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How do you identify a camera lense?

 
 
timberlandko
 
  1  
Reply Sat 13 Jan, 2007 10:45 pm
Camera 1 is a later-model Nikon F, originally introduced in '59 - and the camera that MAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADE Nikon - with standard F36 Rollfilm back and Photomic FtN Metering Finder (the squarish thing on top - the part you look through - introduced in late '68), a manual-focus, match-needle exposure system workhorse of '60s vintage (yours justabout hasta be '69 or '70 production - I think I see the plastic-tipped film advance thumb lever which would put it mid-'69 or later). The last of its direct line, its production was replaced in late summer '71 by the F2 - which used all the same lenses and very nearly all the same accessories - literally catalogsful of lenses and accessories. Yours looks to be in very nice shape. Rugged as hell, precise, dependable, and incredibly modular for its time, the Nikon F through various evolutions and successors was for many, many years, into the 1990s and even beyond into the present day the standard tool of professional 35MM film photography. That puppy, body and finder, depending on configuration, condition, and serial number, if working properly in all respects, is still highly regarded and eagerly sought both by professionals and serious, advanced amatures. I'd say it should be worth anywhere from around $250/$300 (half that if it doesn't work well, less if it doesn't work much) to mebbe between $400/$500 (but that would be exceptional - it'd hafta be damned near "in box new with box and cards" to pull that much). While not a biggie, I note it has the "SofTouch" shutter release accessory - a nice-to-have extra.


The second camera is a very much more recent AutoFocus (mid-80's vintage) Nikon N2020 - a fairly good - if somewhat clunky/quirky - camera in its own right, distant heir to the Nikon F legacy (and capable of using all but a small portion of the original system of lenses and accessories that began with the Nikon F). I'd say its current market value should be in the $100/$200 range - if you can find a buyer. Its no legend by any means, and was an early, not entirely successful attempt at an "auto-everything" camera.

The lens is an Auto Nikkor 200MM f/4 AI, also mid '80s vintage. A very good lens, but not top-of-the-line for Nikon; there are more desireable 200MM Nikkors. By itself, I'd say its market value should be in the $100/$200 range, again depending on condition an serial number. Gotta be pretty special to close in on the $200 area.
0 Replies
 
Ragman
 
  1  
Reply Sat 13 Jan, 2007 11:08 pm
correction
The Nikon F1 with the Photomic Finder is a keeper. Could be worth $300 as a guess, but that would depend on condition (brassing...scratches) lenses and accessories, serial number, functioning light meter and wear and tear on the shutter. FWIW, many experienced shooters would bypass the worn out or sticking light meters.

The Nikon 2020 has a little more value than I gave it credit for, but I think by today's standards of quick responding autofocus camera models, it's frustrating to use. It will hunt (take a long time) trying to decide on what is in sharp focus.

In my McBroom's Camera Bluebook (often a good resource for used camera buffs), it lists that N2020 came out from 1986-1990 (the EU version is called F-501) The value for near-mint-to-excellent condition N2020 for around $175-200, based on a time-adjusted 2006-based-dollar. It does feature a built-in motor drive that'll shoot about 2.5 fps -- pretty good as long as long as there's a fair amount of light or your using fast film as the autofocus is cranky and slow to decide. This too would need a good CLA, as mentioned in my previous note.

The Nikkor 200 mm f4 is a decent manual focus sort of telephoto, reasonably fast and sharp. Your's is likely a newer production model (AI), it can be worth $150-$200 ...closer to $200. If it was the non-AI vintage, then below or about $100. FWIW, AI lenses retain a meter coupling shoe to insure backward compatibility for older SLRs, but have a ridge on the back of the aperture ring that engages the AI coupling lever on 1977 and later Nikons. That ridge appears visible in the views you provide.
0 Replies
 
timberlandko
 
  1  
Reply Sat 13 Jan, 2007 11:45 pm
Definitely agree on the CLA - every couple years or 5-600 rolls of film, whichever comes first, is a decent rule of thumb.

