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Answers to your gardening questions (by those in the know!)

 
 
martybarker
 
  1  
Sat 18 Oct, 2008 11:36 am
@msolga,
Hey rose experts....my roses have a strong N,S,E sun and then shade from the west. They are tall and lanky. I assume that pruning them down short will induce a stronger, thicker stalk. When should I prune them, now or in the spring?
littlek
 
  1  
Sun 19 Oct, 2008 08:19 am
@martybarker,
how are your winters?
martybarker
 
  1  
Sun 19 Oct, 2008 03:24 pm
@littlek,
My winters are pretty mild. Our ground rarely freezes(Seattle)
0 Replies
 
msolga
 
  1  
Fri 3 Sep, 2010 07:12 pm
I can't find the gardeners' thread, so I'll post this question here.

It's almost tomato planting time again where I live. Because of lack of space in my rather cluttered garden, I usually plant one or two cherry tomato plants in huge pots. My question (to pot planters) what's the best way you know of to prepare the soil in pots for tomato planting? In the past I've used a combination of bought potting mixture, soil & mushroom compost, then liquid (fish) fertilizer as the fruit develops. Any other, perhaps superior, suggestions?
neko nomad
 
  2  
Sun 5 Sep, 2010 05:56 am
@msolga,
One of the easiest plants to grow in hot climates, MsO ;one plant
is all a pot can handle, like, a single plant grows to a three foot
mound. So you may need to make some space out in the garden
somehow for your extras. You have the right soil - just stand
back and watch it grow. Needs all the sunshine you can provide,
though, like, all day.
0 Replies
 
dadpad
 
  2  
Sun 5 Sep, 2010 07:18 am
How many litres of water would your huge pots hold MsO?

on second thought just use potting mix.
If you buy cheap stuff it will need fertiliser. Osmocoat slow release is probably the best. Mix it in with the potting mix then put it in the pot.
Neko is right about water and sunshine. As much morning sun as possible. A little light shade from about 1.00 pm onward is acceptable. Setting up a shadecloth (25%) screen on the Nth west side can help.
Constant water, like a drip feed system, all day. If you go that way get drippers calibrated for 1 litre per hour.
Do not water the leaves and spray leaves weekly with white oil.

Using (real) soil in pots is, I believe, a no no.
msolga
 
  1  
Mon 6 Sep, 2010 04:17 am
@dadpad,
Thanks for the encouragement & advice, neko & dadpad.
I'm going to get moving on this soon.

I'm not sure how many litres my huge pots hold, dp, but suffice to say that these are the largest pots I could find & I have the perfect (semi--sheltered from extreme afternoon heat) spot for them on my decking. A couple of really thorough waterings a day has worked pretty well in the past few years.

Quote:
Using (real) soil in pots is, I believe, a no no.

What about combining some with potting mix & organic matter like mushrooms? Best to leave it out altogether?
I've never used only "real" soil (minus the potting mixture & organic material).
neko nomad
 
  1  
Mon 6 Sep, 2010 07:08 am
@msolga,
You know, MsO, you could get away with using some dirt right out of your yard for just the one season you're raising your tomatoes. But esthetically a 70 dirt to 30 compost will properly pamper a healthy tomato plant.
Emphasize: good for just the one season; salt buildup poisons that confined bit of earth in your pot.
You see, water is particularly vital for a good yield, and continued use of tap water brings about salt buildup. Apply the fish emulsion after your plant shows new growth.
msolga
 
  1  
Tue 7 Sep, 2010 02:59 am
@neko nomad,
Thanks for your extra advice, neko. Smile

Next task: to find a better variety of seedlings than those tough-skinned grafted varieties which are in every nursery!
dadpad
 
  1  
Tue 7 Sep, 2010 05:20 am
@msolga,
Go for an heirloom tomato variety if you can.

Ox heart tomatoes are interesting.
msolga
 
  1  
Tue 7 Sep, 2010 05:49 pm
@dadpad,
I'll do my best & see what I can find locally, dadpad.
The last (grafted) ones I planted were really not much of an improvement on the thick-skinned, not as "tomato-ey" as they should be shop-bought varieties.
Perhaps a little visit to Ceres is in order?
farmerman
 
  1  
Tue 7 Sep, 2010 06:49 pm
@msolga,
We like Brandywine and Roma as two nice heritage varietoes. I do plant one hybrid called "Mountain Fresh" As an F1 its a gorgeous and sweet-tart tasting medium sized t'mater.

Also, Ive never really liked bucket grown tmaters cause, as I ws told, tomatoes will match their plant and their roots system. In other words, the tmater can grow only aa big as the root system allows, and you need enough plant to throw flowers in order to get nice fruits. I grew grape tomatoes and patios in big tubs and they always (no matter how much TLC, baby formula, and fertilizer we gave em) They always crapped out earlier than the garden grown tomatoes which would grow large and set fruit till October in region 6.
msolga
 
  1  
Tue 7 Sep, 2010 06:57 pm
@farmerman,
Thanks, farmer. (& welcome back from your break. Smile )

I'm afraid I have no choice but to pursue the huge pot method. I really do have a pretty crowded garden! There simply is not enough space for a couple of big tomato plants, unfortunately.

