I have failed to do the regular diary bit, but I would like to relate one trip since there is this thread and I have a deadline and am looking for an outlet for procrastination...
Half of the time in Israel I spent in Nazareth, then a day in Tel Aviv, day in Jerusalem, and remaining half in Palestine. Palestine was, for me, the most interesting. Tel Aviv is thoroughly enjoyable (if a bit discombobulated) city, Jerusalem is, well, impressive, but the whole city feels like a museum. I was looking forward to visiting Palestine, having been mesmerized in the past with the process of building the Wall, hearing about the daily obstacles from the life of friends that live there, I was curious.
Ramallah is, well, like much of Israeli architecture, a dense heap of square buildings scattered on hilly sides. It does, however, has a very distinct center with an old market and bustling cafes. Since I stayed with friends, I simply joined the daily routines with them - my favorite kind of traveling really. Crossword puzzles in a cafe in the morning, meetings with local human rights groups, trips to villages that are part of their work, etc.
I will tell you about one of them. Al Aquabah. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aqabah). It is a small village near Jordanian borders, in Area C (Palestine is divided into areas A, B and C with differing levels of security, checkpoints, etc). Only 300 people remain in the area. Most have moved out to surrounding towns and to Ramallah, since life around here is more than tough. Israeli government has issued demolition orders on the buildings in this area. The territory is very similar to Lebanese landscape, thus Israeli army has training camps here. Three training camps.
We came to Al Aquabah with a group of Israeli and Palestinian activists from the Simon Peres Peace Center, which started mixed football (soccer) teams. My friend Souli is the Palestinian coordinator. Thus we load the car with footballs, uniforms, and other football stuff. The village is nestled in a valley, surrounded by bald hills, everything is hot and dry. It looks like Scotland, but all dried up. You can see Jordan from here. There are some Roman ruins and some trees locals claim come from the Roman times (is that even possible?). Kharub trees, never heard of such. They have either goats or wine/tree farms. Can't have both, goats and trees are enemies.
After the meeting (in Hebrew, which for me means another lengthy meditation session, luckily I am not easily bored), we have the best lunch I have had in a long long time (ok, since Nazareth in Tishreen restaurant, but that don't count...this is home cooking). And surprising, to me. Biryani, which is what you'd commonly get in India as well. (wondering how far this is spread).
The pleasant conversation with local women (one a lawyer, one a teacher) and with the mayor is accompanied by rounds of shooting from the hills. Army practice, normal part of the day. The mayor is in a wheelchair. He was shot three times many years ago during such army practice, one bullet lodged very near his heart remains there forever.
Surreal experience for me. Enjoying the day of an open road through this beautiful countryside, as a tourist being able to go anywhere I please, confronted with the daily reality of these people, who see the sea but cannot go there, worse yet, who are told that they are staying illegally on the land of their fathers and forefathers, whose houses have indeed been mostly demolished and tens of their villagers shot in the last two or so decades.
Not yet worked through my own feelings related to this trip, it's a work in progress. But this was one place I did feel the need to write about, even if I can't quite communicate the whole experience, as I cannot put it in words yet.
The Mayor with Ron from the Simon Peres center:
Landscape looks so serene and peaceful. Yet, air is pierced with constant shooting coming from these hills, now serving as Israeli army training bases:
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