WOODWORKING--Lets see if anyone is interested

Mostly ACQ, at least on the East coast.

The reason why I suggest gloves is that for ripping, you're pushing on the wood, and it's very easy to get splinters. Especially with the crappy grades of Southern Pine that are usually used. I find the the splinters from PT wood are more bothersome than splinters from regular lumber. Same with sawdust in your eye — the PT stuff is worse.

Gloves, yeh, I need to make a place for gloves and my heavy apron.

A couple of years ago, another fellow and I retro-fitted all the local ambulances with an automated stretcher lift system. The photo below from Washington State shows the stretcher. The ambulance components obviously can't be seen here. But damn it is a slick piece of engineering.

I bought some sheets of plexiglas for a garden project.Anybody have experience with cutting plexi with one of these Fletcher Knives?
I later found out that LEXAN can be cut with a saw and isnt near as delicate as Plexi

Sorry, haven't worked with either material. Youtube no help?

my troublle with youtube is that one tube lads to another and the next thing, its Thursday.
I found somr of the knives but they look like they take effort and skill with cutters. My last attempts at careful cutting was doing woodcut prints.

Is this a greenhouse project? How much are you cutting and to what dimensions?

When I cut Lexan on a table saw I always make sure there's plenty of blade exposed so the gullets can clear and the teeth get a chance to cool. A jointer set to just kiss the sawed edge leaves a beautifully smooth finish. Lots of times I 45º the edges, too — just the slightest chamfer, either on a jointer or with a block plane. Be aware of expansion and contraction if you're covering large areas — usually the manufacturer will specify oversize fastening holes or "floating" panels to deal with thermal expansion.

Im planning to float them in a channel , a dado with a batten set underneath to take care of any greater expansion. Im planning to start some really funky strains of hops. I dont like hoop grenhoues because theres too much sail area and my farm is on a windy hill and valley.

Im doing 3/8" Lexan, I was told that its sufficiently stiff at my selected dimensions 36X46 panels My design is a 1:10 slope roof set in wood frames (or else a gambrel style).They would have single vertical panels set on a 1X12 X 10 cypress base in a stream pebble channel. The door frame would be an Al Storm .


I dont like glass, we had an old greenhouse (a rather larger )one years ago and it got totalled in a freak line squall in early Fall of that year. It took us 2 years to get all the glass shards cleaned up.


Did you use any special saw blade? One of those with big gullets?? (dont know what theyre called)

IO ya one thanks.

Sounds like you two have this in hand. @hightor - it cuts clean without chipping running the sheets through as is?

I just use regular combination blades, 40 - 60 tooth, as the stuff is relatively soft. Melting can occur (not a meltdown, but enough to leave a burr on the edge) so listen to the saw and be aware of your feed.

Yes, polycarb cuts well without chipping— thin sheets of acrylic are the worst.

WOW, This stuff cuts like Buttah!! Its about 30 cents a sq foot more than plexiglas but its waay stiffer and tougher. I can drill it easily. Instead of cutting dados, Im using Al channels its just as easy and a bit quicker cutting the channels from stock than doing close order cutting into the frames.

Thanks , Its gonna look great. Now I have to paint the frames and assemble, as soon as this damn wind stops.

We, at lumberjocks got together and bought this guy a new table saw.

https://duckduckgo.com/?q=woodworking+for+mere+mortals&t=hk&iax=videos&ia=videos

Have you ever watched this guys videos?

If money were no object… I’d get a Stanley Bailey No 5 Type 11, and a Stanley Bedrock 605 Type 8. Both in pristine original condition of course! Oh, wait! I’ve already got both. !!! Darn, the bad luck…

Years ago I bought a decoy "pantograph" router that was owned by a well known carvr in Cecil County Md. Ive doctored it up to o relly fin carving on interior decorations like corner rosettes for Victorian cabint doors. Other than that its kind of a boat anchor.
Whats the diff on the two planes youve shown? Because my lft hand is all crippled I only use finger and edge planes and other one hand minnies. My main planer is a Milwaukee where I dont have to use my lft hand as anything needed for "feedback" I do have a big-ass 25" wood block (beechwood) floor planer that I can use . I love the way it creates rolls of wood ribbons that are so thin and translucent.
Takes a lotta care though. Ill never store it blade down the curve is almost like the arc of the planet,
I do have a small to moderate collection of Stanley planes(about 10 old timer 5's and up) and old homemade molding planes that I got at auctions and estate sales(about 30). I love cleaning and reviving these dead tools. I can recreate blades from truck springs and 55R carbon steel. I think when some rookie fucks up a classic plane blade they just get rid of the tool or leave it lay around. Those I love.
My biggest love is wood chisels cause I do a lot of dovetailing on miniature blanket chests that I make for family and friends.

The only difference I can tell between the Bailey and the Bedrock is that the Bedrock has flat ears.

The Bedrock was known to be a higher quality bench plane and it cost more money. Sounds like a marketing ploy to me.

This is one of my favorite forum topics on bench planes.

https://www.lumberjocks.com/topics/235737

looks interesting but I guess Ill just have to join up in order to see all the posts about all the many planes. My rule of late is that , if I join on, I gotta drop one. Pinterest has been getting annoying with a lot of its McGyver ****.