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Mon 16 Jun, 2008 04:04 pm
My 18 year old water system needs replacement and I'm hoping for some direction. It was on its last legs two years ago when Eco Water came out and recommended replacement of the neutralizer and softener to the tune of $3250. Reverse osmosis to the kitchen sink was another $800. The quote was much higher than I expected and I didn't go for the installation. I really need a new system, but don't want to pay the premium for the national brand, despite the local service that comes with it.
A quick water analysis was done by Eco, showing pH of 5.7, hardness of 2gpg, iron .5ppm, TDS 32ppm. I know that the neutralizer raises hardness but wonder if I really need a softener given these figures. I'm wary of installers trying to sell me stuff I may not need. I'm considering buying on-line and hiring a plumber.
I'd like to find equipment that can be self-maintained but don't know anything about how the material in the neutralizer is serviced or how to select one that I can refill myself. The $200 annual servicing is just one more bill I'd like to avoid.
I'd really appreciate your recommendations on equipment. Regarding water demand, it's just me and the husband with very low water usage. Our well is not very productive and we are careful, but I also would like to use the least amount of water possible to regenerate the unit(s).
I will, of course, have an current, independent water analysis done.
Thank you for your thoughts,
iwant2rent
Your water is very acidic and you need an AN filter. That adds hardness to the 2 gpg in the water now and that would give you maybe 7-10 gpg. You don't have to buy a softener but your water will quite different than it is now.
You can hire a plumber or water treatment dealer to install it but, it is very straight forward plumbing to connect a filter of softener. It takes maybe 3.5 hrs to install a filter and softener. I have taught many people how to solder but you may not have to solder to install the equipment.
Post the results of your current water tests.
Re: Well water, low pH, acid neutralizer & softener ques
iwant2rent wrote:
A quick water analysis was done by Eco, showing pH of 5.7, hardness of 2gpg, iron .5ppm, TDS 32ppm. I know that the neutralizer raises hardness but wonder if I really need a softener given these figures.
You definitely need an Acid Neutralizer, it will elevate your Ph and bring your total hardness up to about 9 gpg. The difference between 2 gpg with a low Ph and 9 gpg with a neutral Ph will be significant. I suggest you have a softener installed with your new Acid Neutralizer. I consider the RO a non-essential purchase in your case.
I suggest that you deal with your local ECOwater dealer or a local independent H2O specialist that sell, installs and services what they sell.
Good luck, H2O MAN
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My H2O quality improvement career began in 1988 and I have provided free consulting online since 1993.
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water test
Seems like there is just one lab in my vicinity that does residential water testing. They will test for things a la carte, but have two packages as well. The $130 test doesn't include total dissolved solids, the $180 package does. Yikes! What should I test for? Obviously, pH, iron, hardness - what else? Is TDS necessary? Manganese? How do acid neutralizers and softeners deal with TDS and manganese? The more I look into this, the more questions I come up with. It's no wonder most people just want to trust one of the big outfits to take care of the whole business. I don't think I can make a decision without knowing what the heck I'm buying the equipment for! Thanks again.
Re: water test
iwant2rent wrote: I don't think I can make a decision without knowing what the heck I'm buying the equipment for!
K.I.S.S.
You have low Ph / acidic water.
This problem needs to be addressed with an acid neutralizer before you do anything else.
Elevating the Ph with an acid neutralizer results in another condition known as hard water.
Hard water problems are addressed with a softener.
You don't need more tests unless you want Coliform bacteria, sulfates, chlorides, arsenic and MTBE (is it?). Your fear of being "sold" something is causing problems. Any salesman you call out to your home has no need to lie to you about what and how much of it is in your water; you already know you have a problem or your shouldn't call one out.... but, the national brand types will usually will try to sell you the most expensive thing in their list of equipment. Us online guys compete with each other for the lowest price of the same equipment we all sell. That equipment is made up of component parts made by the largest name brand component parts manufacturers; Autotrol, Clack, Fleck, Structural, Enpress etc, etc..
TDS is not important, it is a measurement of all things dissolved in the water. Your TDS is low now because you have little hardness and other things in the water but, it proves the acidic condition. If you don't take care of that, you end up with pin holes in copper tubing, an increased level of copper in your water and ruined metal fixtures etc..
Be wary of online peddlers trying to sell you the cheapest thing in their list of equipment.
You get what you pay for and you don't get what you don't pay for.
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