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Hair color and developers strenght

 
 
Claud89
 
Reply Mon 8 Dec, 2014 01:06 pm
Hello everyone,

I am in college still busy studying. I am a bit confused.

I would like to ask for some assistance.

If my client is a level 6 and she just want the color refresh I will then use a level 6 with a 10 vol developer?

So if my client is a level 6 and Im putting a level 6 on with a 30 vol will it lift the level 6 to a level 9, or darken or lighten the 6 thats been put on.?

I seem to understand the 10 vol throught to 40 vol with regards to highlighting hair with bleach, but Im feeling a bit disstrot thinking of using a color and what the end result will be with the different developers.
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vividamnesia
 
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Reply Mon 15 Dec, 2014 08:45 pm
@Claud89,
10V(3%) or less is for deposit only. The lower the volume / % of hydrogen peroxide, means the less the hairshaft is opened for color penetration/change to occur.
Using 20+ on a lv.6 with target color 6 will not be true match to target color 6. It will make the color warm/brassy as the underlying natural pigment will become exposed.
Law of haircolor is: color dose not lift color
A special color eating/lifting & or bleach/de-coloriser must be used to lift prior colored hair by manufacturers instructions of said product.

A higher vol developer, can cause un-necessary damage.
Start looking into "Natural underlying pigment levels" to better understand haircoloring.lv.2-4=dark red,5-6=orange,7-8=copper/yellow,9-10=yellow-pale gold. These natural pigments in all hair need to be factored into your formula & are countered with ash(B/G/N) to achieve most natural results(good to know for mens coloring/no warmth/brass)
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