@DaveyCrocket,
I'm a Rain Soft technician, and have been for nearly 10 years.
I'd have to ask which type of acid neutralizer you have to get into more detail, but from the year in which you posted, I'd say you have a silver series neutralizer. My company sold two versions. The 1044, and the 1054. 10 would be the diameter of the tank, and 44 or 54 would be the height from the bottom to the collar. If the timer is mechanical and has a grey knob, and also is extremely complicated to understand, I'd be certain that it was a silver series. If it has a computer board, it's a TC series, and the tank sizes still apply.
I read a couple of posts, and the one thing that caught my attention was someone said the ph should usually be around 7. No it should not usually be around 7. It should be 7 period. The scale goes from 0-14. 7 is smack in the middle, hence neutral. When it is below 7, the water is acid. Then you get those blue green stains, the pinholes, etc.
There are variables that have an effect on your neutralizer; water consumption, iron levels, suspended iron, etc. Think of that tank as a gas tank for your car. You get X amount of miles out of a full tank of gas, you get X amount of gallons of water out of a full bed of calcite, or azinute. My company mixes Mag Oxide in with the calcite to kick the ph up, limiting the amount of calcite we use (usually 1 50lb bag) This increases the free board (distance from collar to top of bed, 18" is minimum) in the tank, limiting the possibility of raising the bedding up into the control because your system comes with a 1" valve, manifold, and 6 gpm flow restricter on the drain line. Also it helps a little bit with the water pressure in the house.
We're taught to tell people expect to rebed the tank once a year, but if I walk into a house with a only 1 person living there, they are not using as much water as a family of 6. So a rebed might not be necessary.
What the technician in your case did was shortbed the tank. It is a means of getting the job done and does work. However I cannot recommend doing that year after year. As the calcite breaks down, it starts to turn into mud in the tank. It's the best adjective I have. By repeatedly pouring on top of that, you're compressing that down and it will work it's way through the pea gravel at the bottom of your tank. This will cause water pressure drops in the house but also it may slip passed and into your water softner. Those little pieces of calcite can scratch the teflon coating off your softeners piston. That's why I refuse to do the shortbedding consecutive years.
Rebedding the tank on your own isn't recommended for one very simple reason. If you break it, that warranty is not valid because it's not considered, "normal wear" Now if a technician breaks it, that's a whole other story. I know. I've cracked my fair share of head casings. It is not that hard to do. "Made from the same material they make bullet proof glass out of." Oh yes, I had to sit through one of those sales pitches. It's good to know that these guns (as I flex my biceps) can break bullet proof glass. But if you were inclined to attempt it, a flat head screw driver is all you need.