Water Softner Help

Enting might be using a Fleck control valve. Or is it Autotrol?

The small 3/8" tubing from the control valve to the brine tank is the brine line. The fitting on the side of the brine tank is a tank overflow drain line connection but most people don't connect a piece of drain line to it because they have no where to run it for overflow water; you have a sump pump hole. Water would flow if it got high enough in the salt tank and the piece of drain line would prevent it form overflowing on to the floor.

Make sure the control is plugged into a good receptacle and set the time of day correctly. Then look at the face of the control and describe it here and goto www.fleckconrols.com and see if you can see a picture of your control so you know what valve you have. Then I or someone else can tell you what to do; like a manual regeneration. Doesn't your manual tell you how to do that? I suspect you have no manual, right? That's why you need to know what control you have. You could visit my web site softeners page looking for a picture of your control.

Re: Water Softner Help


Looks like this is the manufacturer of your softener and they are in Dayton, Ohio ... http://www.enting.com/index.php

They have contact info at their web site or here's their toll-free phone number... 888-436-8464.

Contact them and they can point you to a manual or a servicing dealer.

And if they don't help, or you don't want to pay the service call charge for someone to do what you want to do yourself, since you could have searched the internet for Enting already... find out what control valve you have and let us know. One of us can tell you what and how to do it.

It never hurts to ask and costs NOTHING.

Yeah I recall what you said about the owner and his dealers after contacting the manufacturer of your previous twin tank softener. Maybe Rocket will have a better experience than you did.

Rocket couldn't do worse than my experience, but the manufacturer is the place to start to identify exactly what he/she has and to get a manual for it. With that information then he/she can decide to call the servicing dealer or TRY to help themselves.

Not all companies are as disinterested in preserving the reputation of their brands and not all water treatment professionals are as lax in providing the service they tout at time of sale to their customers as the manufacturer and dealer of my previous water softener were.

One very bad manufaturer and one even worse local dealer do not condem an entire industry just as one arrogant and combative internet softener seller does not condem all the professional water softener dealers selling on the internet.

Not all professional water treatment dealers sit at their kitchen table and cruise the internet "keyboarding for dollars" and posting personal attacks at every opportunity. Some actually provide service and charge a fair price for it. It's called working for a living and there's nothing wrong with that.

The intentions of many who post on self-help forums is to provide the benefit of knowledge and/or first hand experience to the OP so they may avoid the mistakes many of us have made by dealing with less than professional self-proclaimed professionals.

The intentions of some who post on self-help forums is to use someone else's forum as a schoolyard to form cliques, bully, and attack the other kids and their competition... oh yea, and to make money off someone else's investment.

So Gary, how about you keep your posts on point and helpful without resorting to personal attacks? Dazzle us with the CONTENT of your posts and not your willingness and ability to start fights, attack people, and further your own agenda on these forums. If you want to be a bully then you have your own closed and regulated forum to do so. Leave us to try to help one another in peace with mutual respect and consideration.

It is autotrol,I put salt in the tank and put the red push and turn dial on regenerate came back cpl hrs later and there was about 6 inches or so of water above the salt.The dial now is in the conditioned water position,and the red digital number where it says water flow is 8(whats this mean?).I cannot figure out how to set time or date.How do I know if I have conditioned water now? Thanks for the help.Sorry it took so long in the middle of all this my dang hot water heater took a dump,if its not one thing its the other.

oh and yes i did contact enting through their website 2 weeks ago they are just interested in selling me a new unit and not fixing this one.Im the type if some other human learned how to repair these things then so can I.Why just last month i became 1st time home owner since then i have become A drywall man,painter,carpetcleaner/installer,lanscaper,hotwater heater installer,and with the help of some of you might become a watersoftner fixer guy.Dont want to pay some for something i can do myself.

Forgive me if you've already found this... Enting has manuals posted for download at their web site. They might help you identify exactly what control valve you have...

http://www.enting.com/manuals.php


And here's a link to an independent DIY diagnose and repair page for Fleck and Autotrol. They have parts diagrams and they sell parts...

http://softenerparts.zoovy.com/category/0600/

justalurker you call me unprofessional, combative, unhelpful, a theif, a bully and accuse me of not servicing what I sell etc.. I see that as you attacking me.

You launch the attack and then don't like it when I respond. I respond with generalities and you see those statements as defining you, that's your problem. If the posts fit then...

unprofessional, never said you
combative, absolutely
thief, NEVER, EVER said that although you can't spell "thief"
bully, your posts speak for themselves
not servicing what you sell, said no on-site service from any internet seller

Get your facts straight.

How about not attacking anyone and keeping posts on point? Apparently that escaped you in my post?

The amount of water in the brine tank is dictated by the salt dose in lbs of salt. So we don't know if the control sucked brine water out of the tank or not. Unless you have soft water now, it didn't. That means it added the water it was supposed to have sucked out during the brine draw/slow rinse position of the regeneration. That's not good and will cause slat water to over flow on to the floor eventually.

If the water isn't soft, you can buy a hardness test kit at big box or hardware or swimming pool stores, or take a sample to Sears or a water treatment dealer.

The usual causes of too much water in the brine tank are: loose brine line connections, a blocked injector or injector filter screen, kinked/blocked/frozen drain line.

Do not over tighten brine line compression fitting nuts, that is the primary cause of compression fitting (air) leaks. You can test for that by putting the control in brine draw and watching for air bubbles in the brine line moving toward the control valve. Or watch the air check on the side of the control. The injector is on the right side of the control and the screen is on the left side. You can take both out and run a coat hanger etc. through from one side to the other to clean any rust build up out of the passage. You can also take the drain line flow control (ball) fitting out and clean that area. Of course you shut off your water to the softener and open/close a faucet to release pressure before doing any of that.

If the brine line allows air to be sucked instead of heavy brine water, remove the brine line on each end and cut off a 1/2" to 1" of brine line and then put them back on and tighten the nuts hand tight and then 3/4 to a full turn with pliers or a wrench and quit. Check for air bubbles and tighten if needed.

Then put the control into brine draw and watch for water to be sucked out of the brine tank. If the water level goes down, it moves very slowly, then you've fixed the problem. If not, then get back to me.

You can take the cover off the control and rotate the cam shaft CCW from the face of the control instead of using the red button and a screw driver. If you don't keep the red button depressed, and you turn it, you break the gears inside the timer, then you replace the timer.

As to the 8... it could be gpm but if flashing it means someone is using water and the meter is tracking the water use toward the next regeneration. I am not that familiar with the Autotrol electronic timers. You'll have to find out what timer you have, there are a few, and then get the master dealer programming instructions if this stuff isn't in the regular manual. Usually setting the time is but, you shouldn't have to set the day.

You can find a local dealer that services Autotrol to come out and explain everything and set it up for your family size and water use.

Let me know how it goes.

Yep, have a professional come to your home and fix it.

Thank you all, a guy from a local water company is going to come and check it out for me.

Rocket,

Please let us know what you find out so others can learn from your experience.