Rainsoft timing out of sync

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The piston on my Silver Series does the following:

1. Backwash for 5 minutes as set.
2. Brine Draw/Slow Rinse for 50 minutes which is normal.
3. Fast Rinses for a short period of time (can't recall how long maybe 5 minutes or less, which is not normal, I think).
4. Gets stuck halfway between 'Brine Draw/SR' and "Backwash' positions for a few minutes, which is absolutely not normal, then goes to 'Refill.'

Maybe the piston is jammed. So I removed the head from the tank. Tried to get the piston to the 'Refill' and 'Service' positions by pulling the piston upwards but it won't budge. Opened the nearest service faucet to lessen the pressure in the tank and the piston easily budged. At this point, I don't know what is wrong. Somebody clue me in.

I thought about isolating the problem by taking the control unit (head) inside the house and plugged it in. Manual regend...then same thing happened. So it's not the piston. I suspect the 2 micro-switches that are located in the main drive gear are not in sync with the 2 switches in the backwash/salt dosage dial, or vice versa. Is there any way to correct this?

At the 'In-Service' position, the 'hump' on the main drive gear is aligned with the 'gap' in the brine gear -- is this normal?

I'd really appreciate your inputs, guys.

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The Silver Series from RainSoft are junk!

No offense intended, but you will be way ahead if you replace it with a metered Fleck 2510 SE.

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Re: Rainsoft timing out of sync

Namor wrote:

4. Gets stuck halfway between 'Brine Draw/SR' and "Backwash' positions for a few minutes, which is absolutely not normal, then goes to 'Refill.'

Maybe the piston is jammed. So I removed the head from the tank. Tried to get the piston to the 'Refill' and 'Service' positions by pulling the piston upwards but it won't budge. Opened the nearest service faucet to lessen the pressure in the tank and the piston easily budged. At this point, I don't know what is wrong. Somebody clue me in.

I thought about isolating the problem by taking the control unit (head) inside the house and plugged it in. Manual regend...then same thing happened. So it's not the piston. I suspect the 2 micro-switches that are located in the main drive gear are not in sync with the 2 switches in the backwash/salt dosage dial, or vice versa. Is there any way to correct this?

At the 'In-Service' position, the 'hump' on the main drive gear is aligned with the 'gap' in the brine gear -- is this normal?

You're lucky you couldn't pull the piston out, you would have had water going everywhere!

You should have a separate brine valve, it is probably sticking. It will be where the brine line attaches to the control valve and a cam wheel pushes it down. That is in the power head.

If you end up buying a new valve, the Clack WS-1 piston, seals and spacers design got rid of that brine valve. The 2510 has the same type brine valve you have now.

The "hump" is aligned right.

_________________
Gary Slusser
21 yrs in water treatment and well pumps, 12 yrs on the 'net helping people help themselves.

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Thanks for the response, gents.

Looks like I'm gonna look for micro-switches -- which are hard to find online. Also, I fried the clock motor by running stranded instead of solid wires from it to the wall adapter. It's still running but emits different sounds sporadically and feels so hot like an iron. Guess I have to look for them at softenerparts.com.

Wish I had a service manual for the Silver Series.

Anyway, thanks again for showing that you guys care for the less-informed DIYers.

Keep it up.

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Re: Rainsoft timing out of sync

Gary Slusser wrote:

If you end up buying a new valve, the Clack WS-1 piston, seals and spacers design got rid of that brine valve.

One of the many problems associated with the Clack is that it's not a direct bolt
on replacement valve for the Fleck based RainSoft Silver & Gold series valves.
Replacing a RainSoft valve with a Clack requires much more work and cost.

The Fleck 2510 SE is a direct replacement / upgrade valve.
A fairly simple job for anyone that wants to do the job themselves.

_________________
WHAT CAN H2O MAN DO FOR YOU?

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Namor wrote:

Looks like I'm gonna look for micro-switches -- which are hard to find online. Also, I fried the clock motor by running stranded instead of solid wires from it to the wall adapter. It's still running but emits different sounds sporadically and feels so hot like an iron. Guess I have to look for them at softenerparts.com.

Wish I had a service manual for the Silver Series.

Anyway, thanks again for showing that you guys care for the less-informed DIYers.

The motor is hot because the valve is stuck. The motor doesn't get hot when it is only driving the clock. The motor has a clutch to keep it from burning out but it will if you keep it running with something stuck not allowing it to get back to the service position. You should have the unit in by-pass, so unplug it too.

As I said above; "You should have a separate brine valve, it is probably sticking. It will be where the brine line attaches to the control valve and a cam wheel pushes it down. That is in the power head. " it is driven by gears and a cam wheel comes around and depresses it during brining and refill. Check it out, a brine valve is like $20.

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Re: Rainsoft timing out of sync

H2O_MAN wrote:

One of the many problems associated with the Clack is that it's not a direct bolt on replacement valve for the Fleck based RainSoft Silver & Gold series valves.
Replacing a RainSoft valve with a Clack requires much more work and cost.

The Fleck 2510 SE is a direct replacement / upgrade valve.
A fairly simple job for anyone that wants to do the job themselves.

Checking my sales data base, I've sold 995 Clack WS-1 control valves as of yesterday. I've had only 21 problems with them and nothing but rave reviews from customers. That's over the last 4+ years.

So I seriously caution people reading this about the mention of "many problems" with the Clack WS-1 by someone that has never sold one and is selling another brand that doesn't come close to the features of a Clack WS-1. And the Clack screws into the tank the same as any other valve does but you may have to change the plumbing slightly for any replacement valve, not just the Clack WS-1.

The "cost" will be less than or equal to that for a Fleck 2510SE.

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The Fleck 2510 SE is a direct bolt on replacement valve - the Clack is not.

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@H2O MAN,

Great info guys! I have a ten year old rainsoft unit that is not working properly (salty water, long regens etc...) I was told that I need an upgraded control unit. Is this wise? What is the cost of the upgrade you refer to? And is it worth the cost or should I just buy a new unit? Thanks in advance for any help!

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@andrew cochran,

andrew cochran wrote:

Great info guys! I have a ten year old rainsoft unit that is not working properly (salty water, long regens etc...) I was told that I need an upgraded control unit. Is this wise? What is the cost of the upgrade you refer to? And is it worth the cost or should I just buy a new unit? Thanks in advance for any help!

It can be repaired if you find someone like me that has the parts.

0 Replies

@andrew cochran,

Andrew, if you go with a replacement valve, like the 2510, depending on what Fleck by pass valve you'll still have to change the plumbing.

If your water was consistently soft before the valve problem, then replace the valve, if not replace the softener because your softener is probably undersized.

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@Gary Slusser,

A 10 year old RainSoft system will have a brass valve and not the RainSoft/Fleck valve. There will be no Fleck by pass valve.
Andrew is better off having the existing system serviced and repaired.

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Rainsoft timing out of sync

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