Reply
Sat 17 Jul, 2004 04:19 pm
Our 2 yo tortoise shell is peeing on the leather sofa at least 3-4 times a week. If it's not the sofa, its one of the chairs, also leather. I turned one chair upside down and it smell awful and is damp. I have used almost every cleaning product I have including baking soda, bleach, air freshener, oranges, and nothing gets rid of it. She is going to the vet this week and I hope she does have a urine infection and we can stop this and help her. I am at my wit's end,the room smells and we are selling the house. You can't imagine how much coffee I brew when buyers come by.
Thanks for any info.
Sandi
Have you tried Fabreze? If you didn't try it first of all, try it now.
That's a frustrating problem for sure! First of all, if people are touring your house considering to buy it, you need to have all evidence of pets out!
That includes litterbox, food dishes, leashes, toys, etc. Many people have allergies or even "ickies" to pets and even if there is no odor nor contamination, their subconscious mind will lie to them.
OK, back to your problem. The first rule of urine decontamination (or any odor control) is to clean thoroughly. Once cleaned, the majority of the odor will be gone.
Cleaning a sofa thoroughly is the trick. Most of the time the urine is not just in the covering--it is mostly in the batting and cushions.
In the case of leather, it will be well-saturated in the leather, too unless it's a protected leather. You need to know if it's protected or unprotected. If you know, then tell me. I'll help from there.
Also, the older the contamination, the harder it is to get out, and the more stinky it is. As long as that odor is there, your cat will probably re-wet the spots...even when she's not sick.
As a professional, this is how I handle bad urine or odor cases. I am answering the question for more readers than just you.
I pick up the piece and take it to my shop. This lets me work on it for several days in a controlled environment where I can reduce the risks of bleeding, and shrinkage. I can also more effectively wash the fabric and cushions and dry them with my professional fans and giant dehumidifier. It also lets me know whether I killed the odor or not.
(You might have noticed that when you apply a deodorizer to a spot, it seems the odor is gone, but then you smell it again in a few days).
Now, to do an effective job on your own, you should try to mimick the professional as much as is reasonable. And let me add right now that you should call a pro for this--especially since you've been unsucessful so far. I can probably help you find an expert in your area, since I personally know many across the US.
OK, first of all, remember that you should never remove and wash the covers. They will shrink, and you will not get them back on the cushions, or they will take on a weird shape.
Know what the fabric and cushions/stuffing is made of. Test for bleeding (though bleeding may not matter if removing the odor is most important) and shrinkage.
Note: the sewn-in tag on the furniture DOES NOT tell you what the fabric is made of. It tells you what the stuffing is, however.
Assuming the fabric is safe to wash:
If you have foam rubber cushions, they can be washed with water, squeezed out, rinsed, squeezed, and apply a waterbased deodorizer--heavily. You may open the zipper to more easily get the deodorizer solution into the cushion. Put in a plastic trash can liner and let it sit for at least an hour. This keeps it wet so the deodorizer works.
After that, rinse and squeeze, rinse and squeeze. Dry in the sun preferably on a non-humid day.
If the urine is on parts of the sofa that you can't wash (the body) then you will need a "steam" carpet cleaner (that is, one which does NOT actually create real steam). You will have to use the handheld upholstery tool, and rinse rinse, rinse with warm water, taking care to make lots of dry vacuum strokes between. You want to rinse out as much urine from teh batting as possible, but you don't want to cause overwetting and thus mildew (this is why I recommend a pro who really knows his stuff, and takes the piece to his shop).
There are ways you can deodorize without all the rinsing, but then you'd be soaking your furniture and stuffing with chemicals, and leaving them there. This is not healthy, in my opinion.
Oh, keep in mind that urine is a complex stain. You have odor, water-and oil-based soil, plus salt, plus ureachrome dyes. What I've tried to approach here is mostly the soil and odor. The other items, especially on leather are further problems.
General Tsao
SCoates wrote:Have you tried Fabreze? If you didn't try it first of all, try it now.
You should use multiple chemical with extreme caution. Especially when chlorine bleach was in the picture.
You should never mix chemicals!
If you want to try Febreeze, please read the label directions and thoroughly rinse the area first to remove other chemicals.
A recomend using as many varied chemicals as possible, especially on the leather.
I don't know about cat urine on furniture, but Nature's Miracle (sold in pet stores) did a wonderful job eliminating odor from the urine an elderly dog dribbled on the rug.
I second Nature's Miracle.
Nature's Miracle is an enzyme product. Basically, what this means is that it's a bottle of bacteria which "eat" organic substances such as urine and feces.
These bacteria secrete enzymes in order to digest their food.
So, when using enzyme products (which are generally effective, btw), just know that they are not "safe" because they are "natural." E-coli is natural, too, but certainly not safe.
My recommendation when using any enzyme product is to wear vinyl, rubber, or latex gloves and do not atomize (spray) the product.
If you choose to use this on your leather (I don't recommend that you do!), you will have to spray it, so wear a respirator. You don't want to inhale bacteria!
