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Answers to your gardening questions (by those in the know!)

 
 
msolga
 
  1  
Fri 20 Jan, 2012 01:12 am
@farmerman,
Quote:
.....another hint is to cut away the bottom most leaves to create anairy opening at the plant bottom. Make this as large as 4 to 6 " . That lets the moisture get blown away and it gives the tomatoes a nice free flow of air along the bottoms. SOmetimes if the yelowing is merely iron deficiency (Which I dont think yours is from your description), The airy zone would revive a plant in a week or less.

Done.

Removed all the yellow leaves in the process.

And I've dragged the pot to a warmer spot. Breezier too, so it's getting a thorough airing. Plus given it a (liquid) fish fertilizer feed.

It's looking kinda happy. Smile

No new yellow leaves yet, so fingers crossed!
(Ya never know! Consider this a scientific experiment! Smile Wink )


farmerman
 
  1  
Fri 20 Jan, 2012 06:30 am
@msolga,
if its looking like its recovering then you were just overwatering the poor little guy.

Its good you moved it cause if it is fusarium, youll save your other tomatoes.
0 Replies
 
farmerman
 
  1  
Fri 20 Jan, 2012 06:32 am
@msolga,
I will satrt my tomato seeds oon ground hog day (Feb2). Ive already started onion seeds and parsley and lettuces. They are in the greenhouse where I have the heater set to a low 50 degrees . It chills off at night so keeping it warm then is a challenge
msolga
 
  1  
Fri 20 Jan, 2012 08:02 am
@farmerman,
I will report back on the progress of my tomato plant. Ealy days yet ....

You sound so organized, like you really know what you're doing! Smile
I keep thinking I must find out more about different seed varieties (especially when you Americans talk about them so much) , though I wonder if for my (relatively small city backyard purposes) whether that would be useful or not.
You'd be into mass plantings of various vegetables & for that sort of purpose propagating from good seeds make a lot of sense.
I hope your greenhouse seedlings survive the winter chills.
Is there some significance in starting tomato seeds on groundhog day?
In Melbourne, accepted wisdom dictates that tomato seedlings must be planted by Melbourne Cup Day - the first Tuesday in November.
0 Replies
 
msolga
 
  1  
Fri 20 Jan, 2012 08:09 am
Nothing to do with gardening questions or gardening problems. Just posting to share.
I came across this photograph of a tomato "tree" while Googling & was very impressed. Wow, that's some tomato plant!


http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/aa/Tomatotree.JPG/800px-Tomatotree.JPG
Tomato Tree - Epcot Center - Picture taken by deror avi on October 2005.

farmerman
 
  2  
Tue 6 Mar, 2012 10:47 pm
@msolga,
speaking of tomatoes, mine are wee seedlings that have just cleared their little pots. This yer I put 10 of those expanding peat pots INSIDE a fiber planting box of dimension about 6 X8" , then, as the peat pots are slowly expanding (from a liberal dose of very hot water) I added potting soil all around. This creates a nice plant cube for each tomato plant so I can leave em grow to planting size inside the fiber box and when time for planting outside, I just pry out the little peat pot with all the roots. I saw this trick in a garden mag and if it saves me from transplanting seedlings, Im there.

Ive got peppers(hot and sweet) two kinds of tomatoes (Indeterminate and determinate). Egg plant and several kinds of flowers that need an early start to bloom this year (Perennials)


Tomorrow and the next day will be in the mid 60's so Im going to plant sugar snaps peas, onions, and salad greens like a mix of mesculen and pepper grass and beet greens with a base of deer tongue lettuce. Also Ill add to my spinach that I planted last fall and which ios already up abot 2 " and will be ready to pick by end of MArch , which is waay early.

rhubarb is busting through and the crocus are blooming . Daffodils are gonna be in bloom next week and thats about 4 weeks ahead.

Butrflynet
 
  1  
Tue 6 Mar, 2012 10:59 pm
@farmerman,
I'm jealous. I keep thinking I can go ahead and sow my cool weather seeds and I tell myself to wait until the next new 5-day forecast to be sure. Always tucked into the new forecast is at least one night of below freezing temperatures while the rest of the week is in the upper 30s. We had temps of 70 here yesterday. Tonight we're supposed to be in the 20's and may have snow tomorrow.

I'm real tempted to just go ahead and plant a few and take my chances. I can always sow more later when the last freeze date in April finally arrives.
farmerman
 
  1  
Fri 9 Mar, 2012 03:41 am
@Butrflynet,
ool weather crops as soon as the sopil is workeable. Peas, onions, spinach , lettuces (garden sewn not transplants) will all srvive several frosty events and actully germinate better in the cooler wether.

