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Sat 7 Aug, 2004 01:25 pm
hi all,
after coming back off holiday i wondered in detail about what causes waves in the sea,i know its something to do with gravity and the moon but thats about it and why do you get bigger waves in certain areas of the world?
Waves on the sea surface are generated by the action of the wind.
The rougher the water becomes, the easier it is for the wind to transfer its energy:
Since all the other impoerant things are too long (for me) to explain (in English), see here:
Oceanography: waves
Another good site:
Waves
a good book to learn more about the poetic mysteries of the sea is "the sea around us" by rachel carson.
in the book she writes that a wave crashing on the shore began many many miles out at sea. i can't remember the exact amout, but i recall it was impressive-- 1000 miles, maybe. anyway, it's a really good book.