0
   

Volts across relays and components.

 
 
zgetman
 
Reply Mon 27 Jul, 2015 03:59 am
I drew up this Diagram and need some help. http://www.3reef.com/attachments/schematic-jpg.69966/ As it says in the Diagram I am using a 12v DC power supply to run 2 Coil Relays, 3 float switches, an alarm, LED, and alarm. Can I use two 5v DC relays or do they need to be rated 9v DC or higher? Any help would be appreciated.
  • Topic Stats
  • Top Replies
  • Link to this Topic
Type: Question • Score: 0 • Views: 832 • Replies: 16
No top replies

 
zgetman
 
  0  
Reply Mon 27 Jul, 2015 09:47 am
@zgetman,
Please help....
dalehileman
 
  1  
Reply Mon 27 Jul, 2015 10:29 am
@zgetman,
Bottom coil, Zet, appears to be unconnected at its top
zgetman
 
  0  
Reply Mon 27 Jul, 2015 12:35 pm
@dalehileman,
Yes, it was pointed out to me that was so. It connects to -12vdc complete the circuit.
0 Replies
 
dalehileman
 
  1  
Reply Mon 27 Jul, 2015 01:05 pm
@zgetman,
Okay then Zet, you need two 12-v relays
timur
 
  2  
Reply Mon 27 Jul, 2015 01:24 pm
@dalehileman,
For once, it wasn't a bad advice.

However, the schematic is full of errors and inconsistencies..
zgetman
 
  1  
Reply Mon 27 Jul, 2015 04:37 pm
@timur,
Can you explain how it is full of inconsistencies?

I know some basic electric stuff and this is the first schematic I have ever drawn. Not only that I have never used DC in conjunction with Relays to control a pump.

Here is what the circuit is to supposed to do.

I have two tanks with water in them. The first tanks level is kept constant with the Pump in the schematic. The second tank has a float switch simply to warm me if the water is to low. In the first tank there are two float switches, the lower float switch is the first in the circuit, it tigers the alarm if the water goes below the switch. The second switch in that tank is the last in series, it turns the pump on if the water drops below it. The switch that is second in series is in the tank that the pump in the circuit is located, it is what sounds the alarm in case of a dry tank.
0 Replies
 
dalehileman
 
  1  
Reply Mon 27 Jul, 2015 04:43 pm
@timur,
Quote:
For once, it wasn't a bad advice.
Wow Tim I must be advancing somehow
0 Replies
 
zgetman
 
  1  
Reply Tue 28 Jul, 2015 03:11 am
@dalehileman,
http://www.electronicspoint.com/attachments/schematic-jpg.21210/

I revised the Schematic. Do you guys see anything wrong with it?
timur
 
  1  
Reply Tue 28 Jul, 2015 05:23 am
@zgetman,
Not only are there things wrong in your schematic but it's inconsistent with your description .

For example, you have an ON/OFF switch just to switch the Led and the alarm? And a fuse that protects the led and the alarm in series?

I'd suggest you write down your layout:

- Identify the tanks (T1, T2)
- Identify the float switches (SW1, SW2, SW3)
- Pair up your tanks with your switches (T1, SW1, SW3), (T2, SW2)

Write down, in short paragraphs, your needs:

I.E. - SW3 will turn on the pump and so on..

Post it here, I'll draw you the appropriate diagram..





zgetman
 
  1  
Reply Tue 28 Jul, 2015 05:50 am
@timur,
The box before the LED is supposed to be a resistor. ( I dont know the correct way to show that.) The on/off switch is to shut the alarm off when I do water changes. The alarm will sound when I do the water change and I want to turn it off..
0 Replies
 
zgetman
 
  1  
Reply Tue 28 Jul, 2015 06:50 am
@timur,
Water Level System:
Tanks - T1, T2
Float Switches - SW1, SW2, Sw3
Pump - P1

Warning System:
Red Led - RL1
Buzzer - B1
Rocker Switch - RSW1

Tank Pairs: (T1,SW1,SW3), (T2,SW2,P1)
Warning Pairs: (SW1,SW2,RL1,B1,RSW1)

T1 is a tank that has evaporation in it and needs to be regulated. T2 is a holding tank that houses the pump to refill T1. As T1 is effected by evaporation, the water level will go down causing SW3 to activate and turn P1 in T2 on. When T1 is filled SW3 will turn P1 in T2 off. If T1's water level drops below SW1, or T2's level drops below SW2, then RL1 and B1 shall sound to indicate water is critically low in T1 and/or T2 in order to save P1 for burning up. The RSW1 is in place to turn RL1 and B1 off when maintenance is done to the system, and then turned back on when maintenance is completed.

I could do all of this with a 110v system, but I want to reduce the current that can possibly run through T1. So I need turn the SWs on with DC current. P1 needs 110v ac in order to run.

0 Replies
 
timur
 
  1  
Reply Tue 28 Jul, 2015 10:50 am
Here it is:
http://i61.tinypic.com/2hgdc45.jpg
0 Replies
 
timur
 
  1  
Reply Tue 28 Jul, 2015 11:11 am
Missing on the list:
d1 - 1N4001 diode or similar.
sw3 - floating switch 3
zgetman
 
  1  
Reply Tue 28 Jul, 2015 09:00 pm
@timur,
http://www.electronicspoint.com/attachments/schematic-jpg.21218/

Will this work to have sw1 to shut the pump off when the circuit is broken?
0 Replies
 
timur
 
  1  
Reply Wed 29 Jul, 2015 05:08 am
Yes, it will work too and in that case you don't need the diode d1.
zgetman
 
  1  
Reply Wed 29 Jul, 2015 06:43 am
@timur,
Awesome, thanks for your help.
0 Replies
 
 

Related Topics

Main Breaker Tripped 2x - Question by decadent
240 Why - Question by lenchase
Electrical Wiring Question - Question by cdime
electrical showers - Question by grains93
6000W cooktop circuit - Question by 1hairycanary
Tempory power supply - Question by 51 nelson
 
  1. Forums
  2. » Volts across relays and components.
Copyright © 2020 MadLab, LLC :: Terms of Service :: Privacy Policy :: Page generated in 0.03 seconds on 12/02/2020 at 09:57:40