Drinking Cape Cod Tap Water Makes for a Wonky Gut

It's a year-round residence. Yes, "the gut" is familiar around here, if not common.

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littlek wrote:

It's a year-round residence. Yes, "the gut" is familiar around here, if not common.

Understood.

If it were my house I would consider this POE system.
I have installed a few of them and they are outstanding.
You can deal direct with the manufacturer and save.

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About the pH - they have acidic water. The web page says the system deals with low pH. Is low pH acid or alkaline? Does it neutralize - would the pH filter deal with both high and low?

Where would they buy it? A hardware store? Specialty shop? The web?

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Two questions, littlek:

1) You said that when on Cape Cod, you now use bottled water for pretty much everything you eat and drink. You didn't say if that solves the problem. Does it?

2) Municipal utilities frequently analyze their tap water for quality control. Have you ever called the utilities of both places for a copy of a recent analysis? By comparing what's in the water, you might find the ingredient that's harming you.

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Thomas - (1) I still get the gut. I shower, brush my teeth, cook non-absorptive foods in it (do use it to cook asparagus, don't use it to cook pasta). This has happened on this property in two different houses. An old marginally winterized house and a brand new house built a few years ago.

(2) this is a private well. They have it tested every other year at a regional, public testing facility. The water I use at home is city water and the city sends out a water quality pamphlet once per year. I use a brita pitcher at home - mostly for chlorine/flouride. Comparing results might be helpful.

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littlek wrote:

About the pH - they have acidic water. The web page says the system deals with low pH. Is low pH acid or alkaline? Does it neutralize - would the pH filter deal with both high and low?

Where would they buy it? A hardware store? Specialty shop? The web?

Low Ph = Acidic/Corrosive H20. You need an Acid Neutralizer to treat this condition.
The Acid Neutralizer goes in the #1 position after the pressure tank and everything else follows it.
You need a 10" x 54" tank and for best results, it should be set to backwash daily.
The neutralizing media is sacrificial and needs to be replaced (re bed) annually for best results.
You can buy them online, but a local independent H2O company would be best.

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H20 - did you see this post? They have a acid neutralizer - it seems to be the same as what you're talking about. It's a back wash system, about the same size. They also have a charcoal filter which my father calls basic.

littlek wrote:

Miller, nah, we ruled that out. I mostly enjoy my time here.

The filter is an Aqua-Pure NBF series residential backwash filter attached near the water heater. It is a charcoal filter. That's all the info I could get tonight without digging into my parents' files. The basic filter it uses is this one: http://www.aquapurefilters.com/store/product/200028.200020/ap110.html?gclid=COvu1IOouo0CFSApgAod7DsJHw

My quoted post might be a little off......

Thanks to you all for being so helpful! I should get my dad on here directly.

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littlek wrote:

H20 - did you see this post? They have a acid neutralizer - it seems to be the same as what you're talking about. It's a back wash system, about the same size. They also have a charcoal filter which my father calls basic.

Those are small, low-flow point of use filters. You will need large, hi-flow point of entry (whole house) filters.

10" x 54" tanks are pictured below. They all have Fleck 2510SE control valves.

http://www.athenswater.com/images/Witherspoon.JPG

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Does this also hold true on the Vineyard?

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Why do I have the urge to shout "Danger! Danger! Will Robinson!".

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cjhsa wrote:

Does this also hold true on the Vineyard?

If you think about it, the worlds oceans are a giant open sewer.
Everything runs downhill and flushes into the oceans.
Coastal areas have some nasty H2O.

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H20 - the filters they use are whole house point of entry. I suppose I could take a photo......

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littlek wrote:

H20 - the filters they use are whole house point of entry. I suppose I could take a photo......

Understood, but they are small disposable cartridge filters - maybe 10" long and 4" in diameter. Like these.

Your H2O issues demand a more robust solution...

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Here is the system, at point of entry. I was giving mixed info.

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i175/Gigipix/Cape%20Cod/capecodwaterfilterpart4.jpg

An image of the info sticker for primary tank (first tank).

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i175/Gigipix/Cape%20Cod/capecodwaterfilterpart1.jpg

The filter between tank one and tank two.

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i175/Gigipix/Cape%20Cod/capecodwaterfilterpart3.jpg

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The Aqua-Pure Whole House Premium Performance Filter Cartridges reduces dirt, rust and sand sediment and rust particles from your water.
It is installed in the Post filtration position.
The big filter with the black control valve on it looks like an acid neutralizer with a Fleck 5600 valve.

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So, which looks like the primary filter?

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littlek wrote:

So, which looks like the primary filter?

The Acid Neutralizer is #1 and the Aqua-Pure with two 10" filters stacked is in the #2 position.

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I only read your initial post, but are you still drinking it, or do you drink bottled water? I won't drink tap water unless it's from a well.

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H2O - my father is considering nixing the whole POE system and switching to a POU system which also filters sulfates. Does this sound like a good idea to you?

Slappy, I use filtered water in the city. My problem is with well water here on the cape.

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littlek wrote:

H2O - my father is considering nixing the whole POE system and switching to a POU system which also filters sulfates. Does this sound like a good idea to you?

No.

A better idea is to supplement the existing POE system with a quality POU system. I would look at a distiller or possibly a real good RO.

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Drinking Cape Cod Tap Water Makes for a Wonky Gut

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