Any cherry/smaller varieties you'd recommend? (I've discovered that I actually prefer the tinned, Italian varieties for my cooking purpose. Tastier & they do job pretty well. So the ones I'll be growing will be for "raw" purposes, like salads.
farmerman
 
  1  
Wed 8 Sep, 2010 04:08 am
@msolga,
We are pretty much in the throes of the seasonal "Wind down" here. Ive planted a fall garden with kale, collards, beets, onions, climber beans, raddichio and endive, carrots and a small run of sugarpeas.
Things all grow quickly now (the soil is still very warm)and attempt to put on seed before it gets too cold (ecept for the leaf crops)
0 Replies
 
Butrflynet
 
  1  
Wed 8 Sep, 2010 11:48 am
@msolga,
msolga wrote:

Thanks, farmer. (& welcome back from your break. Smile )

I'm afraid I have no choice but to pursue the huge pot method. I really do have a pretty crowded garden! There simply is not enough space for a couple of big tomato plants, unfortunately.

Any cherry/smaller varieties you'd recommend? (I've discovered that I actually prefer the tinned, Italian varieties for my cooking purpose. Tastier & they do job pretty well. So the ones I'll be growing will be for "raw" purposes, like salads.


Two tips for you:

Tomatoes need a consistent and regular amount of water to produce the most abundant crop. Mix in a lot of peat or coconut husks with the soil if it is available. That will help retain moisture during your hot summer months. Make use of plastic bottles (some use clay pots for this in New Mexico) as drip irrigation during times you won't be available to do the regularly scheduled hand watering.

Here are some instructions for making them, you'll need at least 3 per pot if the pots are large:

Quote:
The materials you will need are as follows:

* 2 litre plastic soda bottle or water bottle that still has the lid
* Drill and small drill bit
* Sharp knife

Drill 4-8 small holes into the cap of the plastic bottle. If you want it to drip slower use less holes, faster use more holes. Don’t make holes that are too small, they will become clogged up by debris. Remove the bottom of the bottle by cutting across with a sharp knife. I find a serrated knife works well. Removing the bottom of the bottle creates a funnel for you to easily pour water into. The wide mouthed opening will also catch some water when it rains.

Dig a hole next to a plant or in between a grouping of plants that is deep enough to bury at least one third to one half of the bottle. If you position the bottle in amongst a grouping of plants it will be hidden from view. Place the bottle in the hole with the cap side down and secure it into the hole by pressing dirt around it. This will ensure that your bottle stays in place. Pour water into the bottle until it is full. You can add fertilizer to the bottle every few weeks so that your plants are fertilized right at the roots.

You will need to fill your bottle when it is empty, once a day or less depending on how much direct, hot sun your plants receive. Make several bottles to place in all your large containers or next to plants in your garden such as tomatoes that require a lot of water.


Second tip, get some wire fencing material and make a very tall, narrow cage for your tomato plant. This will encourage the plant to grow vertically rather than spreading out amongst your crowded garden. I bought a 50 ft roll of 5 ft high wire fencing material for less than $30 and made a bunch of cages for my tomato plants. The holes in the wire mesh are large enough to get your hand in to pick the ripe tomatoes. Like this:

http://www.veggiegardener.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/tomato-cage-m-m.jpg

farmerman
 
  2  
Wed 8 Sep, 2010 02:03 pm
@Butrflynet,
tomatoes are very heavy feeders of magnesium besides the NPK fertlizers. Into each pot Id add a generous handful of epsom salt
Butrflynet
 
  1  
Wed 8 Sep, 2010 02:18 pm
@farmerman,
Hey farmerman, what do I need to do to get my Brusselsprouts to start sprouting? They were planted in late April, are about 4 ft square in size and very healthy looking, yet now in September they still aren't showing signs of forming the sprouts. Anything I can amend the soil with to help? I give them the same regular fertilizing I am giving to my cucumbers and tomatoes.
farmerman
 
  1  
Wed 8 Sep, 2010 03:36 pm
@Butrflynet,
The sprouts are vegetative bodies that are like little florets. They usually start setting up when daylight passes the midsummer and we start approaching autumn. Also, soild heavy in Nitrogen often have trouble inducing fruits or flowers. Ive seen folks gardens with huuge brusselsprouts with no florets. Maybe side dressing with a 0 -10 -10.

Did you prune the top of the plant in early summer? They always say to snip off the top two inches or so of the plant tip as soon as the first florets start showing on the stem.

I didnt plant sprouts this year.
Butrflynet
 
  2  
Wed 8 Sep, 2010 03:55 pm
@farmerman,
farmerman wrote:

The sprouts are vegetative bodies that are like little florets. They usually start setting up when daylight passes the midsummer and we start approaching autumn. Also, soild heavy in Nitrogen often have trouble inducing fruits or flowers. Ive seen folks gardens with huuge brusselsprouts with no florets. Maybe side dressing with a 0 -10 -10.

Will give this a try.

Did you prune the top of the plant in early summer? They always say to snip off the top two inches or so of the plant tip as soon as the first florets start showing on the stem.
Nope, I didn't know to do that and most of the gardening advice I've read on the internet about the Bsprouts don't mention that. This is the first time I've tried growing them. I haven't seen any florets forming at all, just the big broad leaves.

This is a photo of them back at the end of July. The plants and leaves are about double in size now. No signs of sprouts.


http://lh3.ggpht.com/_z2t3-2ANqrg/TIgFxPtu0kI/AAAAAAAABhY/5V4a3UxmALQ/brusslesprouts.jpg


Should I trim them now or is it too late in the season and I should just pull them out rather than waste any more effort on them?
msolga
 
  1  
Fri 10 Sep, 2010 06:48 am
@farmerman,
Quote:
tomatoes are very heavy feeders of magnesium besides the NPK fertlizers. Into each pot Id add a generous handful of epsom salt


Epsom salts?
I've never used epsom salts before ... OK, I'll investigate further.
Thanks, farmer
0 Replies
 
 

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