Darcey
 
Reply Fri 7 Aug, 2009 12:48 pm
Hey there. I'd appreciate any tips or advice that you can provide on the topic of our front overhang. We purchased this house 8 years ago and noted that it had a very slight sagging going on with the front overhang. There are no posts under the overhang to support it at the moment, and we have noticed that the sagging has gotten a bit worse. A few people have told me that the weight of the shingles, trusses, etc... for this overhang would be approximately 300-400 lbs, and not to bother with sticking any posts underneath it for support. My wife and I would like to at least put a 4X6 support beam (approx 10 ft long) so that we have some extra support. Being a very novice weekend-warrior builder, my thoughts are to stick a small groundhog (approx 4 ft long) into the ground (all utilities have been checked, no issues with drilling into the ground in this location) and then sticking the 4X6 post between the top of the groundhog and the bottom of a truss (screws on both ends for support).
Does this make sense? If so, my questions are regarding the soffit and fascia...once I've taken off the soffit and fascia to get at the truss, how do I get the soffit and fascia back on- would I have to cut a hole through the soffit or is there a better way to get this done? Thanks- any tips would be greatly appreciated! If needed, I could try to post a few pictures.
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mysteryman
 
  2  
Reply Fri 7 Aug, 2009 01:06 pm
@Darcey,
Quote:
once I've taken off the soffit and fascia to get at the truss, how do I get the soffit and fascia back on- would I have to cut a hole through the soffit or is there a better way to get this done?


Once you have taken them off, putting them back on shouldnt be that difficult.
You would need to replace the facia board (usually a 1x6 or a 2x6).
You can do that by simply nailing it to the exposed ende os the roof trusses.
You then need to put the soffit back on.
Do that by getting a 2 foot long level, marking the wall at the point where the level shows a level connection with the wall (hole the level against the bottom of the fascia board, touch the wall, and move the level up or down till you get a level bubble).
Do that at both ends of the fascia board, then get a chalk line and mark a line so you know where level is.
Then get some "F channel" (it looks like the letter F) and nail it up above but touching that line.
Nail it up so the "F" is upside down.

Slide one side of the soffett into the F channel, and nail the other end to the fascia board. Do this all the way down the soffit and fascia.
AFTER you do that, you can nail the fascia board cover back up, then you can rehang or hang any gutters you want to put up.

Depending on the length of the fascia and soffits, it should be a simple weekend project to rehang the soffit and fascia.
0 Replies
 
panzade
 
  1  
Reply Fri 7 Aug, 2009 01:22 pm
@Darcey,
MM did a nice job answering

I'm just curious. How long is the overhang.
Truss or rafter?

What state are you in?
ossobuco
 
  0  
Reply Fri 7 Aug, 2009 01:32 pm
@panzade,
Agreeing with Panzade.. in wondering about the length of the overhang.
0 Replies
 
Darcey
 
  1  
Reply Fri 7 Aug, 2009 01:46 pm
@panzade,
Hi- its actually a long overhang- about 9 ft from the wall to the fascia. We live in Manitoba, so there is alot of snow buildup in the wintertime too. Its a truss too.
panzade
 
  1  
Reply Fri 7 Aug, 2009 01:51 pm
@Darcey,
that's nuts!...by all means, stick a beam up there...you know how much snow weighs?...I think the requirement is 30 lbs per sq foot...I don't think you have it now.

Let us know if you have any more questions
0 Replies
 
panzade
 
  1  
Reply Fri 7 Aug, 2009 02:08 pm
PS-just thought of something...when you go to install the beam you're gonna have to jack the trusses up a couple of inches, if it is sagging. Best way to do that is with a temporary beam supported on each end by 2 2x4s nailed together sitting on a car jack.(Out of the way of where you're gonna place the finished beam.)
Cut the fascia back to each side of the porch and string a line to tell you when the trusses are raised high enough to make the front fascia a straight line.
mysteryman
 
  1  
Reply Fri 7 Aug, 2009 03:12 pm
@Darcey,
If its that long an overhang, you damn well better put up some extra supports.
Otherwise, the whole thing will come down.
0 Replies
 
ossobuco
 
  0  
Reply Fri 7 Aug, 2009 03:57 pm
I meant the length of the "face of" the overhang, that is, the amount of space between support posts. Or... uh oh, are there none?
0 Replies
 
panzade
 
  1  
Reply Fri 7 Aug, 2009 04:33 pm
I'm guessing your soffet is 24" and therefore your trusses are cantilevered 7 feet...is that correct?
0 Replies
 
ossobuco
 
  0  
Reply Fri 7 Aug, 2009 05:29 pm
@panzade,
I'm obviously not clear on what is happening. We have a soffit of two feet with rafters coming out from the area above the soffit or tied to a ledger with rafters parallel to the soffit, rafters ending seven feet out and abutting a fascia board that is sagging? What is all that resting on? We have a 2 x 6 fascia spanning how many feet as a kind of beam? I need more info or some similar photo. In my world the 6 matters and it wouldn't span more than six feet, even if it's 0nly a roof, and then it would be a 4x. Or is there a serious beam under that somewhere?

