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Need Chain Saw Reccomendation

 
 
Reply Sun 18 Mar, 2007 07:45 pm
I need your experiences and recommendations for a serious chain saw. What I would like is to purchase a professional full time saw but am trying to avoid its cost.

Presently I have a Poulan-Pro 295 series (20" bar) and it is OK but I recently, by mistake, put the wrong size chain when I replaced the chain. The only different spec in the new chain was the depth gauge which was apparently designed for a deeper cut. It didn't fit quite correctly, but I thought, what the hell. Other than making a bit more noise than usual (apparently the sprocket and corresponding sprocket holes in the chain don't line up quite right -- thus the added noise) the damn saw loved this chain--and so did I! The saw cut through even green oak, literally, like warm butter and the engine seemed happier with this chain then the stock (correct) chain.

What I'm looking for is a saw that can take all day use and abuse cutting thru oak and other hardwoods. Not much dirt exposure is encountered but it is important that this saw can be user service easily in the field, especially, air filter, plug, and chain changes. I'm not interested in taking this thing to the shop every time these things must be maintained or changed.

A 20" bar is ideal but a unit that has the horse power for slightly larger bars is fine as long as it is easily serviceable and the unit is rugged. This saw has to be able to withstand full throttle operation all day long. Any body had experience with Husqvarna? Don't mind extra cost if it reflects value.

Thanks,

JM
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Type: Discussion • Score: 0 • Views: 2,704 • Replies: 14
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H2O MAN
 
  1  
Reply Sun 18 Mar, 2007 08:01 pm
.



Husqvarna
0 Replies
 
dadpad
 
  1  
Reply Sun 18 Mar, 2007 10:14 pm
Re: Need Chain Saw Reccomendation
GET OUT OF THE FOREST BEFORE YOU HURT YOURSELF - OR WORSE - SOMEONE ELSE!
0 Replies
 
fishin
 
  1  
Reply Mon 19 Mar, 2007 11:32 am
Personally, I like the Stihl chainsaws.

Being able to cut cleanly through trees is more a function of the chain being sharp than the saw itself though.
0 Replies
 
2PacksAday
 
  1  
Reply Mon 19 Mar, 2007 01:58 pm
fishin wrote:
Being able to cut cleanly through trees is more a function of the chain being sharp than the saw itself though.



Very true, a properly sharpened chain will override horsepower in most cases.

Husqvarna would be my brand of choice, such a sweet saw.
0 Replies
 
cjhsa
 
  1  
Reply Mon 19 Mar, 2007 02:01 pm
Re: Need Chain Saw Reccomendation
dadpad wrote:
GET OUT OF THE FOREST BEFORE YOU HURT YOURSELF - OR WORSE - SOMEONE ELSE!


Why would you say such a thing? Have you been out booby trapping trees again?
0 Replies
 
dadpad
 
  1  
Reply Mon 19 Mar, 2007 06:20 pm
Re: Need Chain Saw Reccomendation
cjhsa wrote:
dadpad wrote:
GET OUT OF THE FOREST BEFORE YOU HURT YOURSELF - OR WORSE - SOMEONE ELSE!


Why would you say such a thing? Have you been out booby trapping trees again?


Because this person has no idea how to operate or maintain a chainsaw.
People die using chainsaws. Idiots like this give the industry a bad name, bad insurance record, and usually end up hurting people.

Depth gauges have nothing to do with the problem this guy experienced. if he used the wrong sized chain a replacement bar, sprocket and chain would fix the problem. The original chain was probable a low profile chain. Used to stop dills like this one hurting themselves.

At the very least go and do a course on saw maintanance.
0 Replies
 
dadpad
 
  1  
Reply Mon 19 Mar, 2007 06:24 pm
Re: Need Chain Saw Reccomendation
cjhsa wrote:
dadpad wrote:
GET OUT OF THE FOREST BEFORE YOU HURT YOURSELF - OR WORSE - SOMEONE ELSE!


Why would you say such a thing? Have you been out booby trapping trees again?

Chainsaws are close to the most lethal hand tool ever invented
This person has no idea how to operate or maintain a chainsaw.
People die using chainsaws. Idiots like this give the industry a bad name, bad insurance record, and usually end up hurting people.

Depth gauges have nothing to do with the problem this guy experienced. if he used the wrong sized chain a replacement bar, sprocket and chain would fix the problem. The original chain was probable a low profile chain. Used to stop dills like this one hurting themselves.

