Ok, ok, I've finally made a gelato I love - and it's the easiest recipe yet.
Interesting website, I need to study it more -
http://theitaliandishblog.com/imported-20090913150324/2011/2/8/chocolate-gelato.html
Anyway, the recipe is the second one, Gelato Siciliano, originally from Saveur.
It was very simple, as simple as it looks. I tasted it first, having to, ya know, clean the machine, tasted ok.... and then froze two pints. Tried it some bunch of hours later and it was beyond terrific.
What did I do differently (I always do something differently) - I added 1 tsp of vanilla and 1 tsp (since I still have some) of almond flavoring and, at the end of the churn, about 1/4 cup of chopped almonds. I didn't sift the baking cocoa, having thrown away my sifter several years ago. I also didn't use the very best great chocolate company cocoa - just the cheapest in the baking aisle.
I did refrigerate it over night but think it might not have needed all that long - it was just convenient for me.
It's just like, or near like, the real thing. And didn't involve that whole egg custard business.