Changing baseboard heater

Good Q, Derek. Are any metallic parts of the new heater exposed

They are baseboard heaters
So they are exposed
I've disconnected them but is there anyway of grounding new ones properly without running new wire to panel ?

I should be more clear
There was only two wires in casing connected
To baseboard heater
The third was a separate copper ground attached to heater and to a piece of two wire casing
Just awfull

Sorry Dm but your q still not entirely clear. If your ground conductor wasn't a wire, what was it, and after dismounting the old heater is it dangling from the wall or from the old heater

Does the new heater have a ground conductor of some sort in addition to the two power wires

By "panel" did you mean the insulating cover of a wall outlet box

By "metal wire casing " did you mean a metallic utility or outlet box or it it a conductive braid or wrap around the power wires ("two-wire casing")

Regret unable to be of more help but obviously there has to be a ground connection. Often it's a green or uninsulated wire of large diameter between the exposed metallic parts of the heater and the metallic outlet box, where it's screwed down or attached by means of a conductive clip

Basically I removed baseboard heater from wall along baseboard.
Out of the wall was a spiral metal wrapped wire. In the wrap was two wires one black and one white so old the white around wire was like string. Coming out of the baseboard was one white one black connected to the black and white out of wall. I disconnected a short seperate copper wire that was attached to the ground screw on back of heater and attached to a piece of the spiral metal which wrapped the power wire. By panel I meant breaker box where there is a 2 pile 20 amp breaker.

I presume you mean two wires, that is the ones carrying power. The wrap is probably a safety ground, which you can confirm using an ohmmeter. If I'm right you will measure zero to one or two ohms between it and the metal casing of any outlet box nearby. Be sure of course power off

If you don't have an ohmmeter you can juryrig using eg battery and bulb

Probably these are the power wires which of course you can confirm by connecting a load of some sort--such as a light bulb etc--and applying power. It's hard to believe however that its plastic insulation had completely evaporated from the white one

Before proceeding be sure to shut down the power

Black usu hot and white neut

https://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20071006094655AAxgJCt

Sorry Dm but this is kind of confusing to an old fella. Isn't the wire "coming out of the baseboard" the same as the one "coming out of the wall"

I presume you mean the new heater

If I'm guessing correctly, this should ground the new heater. Before applying power however, be sure that "metallic wrap" is actually ground as I had suggested above

By "pile" I presume Dm you meant "pole." Of course if the "wrap" is a safety ground carrying no substantial current then you don't need to run an additional wire

I presume the two handles of the breaker are joined somehow. If not, all bets are off, take no further action, and by all means call an electrician

https://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20070828111737AAzCRDS

Yeah I'm confused too. In my jurisdiction, 220/240 wiring onto two pole 20a breakers requires a 12 gauge three-wire (black/red/white) plus bare ground wire running from panel to device. You say you only have two wires in a grounded jacket?

Also here where I live, metal-armored cable is used only when you can't run wire within walls i.e. you need to surface mount wire. I would consider running new wire in armoured (BX) cable from the panel to the heater behind your wood baseboard.