RainSoft Q2 valve/regeneration stopped

Check and see if any information in this thread LINK helps.

thank you, but that did not do it. I followed the instructions, and although I do get the display, and usage is being updated correctly, and the bypass valve is set to "soft water" (it is brass like the one in the picture from the link you provided), I still cannot start a manual regeneration cycle.
Do I need to start looking for a replacement? If so, does anyone have recommendations - one impression I get from forum posts is that Independent Operators can provide the same quality equipment as the "big" dealers for less cost. What about service?
I am likely not going back with Rainsoft, as service has always been expensive and hard to acquire in my area (upstate NY). There is a Culligen dealer nearby, and I may ask them to come give me their analysis and pitch. I am not going to Sears.
I am open to suggestions.
According to the Rainsoft unit I have hardness 19 and capacity 22.
Even if I get no response here, thanks for your help!

Yeah, it sounds like the board is shot.

If you can find an established local independent dealer that sells
equipment with the better FLECK control valves you should be OK.
They may be able to get you up and running with just a new control
valve, riser pipe and salt tank... this will be the most cost effective option.

I also suggest looking for a local ECOWATER dealer - they are awesome.

A 32K or larger capacity softener would be a nice upgrade on 19 grain water.

HTH ~

ok, thank you very much indeed! I see the closest Ecowater dealer is about 50 miles from here. I do appreciate your help, you do very good work in this forum.

H2O Man:
You seem to be the softener guru, perhaps you can help me.
My Rainsoft system with a Q2 unit has stopped working.
The shear pin broke and after I replaced it the unit ran, sort of, but left the tank half-full of brine. I have tried to regenerate manually but no success. I think I may need to replace the o-rings. My question is: do i have to release the pressure in the cylinder before i start to strip the thing down and do i need any special tools to get to the 0-rings? I have most mechanical-electrical and plumbing tools in my workshop.
I can get the parts I need from the dealer but I don’t want to pay him some crazy price to have him show up.
Yuo can e-mail me directly at [email protected] if you like.
Thanks for your help. Martin Fryer

Email sent.

the shear pin breaks usually because of some other problem, orings are the most common culprit, I'd replace the orings on the piston and replace the injector

H2O Man:
I changed out the piston assembly and all seems to be fine now. Thanks for your help. I’m sure it saved me a bundle not having a service call. it took me all of about 15 minutes. Vern

Excellent!

Hi H2O Man,

I think I have the same problem as Martin. I replaced the shear pin per one of your other posts, and it worked great for about a year. The pin is still there, the valve stem goes up and down very easily, but no water goes into the brine tank. Please send me the same info on replacing the piston assembly. Thanks.

My shear pin broke off. I just ordered a new shear pin, but I am at a loss how to take everything apart and replace it. I can get the motor off and one cam wheel, but I am stuck on how to procede from there. I'm sure I need to reset the cam wheels and the motor to the proper orientation. I'm just lost on how to continue.

My sheer pin broke. How do I get the piston out to change the O rings ? Rain soft Q2