At the very least go and do a course on saw maintanance.
0 Replies
 
cjhsa
 
  1  
Reply Tue 20 Mar, 2007 08:33 am
Do you think you should have to be licensed to buy one?
0 Replies
 
BumbleBeeBoogie
 
  1  
Reply Tue 20 Mar, 2007 08:40 am
Consumer Report: Chainsaws
Consumer Reports - Safe Chainsaws
10/12/2006 -
Weathering Disaster: Generators and Saws

UP AND RUNNING For comfort, count on running a fridge (600 watts), a portable heater (1,300 watts) or window a/c (1,000 watts), and lights (60-200 watts) simultaneously.

Tornadoes in the East, power outages in the West, and a raft of tropical storms have probably put preparedness on your radar screen. Along with an emergency plan, and a three-day supply of food and water, you might want to consider backup power and a chain saw.

We tested 15 generators and 26 saws to help you prepare for blackouts and fallen branches. Many are better and safer than before. But refueling some generators could be a challenge during an outage, and some saws do less than others to protect you from mishaps and misuse.

Generators: Better, beefier choices. Wheeled, portable generators are the biggest sellers. But you might need plenty of fuel on hand, since filling stations often shut down during blackouts and most home-sized models use 12 to 18 gallons of gasoline per day. You'll also need to preserve that fuel with stabilizer and store it in a well-vented shed or other area, away from the house and any ignition source.

One portable, the Northstar 8000TFG, can use a liquid-propane tank with several days' supply or a natural-gas line. But at $2,000, it's pricey for its wattage.

Stationary, outside-mounted generators are a growing alternative, since they run on propane or natural gas and supply more power. Kohler's $3,700 12RESL delivered more than 10,000 watts and costs less than many in its class.

Using a wattage calculator, which provides an average wattage rating for most common electricity-using household appliances and devices, will help you tally your needs.

Chain saws: Most are safer. Some of the 36,000 chain-saw injuries and 20 deaths each year involve kickback, where the tip snaps up and back toward the user. All tested gasoline saws and many tested electrics now have a brake that quickly stops the chain if kickback occurs.

All tested models have a chain that digs in less aggressively, and most have a narrow-nosed chain bar that reduces the area where kickback occurs. While all are certified by their manufacturers to pass the voluntary industry kickback standard, two otherwise-fine performers--the gas John Deere CS46 and Stihl MS250 C-BE--were judged to kick back more noticeably than others we tested, though not enough for us to lose control. The Deere did so only after we removed its bar-tip guard, which prevents cutting at the tip. But because the tip guard shortens the bar's usable length, owners might be tempted to remove it. Indeed, Deere's instructions note that some saw cuts require removing the guard and simply warn inexperienced users not to attempt such cuts.

HOW TO CHOOSE

For generators, add up your needs. Portable models we tested claimed between 2,800 and 6,600 watts--enough to power plug-in appliances and lights, but not nearly enough for heavy power drains like central air. Add up the watts for the items you need. Then check our Ratings for generators with at least as many measured watts. Figure on $500 to $1,000 for installing stationary generators and, for all types, at least $500 for a power-transfer switch to power hardwired circuits and avoid having to run extension cords.

Also remember that manufacturers often overstate run time for gasoline models by basing it on 50 percent load. Our run times use a more conservative, 80 percent load.

For saws, pick your features. Gas chain saws cut more quickly than electrics and eliminate the power cord. Their faster chain speeds can also ease use by requiring less pressure. But they are heavier and noisier, require pull-starting and tune-ups, and emit exhaust fumes.

Besides a chain brake and other safety features, look for an antivibration system for gas-powered saws. Some models ease starting with a compression-relief valve or, with the Stihl MS180 C-BE, a spring-assist system. The Stihl also lets you adjust the tension of its chain without tools.

How to make damage control a bit less risky

For generators

Run them outdoors and away from the house, never in a basement or garage, to help prevent carbon-monoxide poisoning.

Install a transfer switch to connect the unit to your home's wiring system. Never connect a generator directly to your home.

Reduce fire risk by turning off gasoline-powered generators before refueling them.

Store gasoline in an ANSI-approved container and in a cool, well-ventilated area.

For chain saws

Wear eye and ear protection, gloves, snug-fitting clothing, chaps, boots, and a hard hat with a protective face screen.

Keep the cutting chain properly sharpened, tensioned, and oiled.

Grip the saw with both hands and keep both feet firmly on the ground.

Saw only tree limbs you can reach from the ground. Never saw on a ladder or while holding the saw above your shoulders.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Information used with permission of Consumer Reports. You can visit them on the web at www.ConsumerReports.com
0 Replies
 
H2O MAN
 
  1  
Reply Tue 20 Mar, 2007 08:40 am
cjhsa wrote:
Do you think you should have to be licensed to buy one?


What about concealed carry?
0 Replies
 
dadpad
 
  1  
Reply Tue 20 Mar, 2007 09:58 am
cjhsa wrote:
Do you think you should have to be licensed to buy one?


36,000 chain-saw injuries and 20 deaths each year.

