Car wont start

You'll get many good tips from good people.
I've got a couple that are sometimes overlooked.
The battery. The battery need to be putting out something like 13.5 volts to start. If it falls below 12 volts, the car may not start.

The negative ground connection. It's usually not obvious. Make sure it's not corroded or loose.
My experience has frequently been or the other.

Good luck.

I

If you replaced the fuelpump and the fuel filter, odds are the problem lies in one of these su7bsystems:

1) The fuel injection or carburation system, as applies with your particular car, fouled airfilter, a fuel line clog, kink, or leak netween the engine and fuel filter (some vehicles have more than oine fuel filter, too, just so you're aware), leaking fuel injectors or injector rails, a dirty or vacuum-leaking throttle body, a failed carburetor mounting gasket, stuck or leaking fuel floats or throttle plates, clogged fuel jets, something of that nature. The possibility of a clogged PCV valve or other failed recirculation component should not be overlooked. A simple, but thorough fuel delivery and aspiration system check should be performed. Replacing fuel injector components can be relatively expensive, carburetor work typically is less so.

2) An ignition problem, which could lie anywhere from the sparkplugs all the way back to the engine computer itself (failures in the engine computer can mimic fuel system/aspiration faults - a good mechanic can tell the difference easily). It could be as simple as faulty wiring, a distributor which has either slipped from its proper alignment or suffers from a cracked cap, a failed module or other minor sensor (the oxygen sensor comes immediately to mind sometimes tricky to diagnose without code-reading equipment, but cheap and simple to replace) or component to a totally failed onboard computer. The latter can be quite spendy to remedy, particularly if the computer is replaced with a new or remanufactured unit as opposed to a salvage-yard part.

3) a broken, stripped or slipped main timing belt or gear, as applicable to you particular car. Such a fault would not inhibit the engine from turning over, but could, depending on degree of resultant desynchronization, result in anything from hard starting, rough running, loss of power, bogging under load, stalling, or complete failure either to start or run. Again, a good mechanic should be able to recognize this easily. Of the options listed, this last seems to me, from the symptoms described, rather likely to be your problem. The job of replacing and resynchronizing the timing assembly is major, labor intensive repair, and the cost of it should be considered in context of the car's age and overall condition, then weighed against replacement of the vehicle itself.

Then too, many of the newer vehicles have a fuel shut off switch. Believe it or not, this clever device shuts off the fuel! With the pressurized fuel systems used with injectors, they needed them as fire control in case of an accident. They get old; sometimes you hit a bump. Anyway, sometimes they shut off the fuel flow. Sometimes they can be reset, without having to replace them.

They can be hidden in the trunk, inside the glove box, under the dash, and just all sorts of places.

Don't you just love paying extra for parts that won't let your car run?

Good point, rog ... I hadn't even thought of the collision shut-off switch. Not only can the suckers (or actually, sucker-stoppers ) be triggered by a good bump, the blasted things can simply fail-while-in-service. To parphrase Monty Pyton, "NOBODY expects the Collision Fuel Shut-Off"

My car broke down the other day, it went 'kaput'.

I went 'aaaaarrrgh'

So i started it up again, it didnt like that very much, so went 'kaput' again..

i called my pa out (he knows about cars and stuff).. who wasnt very impressed at the inconvenience as u can imagine, especially when he discovered the cause for my cars 'brokenness' was lack of fuel..