The Amish around us all start their peas before the snow is melted. They sew the peas right on top of te melting snow.
farmerman
 
  1  
Fri 9 Mar, 2012 09:26 pm
@farmerman,
WHAT is a good fertilizer for peas and whos got experience with using it? I am skeptical of garden links cause many of them dont seem to be written by people with garden experience. One garden line I saw was a word for word clip from one of our local native plant purveyors and that guy is wholly into major chemical warfare.(Im sorta not organic but I try to use natural substances)
Butrflynet
 
  1  
Fri 9 Mar, 2012 10:37 pm
@farmerman,
For the last two years, I've only used a general all-purpose fertilizer when I prepare the beds for the first Spring planting. I have good composted soil and spade well-rotted manure into the soil each Fall. I do use the rhizobia bacteria in the rows when I sow the pea seeds. We had a bumper crop of peas last year and had to have Diane's help in keeping pace with the eating of them.

Here's what the Burpee Seed Catalog folks say about fertilizing peas. I've followed their advice for most of the seeds I've purchased from them and have had good results.

Quote:
Peas prefer a fertile, sandy loam that drains well, but will tolerate most soils except heavy, impermeable clay. Work in plenty of compost to keep the soil friable. A pH level of 6.0-7.5 is preferred. Where soil is very acidic, apply dolomite or agricultural lime.

Don't overfertilize.
Peas are light feeders and don't generally require fertilizer. In fact, too much nitrogen will make the plants develop lush foliage at the expense of pod production and be more susceptible to frost damage.

Like other members of the legume family, peas have a symbiotic relationship with Rhizobia bacteria that colonize the roots of the plants and help them 'fix' nitrogen in the soil. After soaking the seeds overnight in lukewarm water, drain them and sprinkle an inoculant over them just before planting. This will boost the pea plants and produce higher yields.
0 Replies
 
farmerman
 
  1  
Sat 10 Mar, 2012 04:35 am
@Butrflynet,
Ill try the rhizobia . My peas last year were not a great yielding crop and I thought that it was pH. SO Ive taken the pH up a bit with lime.
0 Replies
 
neko nomad
 
  3  
Sun 17 Mar, 2013 07:23 pm
http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/s467/nekonomad2/nekonomad0579A_zpsd9de1c3a.jpg

Gardening season has begun here at 36 Wistful Vista.(photo enlarges)
0 Replies
 
neko nomad
 
  1  
Wed 27 Mar, 2013 11:59 am
A four foot wide new iris bed is gonna go straight down from this view.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v188/nekonomad/nekonomad0580A_zpsadf4067f.jpg

The 2013 catalogue is full of good choices to set in
around about September. August is the time to order.
farmerman
 
  1  
Wed 3 Apr, 2013 05:39 pm
@neko nomad,
ANYBODY have any direct experience with Asian Pears??? (please no links, Im looking for real hands on).
I want to grow some and Im not sure about the possibilities of some cultivars that the nursery has packed as bare rooted. trees.
Several new cultivars are out there and Im looking at those acclimated for us (zone 6.5)
farmerman
 
  1  
Wed 3 Apr, 2013 05:40 pm
@neko nomad,
If youve got some Irises they can be divided and replanted in spring. Theres really no bad time for planting Iris (except of course if the ground is hard as cement).

Butrflynet
 
  1  
Wed 3 Apr, 2013 06:44 pm
@farmerman,
I eat a lot of them...love 'em!
0 Replies
 
Butrflynet
 
  1  
Wed 3 Apr, 2013 06:47 pm
@farmerman,
My daffodils are only now beginning to fully pop out of the ground. Will be another 3 weeks or so before they bloom. I think a lot of the bulbs died during the winter due to long streaks of freezing and very little water.

Latest Spring we've had in the 4 years I've been here.
ossobuco
 
  1  
Wed 3 Apr, 2013 08:31 pm
@Butrflynet,
We are so different! This is not a knock, just that we are. If I saw daffodils in my yard here, I'd freak out.
0 Replies
 
neko nomad
 
  2  
Sat 7 Sep, 2013 11:05 am
Wild strawberries in the yard. A weed I don't mind having around.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v188/nekonomad/nekonomad0590A_zpsbcc5d50f.jpg
fragara virginia (click image)

0 Replies
 
PUNKEY
 
  1  
Sat 7 Sep, 2013 11:11 am
Anyone know how to grow garden poppies in zone 5? Do they have to be started by seed?

It's been a crazy weather year. Just this week I got another bloom on a Little Kim lilac tree, my wisteria vine, clematis, and even on my magnolia tree WTF?? It's been hot and humid here.
 

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