I have a nostalgic rue for the loss of chef Jean Bertranou, who changed the chef culture in Los Angeles in the late seventies at his restaurant, L'Ermitage, on La Cienega. Memorable meals there, for us.
Here's an article written by Ruth Reichl on the fifteenth anniversary of the restaurant, about ten years after Bertranou's death, telling more of the history.
One thing I remember, was that when Bertranou was dying in the hospital, local chefs made sure he had other than hospital food, or so I read.
The restaurant did stay open with other chefs for quite a while, but we never did go back after Bertranou's death.