.

Never trim the top of a door. Always take what's need off the bottom. As Tico said, there is a solid piece around the perimeter for strength and to mount the hardware. You could conceivably cut off half the door, from the bottom.

IMPORTANT: Before you make your cut, scribe a line thru the skin facing and cut just to the waste side of the line by 1/16th of an inch. With the fibres of the thin plywood facing cut thru, you won't lift them during the cut and you'll have a neater edge that will clean up with a few strokes of sandpaper.

You then need to replace a solid piece at the bottom of the door. Carpenters run the one inch by 1 and 3/8 inch piece thru a tablesaw taking off only the plywood facing from each side of the bottom rail.

Then you can slip the bottom rail back into the hollow space at the bottom of the door and glue it with yellow carpenters glue.

DO NOT TRY TO DO THIS WITH A CIRCULAR. FINGERS ARE HARD TO CLEAN OFF AND SEW BACK ON!!!!! AND YOU CAN NEVER FIND JUST THE RIGHT SHADE OF THREAD WHEN YOU REALLY NEED IT. PAY A PROFESSIONAL TO DO IT.

If the cut has been made well, the fit should be tight and the glue will be more than enough to hold it.

There will be some cardboard "snakes" that are used to stiffen the doors that you'll have to gouge out; it's an easy job with a sharp chisel.



Do I prepare the door for the hinges like I would a solid door, or is it done differently?

For ease of construction, I'd use the same hinges and the same jamb. Measure from the TOP of the door to the top of the first hinge, an exact measurement, to a sixteenth of an inch. Then take the hinge off the jamb/old door and place the top of it in the position of your exact mark.

With a very sharp pencil, trace the hinge, remembering that a hinge overhangs a door. If the old door and the new door are both the same thickness, then just follow the old overhang. Remember to keep all components in a position that replicates the old door.

That mark, TOP, meaning the top of the door, combined with an arrow, --->, pointing to the hinge side can save you a great measure of grief.

CUTTING THE HINGE POCKETS: After you've marked the hinge with a sharp pencil, then place it on those marks and cut a line with a sharp exacto knife all around the hinge.

The actual plowing out is best done with a router set to the hinge thickness. Going a c-hair deeper is not critical because you can always add some paper or light cardboard shims.

If you don't have a router, borrow one. If you can't borrow one, burn down your house and move into an apartment.

Just kiddin'.

After you succeed in borrowing a router don't cut right up to the scored edges of the hinge lands. Stay away a 1/4" or so. it's easy to plow those out after with a wood chisel and you won't risk some extra router loops outside the hinge edges.

With a deft hand and a very sharp 3/4" or broader wood chisel, you can cut out the hinge lands. Using a broad chisel will help keep you from gouging a bunch of runnels.


Good luck!

All help would very much be appreciated :-D
0 Replies
 
JTT
 
  1  
Reply Mon 12 Nov, 2007 08:42 pm
roger wrote:


Use wedges to position the door in the doorway, if it's not prehung, especially if you are doing the job by yourself.


Oh, I forgot to add and Roger's comment here reminded me.

You can of course, wedge the door in the jamb but if you're really careful with that first measurement you can then hang the door with the hinge mounted on the first hinge plow, then move the door into position, place the second hinge, which is still hung on the jamb, on the correct position on the door, mark it with a sharp pencil, remove the door and plow out the 2nd hinge recess.

On the first hinge measurement, it might be best to wedge it at the top the distance that the door clearance will be from the jamb. Then you take or height down measurement or simply mark it off using the hinge itself.
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Montana
 
  1  
Reply Tue 13 Nov, 2007 12:51 pm
JTT, thankfully, you're not too late. All the twists and turns in my life set me back in doing the work in the house, but it does get done, slowly, but surely.
I just finished the kitchen with the exception of the doors and floors. I'll be putting in laminate flooring, so I need to keep that in mind when cutting my doors, although I could always take a bit off the bottom later.
I do have the doors, but it'll be a while before I put them on because I want to finish all my work downstars first and do the floors and doors last.

this reminds me that I need to head to my chair rail thread and let everyone know it went very well.

JTT,
I can't thank you enough for your detailed instructions and I will be printing this out when I'm ready to put them in. I also bought a DVD I've yet to watch on placing new doors.
Gotta do it right because we all know how expensive those damn things are.
If I screw up the doors, I'll think about your suggestion on burning the house down, haha!

Reminds myself to buy a router. Tools are real cheap in the winter and I need one anyway :-D

Anyone love tools as much as I do?

I know, I'm a crazy broad Laughing

Thanks again :-D
0 Replies
 
JTT
 
  1  
Reply Tue 13 Nov, 2007 07:47 pm
What kind of doors are the old doors, Montana?

Is this that house that you were asking about some time ago where you wanted to know how to set up the plumbing so you could leave it all winter with a freezeup?
0 Replies
 
Montana
 
  1  
Reply Wed 14 Nov, 2007 09:31 am
The old doors are just standard hollow doors. looks like they ran out of funds at some point because the house is built very well and it's just the finish work that's a bit cheap.

No, it's not the house I was talking about before. That's a later project I have in mind in building a log cabin.
0 Replies
 
dadpad
 
  1  
Reply Wed 14 Nov, 2007 05:53 pm
A couple of canadians have set up a business building log homes in my town

http://www.greatbearloghomes.com.au/

Doing quite nicely too from all reports.
0 Replies
 
Montana
 
  1  
Reply Wed 14 Nov, 2007 07:29 pm
Very cool Dadpad! If I was younger, I'd be building them too :-D

My dream has always been to build at least one log home and I'm determined to do it before I get too old.

Those birthdays are coming way too fast! Shocked
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