What controls the volume?

The 'puter's audio adapter will provide only a line-level signal, nominally a maximum of 2V, in actual practice often much less. This is enough to more or less satisfactorilly drive most consumer headphones and to produce intelligible sound from smaller, very efficient, low-compliance speakers. For an improved listening experience, powered speakers, which incorporate their own amplifier(s) are necessary. Pricing for these runs anywhere from around $20 on up - way, way up.

Just about all computer audio solutions support stereo line-level output, even those found in laptops and handhelds which have only a single built-in speaker. More advanced audio solutions will support multi-channel audio, such as that found on DVDs. There is little point purchasing a speaker setup which is beyond the capabilities of your audio solution. Consult the documentation for your audio solution, or go through its settings and options pages to determine what audio formats yours supports, and in what manner it implements that support.

If your audio solution is capable only of 2-channel stereo, a 2-channel speaker setup is all you're going to need - though a separate powered subwoofer always can be added, and subwoofers often are components of better 2-channel systems. Systems designed to permit their speakers to be used near monitors (Computer or TV) will have properly shielded speakers; don't place unshielded speakers anywhere near your monitor.

Just FYI, the audio setup for my main computer involves sending the optical output (TosLink) from its fairly advanced, upper-end audio solution to a 7.1 channel home-theater-type amplifier, which drives 7 full-size bookshelf-type speakers and controls a pretty authoritative powered subwoofer. The system is capable of several hundred watts of amplification, providing very high, crisp, clear, undistorted volume and room-shaking base. It is in all respects the equal of a respectable home theater AV rig, which, after all, is what it is. Rarely do I drive it hard, but the overall listening experience is quite satisfaciory for even critical music listening. And besides, there's a huge jaw-drop fun-factor to be had through stunning unsuspecting guests and visitors :cool:

Additionally, the outboard full-featured stand-alone amplifier solution affords considerable flexibilty in the matters of audio input and audio archiving. Output from peripherals connected to the outboard amplifier (cassette deck, CD/DVD player-burner, turntable, VCRs, etc) may be directed to/through the 'puter, as well. Of course, such a solution involves all sortsa physical equipment and wires and stuff that generally tends to irritate helloutta wives. Ain't cheap, either.





Sure sounds great, though

Sounds like one hell of system, and your points are right on.

You can really get the audio in/out of the computer in all kinds of ways, yours the TOSLINK ,optical fiber transmitting SPDIF format is a good way.

There are devices that can use USB and have line level outputs. Quite cheep soundcards basically.

There are devices that use the Firewire as a transport, usually using better drivers for the audio than those that come with windows such as ASIO. In fact ASIO can also be used on the USB (in short windows audio is badly implemented (unlike Apple which have done a good job) ASIO developed by steinberg makes sure the audio streams are handled at a much lower level and doesn't interupt from 20 other running tasks on you computer (which windows sucky drivers for audio do).

Or you can go with what the computer gives for an audio analog output , but as mentioned unless you computer is an Apple I would opt for a sound card or a sound deice of some type.


Timberlandko is also right about active (powered speakers) this is the power amp built into the speaker. How much power you need is partly dependant on the speaker. Some have a low resistance which requires more power and others perhaps like your computer speakers require very little.

But you can imagine, the computer is not a power amplifier so you cant ask much of it , so I like Timberlandko system whereby avoid the noisy computer and get the audio out in digital which will be harder to distort, then convert to analog and use either a power amp or built in power amp to go to the speakers.

Currently for I/O to the computer I using a Motu 828 mk II (firewire 8 channels analog I/O @96 Khz with ADAT , Toslink and SPDIF I/O plus a couple of microphone inputs). It's not really meant for consumer type applications, more for recording purposes, but mention it so you can see how the audio goes in and out of the computer can be done in many many ways , you are never just limited to the computer specs unless your syestem is windows 3.1 or something .

That Motu is a helluva performer - overkill for me, though; I'm a big Creative/Audigy fan - have been for years. My primary application doesn't extend to mastering/remixing original compositions and I have no interest in MIDI at all; I mostly just listen to/transcribe pre-recorded material. For years now, I've been in the process of transcribing a massive vinyl, cassette, and reel-to-reel collection of music, assembled over decades, to optical media - a monster undertaking in itself. I've found Cakewalk Pro and Soundforge both to be very handy, each having its own strong points. Getting an LP or tape from back in the '50s or 60s onto a CD with optimally expanded dynamic range, greatly reduced noise, wow, and flutter, and precise, consistent separation, staging and phase tracking is a tedious deal, sometimes taking days to get "just right", but the result is gratifying.

And a great big youbetchya re Steinberg/ASIO - for over 20 years, Steinberg has been the top-of-the-heap in digital audio IMO.


Oh, and thanks, yeah, mine is a helluva system if I say so myself. One thing it does is expose MP3 for the crap it is. I just can't understand how folks can listen to it. At best, a very good MP3 resembles music.

I'd suggest most teenage music listeners are much less discerning than you timber. And so much of it's rap, which isn't really music at all.

What controls the volume?
I have to admit that everyone's advice sounds great - only I don't understand any of it beyond the fact that the CPU itself isn't going to do much of a job.

But thanks anyway.

The simple answer is -

Buy some amplified speakers designed to be used with a computer. (Amplified means the speakers themselves will have a volume control and plug into a power outlet.)

They come in all sizes and price ranges. The only difference is what kind of sound quality you are trying to get from them.

The rest of Timber's answer is about how you can get superior quality sound out of a computer with the proper equipment. I am guessing that isn't what you need.

Yeah, I do tend go a little overboard sometimes, don't I?

As parados suggests, Tomkitten - just get yourself a modest powered speaker setup - you should be able to satisfy your aim for $50 US or less.