One of the reasons I don't recommend using enzymes on furniture is that you have to sit on that furniture, and unless you do a thorough washing after treatment, you will be sitting in a large quantity of bacteria.
For carpeting, it's a different story since you don't usually sit on the carpet (unless you have little children or pets, then I don't recommend using enzymes either).
What type of leather do you have? Protected? Aniline? Suede? Nubuck?
General Tsao
Leather Sofa
I would love to know how to get the odor out of the leather sofa....I have unprotected leather. PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!
GeneralTsao wrote:That's a frustrating problem for sure! First of all, if people are touring your house considering to buy it, you need to have all evidence of pets out!
That includes litterbox, food dishes, leashes, toys, etc. Many people have allergies or even "ickies" to pets and even if there is no odor nor contamination, their subconscious mind will lie to them.
OK, back to your problem. The first rule of urine decontamination (or any odor control) is to clean thoroughly. Once cleaned, the majority of the odor will be gone.
Cleaning a sofa thoroughly is the trick. Most of the time the urine is not just in the covering--it is mostly in the batting and cushions.
In the case of leather, it will be well-saturated in the leather, too unless it's a protected leather. You need to know if it's protected or unprotected. If you know, then tell me. I'll help from there.
Also, the older the contamination, the harder it is to get out, and the more stinky it is. As long as that odor is there, your cat will probably re-wet the spots...even when she's not sick.
As a professional, this is how I handle bad urine or odor cases. I am answering the question for more readers than just you.
I pick up the piece and take it to my shop. This lets me work on it for several days in a controlled environment where I can reduce the risks of bleeding, and shrinkage. I can also more effectively wash the fabric and cushions and dry them with my professional fans and giant dehumidifier. It also lets me know whether I killed the odor or not.
(You might have noticed that when you apply a deodorizer to a spot, it seems the odor is gone, but then you smell it again in a few days).
Now, to do an effective job on your own, you should try to mimick the professional as much as is reasonable. And let me add right now that you should call a pro for this--especially since you've been unsucessful so far. I can probably help you find an expert in your area, since I personally know many across the US.
OK, first of all, remember that you should never remove and wash the covers. They will shrink, and you will not get them back on the cushions, or they will take on a weird shape.
Know what the fabric and cushions/stuffing is made of. Test for bleeding (though bleeding may not matter if removing the odor is most important) and shrinkage.
Note: the sewn-in tag on the furniture DOES NOT tell you what the fabric is made of. It tells you what the stuffing is, however.
Assuming the fabric is safe to wash:
If you have foam rubber cushions, they can be washed with water, squeezed out, rinsed, squeezed, and apply a waterbased deodorizer--heavily. You may open the zipper to more easily get the deodorizer solution into the cushion. Put in a plastic trash can liner and let it sit for at least an hour. This keeps it wet so the deodorizer works.
After that, rinse and squeeze, rinse and squeeze. Dry in the sun preferably on a non-humid day.
If the urine is on parts of the sofa that you can't wash (the body) then you will need a "steam" carpet cleaner (that is, one which does NOT actually create real steam). You will have to use the handheld upholstery tool, and rinse rinse, rinse with warm water, taking care to make lots of dry vacuum strokes between. You want to rinse out as much urine from teh batting as possible, but you don't want to cause overwetting and thus mildew (this is why I recommend a pro who really knows his stuff, and takes the piece to his shop).
There are ways you can deodorize without all the rinsing, but then you'd be soaking your furniture and stuffing with chemicals, and leaving them there. This is not healthy, in my opinion.
Oh, keep in mind that urine is a complex stain. You have odor, water-and oil-based soil, plus salt, plus ureachrome dyes. What I've tried to approach here is mostly the soil and odor. The other items, especially on leather are further problems.
General Tsao
<<I would love to know how to get the odor out of the leather sofa....I have unprotected leather. PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!!!!!! >>
What kind of odor? Is your problem cat pee, too?
What kind of leather? Nubuck? Aniline? Wax or oil pullup? Suede?
What treatments were done to the leather? Did you have any protector or sealant applied when you got it?
Does the stain have a color, or did it discolor the leather?
Do you mind if the leather becomes discolored with cleaning?
General Tsao
I contacted Seamens, that were I got the sofa from, and all they could tell me is that its 100% top grain Italian leather and that it is untreated. I don't have a stain that I could see...the problem is that my cat accidently got locked in the living room overnight...so she decided to do her business on the sofa...she ended up peeing on a cushion which we just discarded...and we cleaned the poop but it still stinks! I am clueless on how to get the odor out. If you could help if would be appreciated.
joebone79 wrote:I contacted Seamens, that were I got the sofa from, and all they could tell me is that its 100% top grain Italian leather and that it is untreated. I don't have a stain that I could see...the problem is that my cat accidently got locked in the living room overnight...so she decided to do her business on the sofa...she ended up peeing on a cushion which we just discarded...and we cleaned the poop but it still stinks! I am clueless on how to get the odor out. If you could help if would be appreciated.
Can you describe the piece to me? I know the manufacturer told you "Untreated," but "untreated doesn't say a whole lot.
