Cool table saw that won't cut off your fingers

I know a couple guys woulda liked to have one of those...

very cool

(How $$$?)

$1,599.99 - $3,749.99 ... depends on the model you want.

Pretty cheap even for one finger only up to the first knuckle.

Beyond cool!

I heard of such a device several years ago. Good idea, but the inventor was trying to make it mandatory - bad idea. Wonder what his motive might have been.

By the way, I wouldn't trust it with one of my fingers.

and outta my price range.

(guess I'll just hafta keep bein' careful...)

It shouldn't replace common sense and safety. But, it would be a nice backup to have when proper care is replaced by carelessness.

That's the best plan, Rockhead. Maybe it'd instill a sense of overconfidence and then your planer or radial arm saw would get your fingers.

The guy in the demonststration knew not to put his finger in it. No need tempting fate.

Yeah. He didn't care about the wiener.

dammit...

now I got the pickle slicer joke in my head, Intrepid!!

lol my granpa cut of 3 and a half of his fingers on of those tabelsaws, but it broke of the bolt and shot straight up. very nasty.

A nick like the one sustained by the weiner is sure to bleed a little.

obviously it wont let you cut green wood and you must use green wood for "rustic" furniture. I wonder what the moisture (EM) level that triggers this?

I believe that the biggest source of major injury from table saws is from "kickback" where a piece of lumber is jammed and then is rocketed back into your face or torso. .
Several people Die each year from kickback accidents.

I too will continue being ultra careful with my table saw. It has a 5HP motor and thats nough to kill you. I have a sign in my shop that states that power tools can Kill ( one of my neighbors got really hammered by my saw a few years ago. he sustained a major injury to his arm from a kickback).

PREVENTING TABLE SAW KICKBACK
Kickback is the ejection of the workpiece from the saw back towards the
operator. Table saw kickback may be caused by:


• the kerf of the workpiece closing up and pinching the rear of the
saw blade.
• wedging of the workpiece between the fence and the rear of the
saw blade (fence not parallel with saw blade).
• a crooked cut which causes the workpiece to bind against the
sides of the blade as it passes through.
• edge of a workpiece against the fence not straight.

When binding, pinching or wedging occur the motion of the saw blade tends
to lift the wood and may hurl it back toward the operator.


Specific safety precautions in preventing kickback when using table saws are
given below:


Always use the spreader (splitter) when it is functional. This prevents the kerf
from closing and pinching the blade. Make sure the spreader is properly
lined up behind the blade.


Always use the anti-kickback pawls (fingers). If a kickback should occur they are designed to grab the workpiece and prevent it from being thrown back toward the operator. Keep the teeth of the pawls (fingers) sharp.


Anti-kickback devices may not work when cutting smooth or hard surfaces.
Therefore always cut with the smooth, hard surface next to the table.


Always use the rip fence to guide the workpiece in a straight line when ripping.


Never freehand cut a workpiece. Freehanding causes crooked cuts and potential kickback. Crooked edges on the stock can also cause crooked cuts.


Make sure the fence is parallel to the blade. If the fence closes in toward the
rear of the blade it will tend to wedge the wood against the blade and may
cause kickback.


Never tilt the blade or saw table such that the workpiece is trapped in the
angle between the blade and the fence. This is a condition which has high
potential of causing kickback. Use the fence to the side of the blade that
results in an angle greater than 90 degrees between the blade and the table.


Keep the angle between the blade and fence open so that the workpiece is free to absorb any misalignments. (See owner's manual for cutting techniques).


Avoid standing directly behind the workpiece when making a rip cut.

Always use the miter gauge when crosscutting, and hold the workpiece firmly
against it to assure a straight cut.


Other precautions which should be taken to prevent kickback while using a
table saw:


A dull blade may cause a kickback. Keep blades sharp.


Make sure set tooth blades have adequate set. Tooth set provides clearance
between the plate of the blade and the workpiece, thus minimizing the
probability of binding. Some saw blades are hollow or taper ground to provide
clearance.


Keep saw blades clean. A buildup of pitch or sap on the surface of the saw blade increases the thickness of the blade and also increases friction on the blade surface. These conditions cause an increase in the potential of a kickback.


Do not cut wet wood. It produces higher friction against the blade. Also the blade tends to load up with wet sawdust, affecting a much greater probability of kickback.


Be very careful of stock which is pitchy, knotty or warped. These are more
likely to create pinching conditions and possible kickback.


Never use a bent, broken or warped saw blade. The probability of binding
and creating a kickback is greatly increased.


Overheating a saw blade can cause it to warp and create a kickback. Buildup
of sap on the blades, insufficient set, dullness, and unguided cuts can all
cause an overheated blade.


Do not use more blade height than is required to cut the workpiece - 1/8 in.
to 1/4 in. greater than the thickness of the stock is sufficient. This minimizes
the amount of saw blade exposed.


Never use miter gauge with the rip fence.

Good advice, Farmerman. I haven't been cut by my saw, but I have had kickback. A piece of lumber in the gut gives one pause to think of the stupidity that caused it. <the operator>