My personal view is yes. Chainsaws are as lethal as cars in the wrong hands.
I day course will teach enough maintenance and safety for the average user.
Of course Idiots would ignore the safety warnings then want to sue because the course was inadequate.

All commercial chainsaw operators are required to be acredited in Australia.
3 levels of certification are available. Trim and cross cut, fall small trees, and fall trees, commercial felling zones.

Domestic operators (weekend wood warriors) are not required to have accreditation in Australia.
0 Replies
 
farmerman
 
  1  
Reply Tue 20 Mar, 2007 10:08 am
I have A Stihl and a Mccullough (the Mccullough isIMHO a POS) but it was a gift .
I bought an inverter operated chain saw sharpening machine to take out into the woods because as said earlier, sharpness trumps anything else. I cut alot of Forewood and an arborist showed me how to cut so the chainsaw doesnt bind or kickback. I do wear a face shield and hard hat and really dorky gloves (I only have 8 fingers left so each one is precious).
0 Replies
 
JamesMorrison
 
  1  
Reply Tue 27 Mar, 2007 11:49 am
Thanks to all for their input and advice. Presently Husqvarna and Stihl are at the top of the list for now. Stihl is interesting since I have seen it advertised in the Wall Street Journal, you don't often come across ads for gasoline-powered tools in that venue. I suspect it is the company's two-pronged effort to both increase brand exclusivity and strengthen stock price. Mr. Stihl, of course, is credited with designing and making the first chain saw. Seems this product has worked out much better than Tim The Tool Man's gas powered garbage disposal or gas turbine riding lawn mower.

Husqvarna's web site is quite helpful in organizing all the choices and accessories, comparisons are easily made here.

About the ill-fitting chain: In my own defense when the chain was installed I really thought I had the correct chain. The label on the back of the packaging said Poulan 295 the length was correct and when installed the chain tensioned up nicely and was easy to move around the bar as per usual. The only hint of an ill fit was that it rose up a little at the bar's tip, but I thought perhaps this was something that I had not noticed before.

I then put on my safety stuff and proceeded to cut and was amazed at how well the new chain cut. After shutting off the unit to top off the gas and oil tanks I restarted the saw, but this time I neglected to put my ear protection back on. It was at this time I heard the clacking and I shut off the saw to check it out. When I reexamined the package I realized the chain was for the Poulan 295 but mine was a Poulan-Pro 295.

dadpad was entirely correct about chain saw safety and I simply must be more careful. Fortunately when I'm working with power tools I make a point of doing so while alone. Had this caused injury to another I could not have forgiven myself.

However, bad things can happen even when everything is seemly planned for and all safety stuff is donned. I have a 10" electric table saw that I use to reduce the size of some of the wood that goes into the stove (this allows me to pack in more wood for overnight or extended periods when I won't be around to keep the fire going, the fire box is rather small). On the table there is an elongated spring-loaded plate that is removed to change the blade. In this particular instance everything was properly buttoned down and functioning correctly. What happened next was weird but I guess quite predictable via Murphy's Law in hindsight. As the saw blade was finishing its cut it ripped off a larger sized piece. This piece was small enough, when angled correctly, for it to lodge in the teeth of the blade but when it turned 90 degrees as it made its revolution back up towards the plate I mentioned it could no longer fit thru the opening meant for the blade only. When the splinter hit this plate with the full force of the saw blade it became instant shrapnel which then hit me in the face. The safety goggles took most of the force and all I received was a glancing blow to the forehead and a bruise where the goggles met my head. I now wear a helmet and matching face shield. This all happened extremely fast. I remember my Dad building our entire house with no safety stuff and no accidents over a 3-year period. For years I played ice hockey a la the 70's-- no helmet or face cage or shield, we were lucky.

Thanks again to all,

JM
0 Replies
 
dadpad
 
  1  
Reply Tue 27 Mar, 2007 04:39 pm
JamesMorrison wrote:
Fortunately when I'm working with power tools I make a point of doing so while alone. Had this caused injury to another I could not have forgiven myself.


Once again you show your ignorance of basic safety.

What happens if you do injure yourself? You cant drive to hospital with a 10 inch cut in your leg.

Before you even think about cranking the saw and starting to cut, protect yourself. Never work alone and ALWAYS wear protective clothing, including:

* Leg protection such as kevlar chaps, leggings or cut resistant pants.
* Hard hat with face shield
* Gloves or mittens with an enhanced gripping surface.
* Eye protection with side shields.
* Hearing protection such as earplugs or earmuffs.
* Boots or shoes with steel toes and nonskid soles.
0 Replies
 
 

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