Point of petty trivia - an F1 would be a Canon - Canon's answer to the Nikon F2 in fact, though it first marketed a few months prior to the F2's introduction, but that's sorta nit-picky.

I've been a Nikon user since the very early '60s, btw, and still have and use gear, including bodies, finders, backs, drives, lenses, and assorted accessories purchased anywhere from the late '60s (including a beloved, well-worn -it once was black but now is mostly burnished brass Laughing - F FTn w/Apollo screen) into the 21st Century. Sharpest, crispest pieces of 35MM glass I've ever owned have gotta be the old 105 f/2.5 (bought in '67, I think) and the old 55 f/2.8 Micro (bought somewhere around '70, '71 if I recall correctly) - still love and use 'em. The 105 is perfect for portraits - if you put a modest difuser on it; otherwise its too damned sharp - it'll pick up the shadows of facial hairs on it own Laughing

Sidebar - something I learned to take advantage of long ago was that if you were wearing a film canister-festooned, beat-up tackle vest, a wide-strap web harness holding 3 or 4 sorta scruffy-looking, motorized Fs and F2s (at least 1 with a side-mounted tilt-head potato-masher-style flash unit, and at least 1 other with a BIG lens) ready-to-use, with mebbe a well-worn Leica M3 slung around your neck, lugging a big, well-stuffed camera bag slung behind your hip, and looked like you belonged, everybody - even cops and security - assumed you belonged; you could go damned near anywhere without question or interferrence. The papparazzi just about brought those days to an end - nowadays you pretty much gotta have visible press cards and security badges - along with all the gear - to get yourself into places normal folks reasonably should be kept away from Twisted Evil.
0 Replies
 
Ragman
 
  1  
Reply Sat 13 Jan, 2007 11:50 pm
timberlandko wrote:
Definitely agree on the CLA - every couple years or 5-600 rolls of film, whichever comes first, is a decent rule of thumb.

Point of petty trivia - an F1 would be a Canon - Canon's answer to the Nikon F2 in fact, though it first marketed a few months prior to the F2's introduction, but that's sorta nit-picky.


Sorry..of course, the model is called Nikon F. I can be typo impaired at this time of night.
0 Replies
 
Ragman
 
  1  
Reply Sun 14 Jan, 2007 12:01 am
nikkor 105mm f2.5 portrait lens
timberlandko wrote:
The 105 is perfect for portraits - if you put a modest difuser on it; otherwise its too damned sharp - it'll pick up the shadows of facial hairs on it own Laughing


I own the Nikkor 105 mm f2.5 AI and it's true what you say. I had to use Photoshop or a diffuser filter to soften the portraits of anyone I take portraits of over the age of puberty. I took a portait of a mature person (over 50) and got some dissatisfied looks as every wrinkle and crow's foot showed. God forbid a portait is made with one of a guy who has recently shaved, too.
0 Replies
 
Walter Hinteler
 
  1  
Reply Sun 14 Jan, 2007 12:24 am
I agree with all above said.

Selling lenses isn't a thing to make much money - just for getting rid of it I sold some.

Selling cameras is the same: so I still keep my Nikon F80 (besides, I may want to make some 2x3m pics, isn't it?) and for sentimental reasons my Zeiss contaflex super B.
0 Replies
 
ossobuco
 
  1  
Reply Sun 14 Jan, 2007 12:29 am
Zeiss -

I used their fluorescent microscopes (what we all called them), but don't know about their camera lenses (which would make sense, that they had good ones).
0 Replies
 
timberlandko
 
  1  
Reply Sun 14 Jan, 2007 12:40 am
Zeis optics, regardless of application, are and always have been second-to-none. Fella I know has an old - prolly '60s vintage - Zeiss rifle scope that is incredibly crisp, sharp, contrasty, color-true and just plain all-around outstanding even after decades of heavy recoil from a very respectable gun demonstratedly capable of taking down some pretty damned big game.
0 Replies
 
shewolfnm
 
  1  
Reply Sun 14 Jan, 2007 09:05 am
You guys are absolutely awesome. Smile

Im still chugging on my coffee, so I need to re-read to make sure I absorb everything , but wow! Ya'll handed me a ton of fantastic information at 1in the morning... HA!