On the other hand, the back terrace roof of the house I bought in Abq has a design to wail about, there were fools abroad on the land - which I figured I'd tear out and re-do (send money). It's aggravatin'.

Since I figure I am somehow not getting the picture, can someone repaint this in words one more time?



ossobuco
 
  0  
Reply Fri 7 Aug, 2009 05:34 pm
@ossobuco,
Aack, I meant rafters perpendicular to the soffit, pardon me.
0 Replies
 
ossobuco
 
  0  
Reply Fri 7 Aug, 2009 05:37 pm
Also - if I were the original poster I'd go the the building department and scarf up their handouts with design details, or I'd go to the building and safety (or whatever it's called in your area) website for allowed spans. (Or maybe someone will come up with a link).

Or, hire a licensed building contractor of good repute.

Or, least, look at how to books from lumber yards.
0 Replies
 
mysteryman
 
  1  
Reply Fri 7 Aug, 2009 07:08 pm
@Darcey,
Hi, My name is Matt and I'm a contractor that some how got the raw end of the deal in being married into mystery man's family... From the way I understand what you have is roof joists extending from your house and resting on a ledger board connecting two support posts...If I understand correctly you are seeing a sag in the ledger board which CAN be corrected by adding an additional support post in the middle of that board...However that can also impede on aesthetics or maneuverability in or around that space. My suggestion for a potentially less aggravating solution would be to replace that ledger board with the next width up in size (e.g....I assume that your ledger board is a 2x6 I would go with a 2x8 or larger depending on how bad the weather gets up there.) This board can be safely removed and replaced with the assistance of temporary roof supports such as a few vertical 2x4s spaced every other roof joist.... from the ground to the decking...just butt the boards against the decking of the roof snugly but not too far. Once the roof is sufficiently supported you may remove and replace the ledger at your leisure. As far as the soffit removal and replacement goes.... go to your local hardware store and ask them for a sideswiper or your local equivalent... its a small tool with a rubber grip and a flat hook at one end... I'm not being a smart ass here but the tool comes with a pretty self explanatory set of instructions...read them and your soffit project should be a snap.
ossobuco
 
  0  
Reply Fri 7 Aug, 2009 08:25 pm
@mysteryman,
What?

The ledger, if there is one, is bolted to the house structure per code, presumably. The ledger is there to affix t0 beams, which I sometimes call rafters depending on what is going on, loose word.

You are saying he sees a sag in that ledger bolted to the house/soffit beam?? I doubt it.

I figure he sees a sag out in space, but I can't get a grip re all the sloppy talk.

If he sees a sag at the ledger by the house, that's another bag of wax.
I don't think our poster knows about ledgers and I'm not sure you do, Matt.

My name is Jo, I'm a licensed landscape architect, I haven't practiced for a while and will close my license soon, and I'm not able to just draw and talk here - wish I could, and you could, but I'm lame re drawing on line - as we all might agree, at least part of the time.

I remain wondering what the overhead is resting on.
ossobuco
 
  0  
Reply Fri 7 Aug, 2009 08:29 pm
@ossobuco,
Rereading, I think you are saying ledger for fascia, Matt.
ossobuco
 
  0  
Reply Fri 7 Aug, 2009 08:34 pm
@ossobuco,
So, what is the span? Are there supports of some sort at the ends, as in house columns?

Let me guess, there are no support posts in between x number of feet? You have a feather reaching between them?

Please clarify.

ossobuco
 
  0  
Reply Fri 7 Aug, 2009 09:05 pm
@ossobuco,
Well, assuming we are talking about, lordie, a fascia board just resting between columns a long way away from each other, there are varied remedies.

So, I'll say again, please consult with a local well regarded contracting firm.
ossobuco
 
  0  
Reply Fri 7 Aug, 2009 09:18 pm
@ossobuco,
Darcie said this -

"There are no posts under the overhang to support it at the moment"


I would like to know more, from curiosity, but I think Darcie needs local professional help.
ossobuco
 
  0  
Reply Fri 7 Aug, 2009 09:33 pm
@ossobuco,
So, I'm guessing that the whole apparatus is resting on truss type structures perpendicular to the house, probably to the soffit. And the fascia is bowing? Do I have this right? I can see that working, given strong support from the house.

If a failure in that is what is going on, then... look to the house support post(s) or column(s).





 

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