3/5 --- Sabato ------Saturday
Slow start. Always coffee or tea and pane at the hotel. Then we stopped at a camera shop and farmacia and back to hotel. It had rained at night, we thought it would be cold but, starting out, it was warm. We changed to remove some clothing weight and then moved on out again and took the Metro. Used to this now, and with the later time it was easy. Got off @ the Colosseo stop. In awe at the sight of it, but we kept going. Walked past the Vittorio Emanuele monument, aka the white typewriter, and over to Largo Argentina. That's a sunken area, old street levels.. with pre Empire temple ruins. Very beautiful, many cats. Or beautiful because of the cats.
Then we went up and around the Via del Corso, passing Piazza del Gesu and Chiesa del Gesu on the way to the Corso. Should have paid more attention according to my guide, Rome Access. Anyway, we went in and out, and I wasn't all stunned with beauty relative to the churches over by via Quatro Fontane on our first day. Next to the church was the Christian Democratic Party headquarters in Piazza Cenci Bolognetti, and then we turned to Via del Cestare, an alley like street with religious vestment stores and nuns with shopping bags, making me blink. edit: I was heavily recruited to join an order of nuns when I was seventeen, wiggled out of it.
Bernini's elephant obelisk in front of Sta Maria sopra Minerva, hard for me to believe my eyes. Didn't go in the church, gothic w/Fra Angelico buried there. Filippino Lippe frescos said to be good.
Then the Pantheon - but first, our most expensive cappuccini yet across the piazza della Rotunda. Pantheon a great pleasure. Open @ top, light washes in, and so does rain. Big portico and columns, tall bronze doors. Very serene space. Hadrian's work, p62 Rome Access for details.
We walked over towards piazza Navona, past piazza di Sant'Eustachio (said to be best coffee there, too late), past pz Sant'Ivo, past Sant'Andrea della Valle; arrived around a corner to see piazza Navona. Whammo. Two Bernini fountains, The Moor by della Porta, its sculpture of the Moor by Bernini, and the Bernini Fountain of the Four Rivers, with pope's mistress story behind it. Also by della Porta, the Fountain of Neptune. Pretty strong facaded church, Sant'Agnese in Agone, by Borromini.
Much ado in Navona in early March.
Went past Theater of Pompey Square (where? what?), Caesar stabbed by Brutus et all there. Then we hit Campo di Fiore, an outdoor market until early afternoon when it empties. Great. Surrounded by buildings with delis and bread shops and cheese shops and over looked by the tall statue of the 'heretic' Bruno. We bought cheese and some wine glasses and wine and bread and went back to piazza Navona and ate on a bench. Didn't know about drinking wine in full view so were circumspect. Then got going again and went to find Trevi Fountain. Stopped on the way at Giolitti.... fantastic pastries, amazing coffee bar, many many gelato pans waiting; supposed to be a good tavola calda. Left umbrella in the bathroom and had to go back and get it - it was still there.
The Trevi was in a small piazza crowded with people happy to be there, fine space.
We went down Via Tritone, shops, over to Via Sistina, shops, and over to the Pincio to watch the sunset over piazza del Populo with many, travelers, likely, and romans - especially teens who all proudly wear flood pants. They like black and gray and purple this year.
Then to the Flamminio Metro stn, off at Circo Massimo, over Viale Aventino to new gelateria/bar for tea, caffe, candy buying, and up to room.
Dinner was the rest of the wine and bread and cheese and, then, candies.Lovely day. Baths. Our nightly baths/showers nice, good hot water, a tub with a stopper. What more could you want with a tired body and sore feet.