5
   

Car started when jumped, but after installing a new battery it still won't start

 
 
nojonno
 
Reply Tue 20 Jul, 2010 04:25 pm
Hello everyone,

A couple nights ago I drove my 97 Mitsubishi Eclipse to class only to return and find no response but a slight "click" after turning the key. I had a friend hook up the jumper cables and after letting the battery charge for 5 minutes there was still no turnover. I may have not let it charge long enough, but a tow truck driver had a battery boost device and once he hooked that up the car started right up. So I was told that the battery was dead since the car seems to be working fine when there was a boost to the battery.
Now I went to AutoZone and bought a new Duralast battery, removed the nuts and bolts, cleaned the green corrosion off the terminals, set the old one aside and the new Duralast into the carriage. At this point I installed the negative black terminal and then the positive, and fastened the carriage together. After about 5 minutes I tried the ignition, with nothing but a "CLICK" followed by a series of rapid, soft "click, click, click..."

So my question is: What Is Wrong?
If my car works with a jump or battery boost, what could cause it not to work with a brand new battery?
I understand that rarely a new battery could be out of charge, so if I get an initial jump and charge the new battery, will it always hold the charge?

Any feedback is appreciated. Thanks.
  • Topic Stats
  • Top Replies
  • Link to this Topic
Type: Question • Score: 5 • Views: 34,844 • Replies: 25

 
Mame
 
  3  
Reply Tue 20 Jul, 2010 04:27 pm
@nojonno,
That click, click, click sounds like a solenoid problem but I don't know if new-ish cars have those anymore.
0 Replies
 
Mame
 
  1  
Reply Tue 20 Jul, 2010 04:30 pm
@nojonno,
check out this site:

http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Car_seemed_to_be_running_fineI_go_to_start_it_only_clicks_and_engine_doesn't_turn_overi_get_a_jump_drive_it_back_home_Then_try_to_start_it_again_and_it_just_clicks_and_does_the_same_thing
0 Replies
 
Rockhead
 
  1  
Reply Tue 20 Jul, 2010 04:35 pm
@nojonno,
you have a bad connection somewhere.

start at the battery and clean them as you work your way to the starter.

also check your ground cable all the way to the frame...
dyslexia
 
  1  
Reply Tue 20 Jul, 2010 04:37 pm
@Rockhead,
starter/solenoid?
Rockhead
 
  1  
Reply Tue 20 Jul, 2010 04:40 pm
@dyslexia,
possibly.

but the wrecker guy got it to go.

green corrosion at the post means prolly green corrosion elsewhere...
nojonno
 
  1  
Reply Tue 20 Jul, 2010 04:56 pm
@Rockhead,
That's what I was thinking. But the wrecker used a boost to get it started, juicing up the amps, giving the car enough to start even if the solenoid was bad.

I didn't notice any corrosion in the battery carriage or anywhere else.

I am waiting on a jump from my friend's car to see if this brand new battery was sold with no charge.
Rockhead
 
  1  
Reply Tue 20 Jul, 2010 04:58 pm
@nojonno,
a voltmeter would be a good thing...
Mame
 
  1  
Reply Tue 20 Jul, 2010 06:02 pm
@Rockhead,
Jeez, where's the voltmeter when you need one?
ehBeth
 
  1  
Reply Tue 20 Jul, 2010 07:22 pm
@Mame,
upstairs near the air sponge
0 Replies
 
Intrepid
 
  1  
Reply Wed 21 Jul, 2010 03:33 am
@nojonno,
I agree with Rockhead re: bad connection. Very likely a bad cable.

Also, just a reminder to put the positive cable on first and then the negative when installing the battery.
0 Replies
 
wayne
 
  1  
Reply Wed 21 Jul, 2010 03:49 am
That clicking is the solenoid, the solenoid forms the high load connection to the starter. Either the large cables are not making good connection, start there it's cheapest and easiest. If not, the solenoid is bad or the starter is worn out, you may try wacking the starter with a hammer and see if it starts then, solution new starter. That's all after the battery proves ok, once in a while you get a bad one but seldom.
Mame
 
  1  
Reply Wed 21 Jul, 2010 05:14 am
@wayne,
wayne wrote:

That's all after the battery proves ok, once in a while you get a bad one but seldom.


Unless, of course, you bought it at Crappy Tire, in which case, 10:1 it's a piece of garbage.
wayne
 
  1  
Reply Wed 21 Jul, 2010 05:21 am
@Mame,
Mame wrote:

wayne wrote:

That's all after the battery proves ok, once in a while you get a bad one but seldom.


Unless, of course, you bought it at Crappy Tire, in which case, 10:1 it's a piece of garbage.


LOL I once went through 4 starters from o'reilly's before I got one that worked.
0 Replies
 
engineer
 
  2  
Reply Wed 21 Jul, 2010 06:11 am
Places like AutoZone will run a diagnostic test for you for free, right in the parking lot. It will test the battery and the electrical system. I suggest you take advantage of the service.
0 Replies
 
Ticomaya
 
  1  
Reply Wed 21 Jul, 2010 08:08 am
@wayne,
wayne wrote:
... you may try wacking the starter with a hammer ...

Anytime something doesn't work, try wacking it with a hammer. Then wrap it with duct tape.
InfraBlue
 
  1  
Reply Wed 21 Jul, 2010 03:12 pm
When solenoids go out they they do so in spurts and starts. Sometimes they'll turn, sometimes they won't until they just plain won't anymore.
0 Replies
 
nojonno
 
  1  
Reply Wed 21 Jul, 2010 08:42 pm
So the jump did not work. Car still makes a click noise, followed by a small churn in the engine, followed by more clicks.
0 Replies
 
wayne
 
  1  
Reply Thu 22 Jul, 2010 02:48 am
@Ticomaya,
Ticomaya wrote:

wayne wrote:
... you may try wacking the starter with a hammer ...

Anytime something doesn't work, try wacking it with a hammer. Then wrap it with duct tape.


Don't forget the hose clamp.
0 Replies
 
nojonno
 
  1  
Reply Thu 22 Jul, 2010 08:07 pm
@Mame,
What could I test with a voltmeter?
 

Related Topics

 
  1. Forums
  2. » Car started when jumped, but after installing a new battery it still won't start
Copyright © 2024 MadLab, LLC :: Terms of Service :: Privacy Policy :: Page generated in 0.03 seconds on 04/25/2024 at 10:50:23