What color is your leather? Would you describe it as natural colored and natural looking? Or does it look like a vinyl product might be able to mimick it?
If you bought this piece new, it should have had some documentation with it. It should have info regarding whether it is Protected, Aniline, Nubuck, or Suede leather. It should have also had some basic care instructions.
You might find a care label on the deck (under the cushions, if they are removable).
When I have a better idea what the piece is made of, I can help you more.
General Tsao
We can see that the only solution now is to throw away a £1000 recliner that she has ruined. We just cant get the smell out, the wood is wet, the leather stinks and the cushion under the seat has been ripped out and above that it is ruined as well. We don't have Natures Miracle here in England and so this is the only solution.
Now I worry about taking her to our new home in USA when this house sells. She may start doing it again.
She was diagnosed as having crystals in her urine and will be starting the special food soon, we pray this works. Her brother is fine and does not ruin a thing, he is a joy to have around. She is a heartache and hubby is now thinking of leaving her here in the UK and just taking him. That makes me fill up just thinking about it,,,,,,,,but................ I just dont know what else to do.
If you're moving to the US, it would be costly to move the recliner, right?
Perhaps this is just an opportunity to buy something new once you get moved.
If you're intent on keeping the recliner, and it cost 1000 pounds (I don't have the litte "L" key), it might be worthwhile to hire a pro to deodorize it.
Nature's Miracle is just an enzyme (bacteria) deodorizer. Very common. I'm quite certain you can find an equivalent product in your neck of the woods. Perhaps a pet shop would carry something similar.
Rule #1 to deodorization is cleaning. If you clean something, you remove most of its odor.
Also remember that one treatment may not be enough. Your cat has applied several of her "treatments" so you may have to apply several corrective ones.
Regarding the wood parts. You will have to clean them, deodorize, clean, dry, then paint with an alcohol-based shellac to seal the residual odor inside the wood. This does work. Of course, if you can't access the wooden parts, disassembly by an upholsterer may be required.
Many times, the frame of the furniture is more expensive than the covering. Many of my customers recover their furniture rather than replace it.
This might be an option for you. Look into it.
General Tsao
Sandikan wrote:We can see that the only solution now is to throw away a £1000 recliner that she has ruined. We just cant get the smell out, the wood is wet, the leather stinks and the cushion under the seat has been ripped out and above that it is ruined as well. We don't have Natures Miracle here in England and so this is the only solution.
Now I worry about taking her to our new home in USA when this house sells. She may start doing it again.
She was diagnosed as having crystals in her urine and will be starting the special food soon, we pray this works. Her brother is fine and does not ruin a thing, he is a joy to have around. She is a heartache and hubby is now thinking of leaving her here in the UK and just taking him. That makes me fill up just thinking about it,,,,,,,,but................ I just dont know what else to do.
?cat pee? soaked wood floor
We just bought a house and when I began to remove the carpet, a horrible smell permeated the room. Two corners of the carpet were stained deep yellow and the plywood floor was stained as well. I'm guessing from the smell that its years and years (she owned it for 14) of cat pee. The capet is gone, and I washed and even sanded down the wood, but it still smells. We are laying a wood laminate floor this coming weekend and I need to resolve this as soon as possible. Any solutions? I am planing on trying nature's miracle after reading the forum, but am nervous about putting bacteria on wood and then trapping it under our floor. I'm sure there is plenty of bacteria on the floor already.
Re: ?cat pee? soaked wood floor
lifesong wrote:We just bought a house and when I began to remove the carpet, a horrible smell permeated the room. Two corners of the carpet were stained deep yellow and the plywood floor was stained as well. I'm guessing from the smell that its years and years (she owned it for 14) of cat pee. The capet is gone, and I washed and even sanded down the wood, but it still smells. We are laying a wood laminate floor this coming weekend and I need to resolve this as soon as possible. Any solutions? I am planing on trying nature's miracle after reading the forum, but am nervous about putting bacteria on wood and then trapping it under our floor. I'm sure there is plenty of bacteria on the floor already.
What you've done is right so far. You've cleaned and sanded the plywood, and I assume you've removed the carpet tackless strip. Now do a damp wiping with a cloth to pick up any sawdust, let it dry for several hours or overnight, then coat with an alcohol-based shellac if you can find one.
Your home center store will have a floor sealer for wood.
Basically, what you want to do is seal in what you couldn't wash out. Applying Nature's Miracle won't work very well on permeated wood, so you'll have to seal it in.
Don't forget that you will have odor in other areas--specifically, be sure to check the baseboard by the stained areas, and also the sheetrock. You might want to replace or seal these things before you take on your hardwood job.
General Tsao
PS: Plan on 24 hours for the shellac or sealer to dry. Ventilate your house--this stuff can smell strong.
Oh, another thing--make sure you replace any rotted wood.
Some discoloration is generally OK, but if the wood is spongy at all, be certain to replace it. If you have to replace some, then check your floor joists while you're there. Make sure those are sound.
GT
You can deodorize all you want but if you don't get rid of the cat, it'll just happen again.
I say get rid of the cat.
GT - you are the best - I'm off to the hardware store.
Thank you.