WOODWORKING--Lets see if anyone is interested

Not exactly. Tick sticks (also called "joggle sticks") are more for 2-dimensional applications. At the shipyard we'd have to install bulkheads to form the different compartments — lazarette, main cabin, fo'c'sle, chain locker, etc. For a big boat it might require several plywood sheets doubled up and laminated together. Way too big to install and fit in place so we'd use ¼" lauan sheets and tick sticks to get the points of the hull curvature and deck crown, construct the bulkhead in the shop, then lower it into the hull with a chain fall.

I don't do enough of that stuff to actually use one. I just wanted the thread's reactions.

So you would start by drawing lines on the cross beams to establish a perpendiicular??
I assume these were wooden craft? Did you guys ever use any stitch and glue jointing ? I only sailed less than 5 wooden boats and they were all glassed over the luan. The glas tugs and lobstah "yatchs" were pretty much cast as a single unit with most lockers backfitted into the locker spaces like kitchen cabinets. (Or so I thought, maybe not ?).

These were bare glass hulls, nothing molded. That way one hull design could be used for several different types of boats. It was weird entering one of these empty shells, still reeking of styrene, full of static electricity, voices echoing off the hard glass, and establishing a centerline and a few plumb lines and beginning to fit it out. Wooden hulls were different as they were stick-built and and the bulkheads and deck crown would be established while the hull was going together. Cold molding — the "glue boat" —was just coming into use but I never worked with that technique and left the industry around that time. Cedar planks on white oak frames was my thing.

What you're doing sounds a lot like this programme on the BBC where things are "up cycled."

https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b077nzdc

Thank you, Mr. Push — interesting concept for a series.

They put it on just after lunchtime news to catch the pensioners.

Ive managed to score about a dozen old drawing boards that were used in mechanical drawing classes.Im planning to fix em up and put some colored finish on and hand em out to the nearby AMish SChool where the teachers (most of the teachers are but a few years older than the oldest kids). The kids have required mechanical drawing and arts n crafts classes . With these drawing boards they can take em home and do ral world measurements to create garden sheds or chicken coops .They all buy preframed trusses and stuff but need to have a sense of dimenison drawings etc. LAst year we bought a bunch of carpenters calculators for the kids an they get lots of use.

ANYWAY. These drawing boards have lots of goucges and scrtches, Most are fairly minor but several gouges are actual vandalism by rowdies.
Im thinking of expanding the bad gouges and filling them with a powder filler that is usually mixed with water. I want to mix it with a watered down "TITEBOND PREMIUM" since Ill use Titebond in the teeny scratches and mini gouges and then sand em nd paint.

I dont wqnna use WEST products, Im sure that would be better but , that stuff takes several coats and is only sold in amounts bigger than I need.
IDEAS WOULD BE APPRECIATED.

I'm getting material to make a magnetic powered lamp for when the power is out. I have magnets and a light fixture. Just need copper wire and some miscellanies. If it's good enough I will make a couple more.

You get a can of Osmium? you should go get a can full.

Any ideas about my question?

In all my days of absorbing media and words it always amazes me when I see words put together in unique way... Osmium... You have to go to Utah for that stuff.

I'm sorry. I don't.

Are you thinking of "RockHard Water Putty"? It's good stuff, but sort of hard to sand.

We used to use "surfacing putty" at the shipyard. ******* expensive, I know. (That's because it has "marine" attached to it. "Aerospace" would triple the price. "Mil-Spec" would be out of sight.) Anyway, it sands well, but most importantly it dries quickly so you can build up very thin layers.

Ill try that Interlux stuff. We have a West Marine down near NORTHEAST Md.
Thanks Im hoping I can get all the deep gouged stuff all lined up and take a single spoonful .

This last summer, I helped a friend do some repairs on his wood siding. We used a product he'd found, Abatron WoodEpox. Not sure of cost or minimum quantity but it was simple to apply and sand when hardened and he tells me it is standing up well.

Im gonna be ripping several 1X4" X8' into 1X2's These are treated wood (new process). Im plan to roll a contractors saw out on the Parking lot and rip em. Do I need any extra protection? Ive never worked with treated wood myself.

Treated wood isn't as toxic as it used to be but I recommend gloves, dust mask, and eye protection if you're going to be ripping on a table saw. I don't usually bother if I'm just crosscutting a few 2x4's but for an extended operation you'll be glad you had some additional protection.

Yeh, Ill be ripping about 12 boards (I need 1X2's and the yards only had 1X4's)

Rippin times.

You have any ideas what they use today instead of As/Cu ?

Always wear a condom.

A few years back, I had to rip and router about 40 treated deck boards to bring them down to a smaller dimension so they'd match existing boards put in 20 years earlier. I'll be doing the same thing again this year.

I wore a dust mask but that's it (I have glasses so don't bother with goggles). I had no problem working with bare hands. And just last week, I built a big receiving table for the parts department at a car dealership here using 4 x 4 treated legs. Again, dust mask but wore gloves as much as was convenient to prevent slivers. I have no idea what chemicals they are using now but I don't hesitate working with treated wood given a mask.