bluegrassbubba wrote:I am on city water, heavy in magnesium and calcium, hardness is around 24, not sure about the iron, I also had a Culligan guy come by, I mentioned maybe using potassium instead of sodium and he didnt even know anything about it, duh, I hope the Ecowater presentation tomm goes well, I'm leaning that way. Thanks for the reply.
City water rarely has ferrous iron in it.
Here are a few things everyone should ask anyone wanting to sell them a softener.
Ask them about the SFR of the softener and then ask for proof of their figures. Ask if that gpm figure is constant flow or peak for X minutes only and what happens if you exceed it.
Ask them why their softener costs so much.
For Ecowater, ask the difference between their models and a Kenmore, GE or Whirlpool made by the same company in the same factory.
Ask how many regenerations per 8 days and add up the total salt and water used on an 8 day basis.
The way they answer the questions, and the answers will tell you a lot about them and the softener.
As to potassium chloride use. All cation (softening) resin is made in the sodium form, none are made in the potassium (salt substitute) form. But all softeners can use either to regenerate with.
But potassium chloride is less inefficient than sodium chloride. Meaning that the higher the salt efficiency of the softener, the more of it you must use by increasing the salt dose; by up to 30% higher/more.
Potassium usually costs 2 to 2.5 times more for the same size bag of regular sodium chloride softener salt.
Potassium chloride is used by some people that want to limit the added sodium in their ion exchanged softened water, without knowing how much sodium is added. The formula is; 7.85 (mg/l) times the compensated hardness gpg of the water being softened. 24*7.85=188.4 mg of added sodium per liter (roughly a quart) of your softened water. A softener does not use any of the chloride.
If you check the label on various foods and beverages you will find many have much more sodium per serving than you would get if you drank a quart of this softened water. I.E. an 8 oz glass of V8 juice, 560 mg sodium. A 8oz glass of whole milk, like 150. A slice of white bread, usually 120-160 mg of sodium and so on.
http://www.awqinc.com/sodium_softening.html
http://www.wqa.org/sitelogic.cfm?id=1085
And do you drink a quart of your tap water a day? Many people do not, they use bottled water and still don't drink the recommended 8 8oz glasses per day.
I don't suggest an RO but rarely; most dealers do just to increase the amount of the sale.... Ask them to prove their recommendation as to the need for one.
I usually only suggest one when the compensated hardness is over 35 gpg or when the person's water contains a contaminate that RO will reduce to acceptable levels. The vast majority of people on city water or their own well water rarely have a proven need for an RO like arsenic to zinc. They just think it is a good idea... but a dual stage drinking water filter is a better choice, because the cartridge filters in an RO do most of the removal of taste, odor and many contaminates.
I am not wild about people using salt substitute potassium chloride to regenerate a softener because you can only buy it in the pellet from, its problem with bridging and recrystallization in the bottom of the salt tank and then added maintenance to clean the tank of the rock hard build up and the waste by having to throw away many pounds of the expensive stuff about once a year. Solar crystal salt is the best choice because it causes the fewest if any salt related problems for a softener and it is always the lowest price. It totally dissolves and very rarely bridges. If it causes a dirty ring at the water line in the salt tank, a wet paper towel or two removes it in less just a couple minutes. That residue doesn't harm a softener, it didn't get into the control valve or resin to harm it, and it wouldn't harm most softeners if it does get into them. And it doesn't get into your water if it does get into the softener. IOWs, it is harmless.