Dirty (Iron?) Water out of hot water heater

Welcome to A2K!

Water heaters make great sediment filters. Flush them from the bottom often.

A quick test of your H2O will determine the best way to pre-treat your well water before it enters the house.
Pay particular attention to the Ph and iron content.

H2OMan - Thanks for the quick response. I have drained and flushed the tank several times. It seems that the discoloration is more from suspended materials since the water drained at the bottom is relatively clean, however, when I drained from the top out of the pressure relief, the water was much darker. After draining, the hot water is clean for less than 24 hours. We have had the water tested at the pressure tank (before treatment/filtering), after the filter and softner, and out of the hot water tank. The water at the pressure tank and on the cold side after the filter and softner test OK for iron and pH. On the hot water side, we test high for iron and the water is discolored. We just had the softner installed thinking that if we had marginally high iron that was causing this, it would correct. Was wondering if a defective water heater might be a cause....

You should tell us the exact measurements of iron etc. before and after the equipment and then in the hot water after the water heater; saying that the iron is OK doesn't really tell us anything....

I suspect a rusting water heater where the glass lining may have cracked etc. OR galvanized inlet/outlet nipples if used for the installation.

Re: Dirty (Iron?) Water out of hot water heater


I think it's time for a brand new H2O heater

I am getting ready to replace my water heater and have been researching this for awhile. One of the problems that I have discovered is that when installing a water heater on a softened water system, you must remove the anode rod from the water heater prior to installation. The anode rod is a sacrificial rod inserted into the water heater so that corrosion attacks the anode rod instead of the metal liner of the tank. If the anode rod is left in place, the result is a black discoloration and a rotten egg smell to the water. Unfortunately, by removing the anode rod you effectively void your manufacturers warranty of the water heater. Presents quite a dilemma huh?

I have found several solutions, depending on your source of heat and your water needs.

Solution #1: The use of a "Tankless Water Heater". These water heaters utilize either natural gas, propane, or electric for the heat source. These can be a bit pricey, but they are very efficient as they only heat the water as it is needed and most qualify for an energy tax credit. The manufacturers claim that they can be sized to provide for family sized hot water needs. There is some debate on their compatibility with high mineral concentration situations.

Solution #2: The "Marathon" model of electric water heater, manufactured by Richmond whose parent company is Rheem. These come in 50 and 85 gallon models which cost $599.00 and $719.99 respectively. These water heaters do qualify for an energy tax credit. These have seamless, blow-molded polybutylene tanks that are impervious to corrosion. so there is no need for an anode rod. They are super insulated for energy efficiency. http://richmondwaterheaters.com

Ironically with the current price of oil and natural gas, electric is considered the most cost effective method right now. I haven't fully decided yet but I thought that I would share this information.

There may be another alternative that I have come across. Take the anode rod out and replace it with an aluminum rod. It will help lessen the odor and will not affect teh warranty.

Another, I have witnessed is to remove the rod, place it to the side, and use a plug for the heater. In the event the heater needs service, switch it back. There may be some ethical questions involved here but the owner needs to make that choice for himself.

Andy Christensen, CWS-II

There are three things required to cause a hot water only odor.

A softener is not one of them, nor is softened water. And naturally soft water won't cause it either. It has nothing to do with softened water or a softener.

Removing hardness from water does not make the water aggressive/corrosive. Many water heaters on hard water have this odor problem.

The odor is H2S gas, hydrogen sulfide - it smells like rotten eggs or sulfur.

The three things that must be present are; some sulfates in the water. SRB (sulfate reducing bacteria) must be present in the water and in some cases IRB (iron reducing bacteria) can cause the odor also. And an anode rod made of a material that the bacteria can get a hydrogen ion from.

Remove one or more of those three things and there will be no odor.

To do so you can raise the temp of the heater to 140*f and kill all the various types of bacteria found in water heaters; including Legionella. Or kill them with a disinfectant like bleach, hydrogen peroxide or ozone. A UV light usually will not get rid of the odor.

Remove or change the anode rod.

Remove the sulfates, but that is expensive and requires a softener with special anion resin as a sulfate 'filter'.

The inside of all steel tank type water heaters is glass lined. That protects the mild steel of the tank from the water in it, until it is broken, then the steel rusts quite quickly and easily. That adds iron and or rust to the tank and water and eventually that causes tank failure in the form of a water leak.