Own a VW Jetta GLX, need "Preventative" maintenance advice

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Bought the car a little over 2 years ago at 45k miles. Car is at about 86k miles now and I'm hoping to keep it running in good condition until 200k. It's overdue for its 80k mile service and I had a few problems (mainly power steering) I wanted addressed so I took it to the VW dealership.

After checking the car over, the dealership gave me a laundry list of things that are wrong (or at least not in perfect working order) with it. I got a really good vibe from the guy there and feel inclined to trust him (which I never feel inclined to do with mechanics...especially dealerships!) but don't want to get taken for a ride (since I'm a girl and all). I also don't want to blow off any issues that are small now but can end up severe down the road if unaddressed. The list really adds up quick and would cost in excess of $3k!!! I'd appreciate any advice regarding the following:

-Right inner CV Axle Boot (leaking grease) suggested it be replaced soon @ $383. From reading the CV thread it looks like this is probably legit and I should replace (should I ask them to show me the leak? And is $383 way too much to pay?)

-Both front upper strut mounts (collapsed and excessive play) suggested it be replaced within 6 months @ $560.00.
-Right side tie rod assembly (excessive play) suggested it be replaced within 6 months @ $520.00 (also would need an alignment with this, obviously, for an additional $90)
For these steering items (strut mounts, tie rod) I noticed noises while turning (no real difficulty) but expect it's a power steering issue...plan to have them do power steering flush and then see if the noise goes away. I never noticed any real pulling to either side, or vibrations, etc. I also thought I'd at least get a second opinion before getting the work done since its so expensive. Thoughts anyone?

-Both rear parking brake cables (swollen badly) to be replaced at $373. Can anyone tell me why this happens so I can prevent it from happening again? Is this even legit? Is it dangerous to have this problem? Something I should take care of now or wait til it goes? Can it damage my rear brakes?

-Throttle Body (dirty), to be serviced and cleaned @ $150. Is this necessary? I've noticed a slight decline in gas mileage and minimally slower acceleration. Should it really cost $150?

-Pollen filter (dirty) to be replaced at $82. Is this really necessary? I don't have allergies and if it's purely for aesthetics/odor/allergy control I could care less. Does it have any potential to damage anything important?

There are several other "standard" maintenance items recommended which I plan to have done and expect are legit. Please tell me if you think otherwise. (Power Steering Flush, Coolant Flush, Brake Fluid Flush)

Any and all advice will be greatly appreciated. I'm sorry for the long list. This stuff is all really adding up and I could really use some expert advice/suggestions.

Thanks!
JL

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I would see about getting a quote to do the first 3 all at once someplace other than the dealer. Why pay for labor to do each seperately since you have to take the same area apart to do each of them. The dealer is probably quoting the book price for each even though he isn't doing the labor 3 times. I don't believe it would possibly cost more than $1400 to do all 3 of those at the same time.

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Agreed....the dealership is a good place to have your car checked out & diagnosed, and that's about it. Find a good independent mechanic, and get the work done there. You should save a ton. Everything on the list sounds about right for a car w/80K.

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Pollen filters ensure that your air conditioning is free of pollen, exhaust fumes and other particulates, that can make driving an uncomfortable experience. Pollen filters are either impregnated with active carbon in a single layer or made with 2 layers; one carbon (anti-pollutant) and one polyester (anti-pollen). Either way, the filter will act as a barrier against unwanted odours and bacteria. Most filters are also supplied with an anti-bacterial spray to keep the air conditioning pipes clean. Its not a bad idea to have all the pipework cleaned as well as the filters as they can harbour germs in odd nooks and crannies but if you are on a budget its the last thing I'd look at.

It may be possible to change this filter yourself or get a boyfriend to do it.

Agree with other comments on steering assemblies

Not so sure about the Parking brake cables but don't want you to run into trouble.

most parking brake assemblies I've had anything to do with have been steel cables. A single cable runs from the brake lever toward the rear of the car. It then splits into a Y with a cable running to each wheel.why the mechanic is telling you its swollen is lost on me. How can a steel cable swell?
Parking on even a slight incline with no parking brake could be a disaster so get it checked by another mechanic cables could cost 20.00?? each. fitting around an hour. Get both done.

sorry the pic is off an older model.

http://theserviceadvisor.com/part/images/products_small/engineparts/m498982241tvn.jpg

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The cabin air filter can be purchased at any auto parts store and is easy to change.

The parking brake cables swelling is a new one on me, and I've been around for quite a while. The casings are the only thing that would "swell" and they are rubber over steel sheath, so it would only be an appearance issue. Leave them alone unless you are physically having some issue with the park brake.

The CV boot will be a problem, but not right away. The fix for CV axles is now to replace the whole shaft with a reman unit.(the dealer will not do this) Less actual labor involved, and the whole piece is replaced instead of going in later for the other boot.
Any good front end shop should be able to to the CV shaft, strut mounts, and tie rod. I might suggest going ahead and replacing the strut inserts, as you will have it all apart at that point anyway.

Good luck.

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Throttle body.

The throttle body gets dirty from the engine gas recirculation. There is a small hose that sends post combustion gases into the intake, I think for emission reason. This post combustion gas dirties the throttle body and the rest of the intake manifold. So when you clean only the throttle body, you solve only part of the problem.

Old fashion carburetor cleaners cleans the throttle body, as well as the rest of the deposits on the intake manifold.

You will first need to remove the large hose going from the intake to the throttle body. (The Intake is where your air filter is.) There will be a large clamp at each end of this hose, and another near the intake, these can be loosened with a Phillips screwdriver. There is a vacuum hose near the throttle body that must be removed from the hose, and there are also two other hoses that need removing from this one. Use a pliers to spread the clamps, and work the hoses loose. Once the two end clamps are loosened and the other three hoses removed, remove this hose assembly.

You now have access to the throttle body. Take a broom stick and use this to push the gas pedal to the floor, keeping the throttle wide open. If you can find Throttle Body Cleaner, use this, but Carb cleaner can work too. Just hold onto that little straw to keep it from flying into your engine! Since the cans normally don't spray well upside down, I managed to lower the can down between some hoses and get it at a good spraying angle. Soak the throttle body well, then use an old toothbrush to brush against any metal surface you can reach. You'll find the brush will quickly turn black. Spray in more cleaner, and keep brushing. This may take a while. Get as far in with the brush as you can, but again, be very careful not to let the brush drop into the engine!

When you're done, fire up the engine, and spray a final burst of cleaner into the throttle body. Ignore the white smoke pouring out of your tailpipe, it will go away once you have the hose reattached to the throttle body. Shut down the engine, reinstall the hose, and you're all set!

This procedure should probably be done once a year as part of your spring tune-up ritual.

Does it sound like $150 worth of work?

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Well said, Dadpad, this applies to most late model vehicles.

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Own a VW Jetta GLX, need "Preventative" maintenance advice

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