@McTag,
I wouldn't know where to start Mac. I was only there for a summer. It was 127 most days. And I went through a week long dust storm. We were given salt pills everyday and the M.O. made sure we swallowed them. A stiffo cost a pint of sweat. We lived in tents with sand for a floor. One night we forgot to turn the bulb hanging on a tentpole off and when we got back there were thousands of moths in the tent. Pyeards would howl all night off in the distance. Chesterfields and Camels were 35 p for 200. Beer was dearer that whisky because it cost more to transport per unit of alcohol. The NAFFI Club in Baghdad was like a time capsule. Cool, the click of snooker balls, proper bars with English barmaids, The Times (3 days behind). Outside it was crazy. There were stalls selling melon slices and Coke every few yards. Carts pulled by donkeys driven with sticks ferried ice all day long for them. Large chunks of ice. No tarmac. And the odd American car would go by raising clouds of dust and the horn going all the time. A nightclub with swarthy fan dancers had a bottle of crap beer for a week's wages. It was full of fat Arabs in business suits. Saddam did wonders for the place whatever else he did. The guys who had been to Basra thought it was luxury. Baghdad was about 50 miles from where I was based and I only spent two weekends there. The drive across the desert in a taxi was good fun. About half way there was a ten mile stretch of dual carriageway. It just started and then stopped. The Euphrates was like dilute mud. The base, RAF Habbaniyah, was beautiful. Every road had an irrigation ditch and there was a lot of lush greenery. The evenings were gorgeous. There was a free open air cinema seating at least a thousand and there were bars the full length of both sides. The swimming pool was great. Two of us once swam backwards and forwards in it all night long. The beds in the tent were iron and if your arm touched the metal it woke you up. Will that do?
I got a Thesiger in a swap loan deal with a chap in the pub who scarpered with my paperback Frank Harris. (My Life and Loves--read that sometime). I can't say I rated it but I gather it's worth a few quid. He seemed a bit pompous to me and I don't think he was taking the piss. But you never know for sure. If you like undercover piss taking read Proust. Or the Bard.