Thanks. !


I know that selling old cameras don't bring much, but as people who don't HAVE much, it helps.
Not only that, In fines and fees for business licenses and bonding, I am about 220.00 away from propelling my little business from being just ME to having some employees.
That very business is at a sustainable 800.00 a month right now. With a minimal 2 employees I can triple that income while still paying them, work less, and get my family out of this ghetto.

These cameras WOULD be something I would keep. I would love to do 35mm photography with my Digital photography, but in the big scheme of things.. I gotta get the ball rolling on my income first.

Though I am seriously thinking twice about getting rid of that Nikon F.

It is in perfect shape. Body wise that is.. NO scratches, no dents, and no 'finger wear' spots. I don't know how well it actually WORKS. But I don't see any cracks in the lense, no fog or dirt in the viewer, and all the knobs turn as they are supposed to.

And I believe, the lenses I have fit that camera..

I dunno, maybe I will take it out for a spin before I decide to part ways with what I think is one of the coolest looking cameras I have seen in a while.
0 Replies
 
shewolfnm
 
  1  
Reply Sun 14 Jan, 2007 06:10 pm
One more quickie? Please?

In the camera bag is this lense I have forgotten about.
I cant get the filter off so a picture of the words and lense is impossible..
but it says

No85735812 albinar adg
80-200mm MC macro

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/163/357498598_393106c42b_m.jpg

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/157/357498597_ec849e1657_m.jpg

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/151/357498595_ec777ea0fe_m.jpg

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/158/357498591_5778248bc8_m.jpg
0 Replies
 
Ragman
 
  1  
Reply Sun 14 Jan, 2007 08:13 pm
manual focus Albinar
This is more than likely a third-party mfr lens -- clearly not a Nikon lens, but possibly a Nikon mount.

The lettering, colors, and barrel markings seem to indicate an Albinar, a fairly obscure third party lens mfr. It is a mulit-coated (MC), 80-200 mm, possibly an F3.9 or close to that. If so, it's worth approx $25, or less. It's a manual focus lens. This lens has very little demand so you would be lucky if you can find a buyer. I can't be certain if it's a Nikon mount lens but of course you can check if it mounts to the Nikon bodies (try the N2020, but of course don't expect it to autofocus).

I poked onto Ebay and saw a few for sale. Here a link to one:

Albinar ADG
0 Replies
 
shewolfnm
 
  1  
Reply Sun 14 Jan, 2007 08:52 pm
Yup.

That is what it is.

For some reason the Tiffen filter will not come off the end. No matter, those are only about 10 dollars anyway , but it is frustrating. I cant get to all the information on the front very well.

Ehh.. craigslist it is. Smile
0 Replies
 
Ragman
 
  1  
Reply Sun 14 Jan, 2007 09:00 pm
Sky 1A filter
From what I could determine when I looked at the lettering in your pix, it's a Sky1A filter. This is neutral fliter that provides a little detail in sky shots. It's also useful as a scratch fliter to prevent damage to the lens element.

You're better off leaving the filter on. If you have to remove it for some reason, there are ways to do it without causing damage to either the filter or the lens. If you have any trouble with gentle pressure (lefty loosey, righty tighty), go to your friendly camera store. They have a small filter wrench tool and they can remove it easily.
0 Replies
 
shewolfnm
 
  1  
Reply Sun 14 Jan, 2007 09:03 pm
I was only wanting it for my own use..... Until I looked in my camera bag and saw I had 2.. Embarrassed


Im not greedy... promise..

HA!
0 Replies
 
 

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